Day 17: Glen Pass, Rae Lakes, and Woods Creek

From PCT mile 791.0 to 802.7 Total: 11.6 miles 7/9

On my 17th day on the PCT Sierra Section, I hiked up and over Glen Pass, continued down the South Fork Woods Creek Valley past the Rae Lakes, Arrowhead Lake, and Dollar Lake, all the way to the amazing Woods Creek Suspension Bridge, and managed to climb at least partway up Woods Creek toward Pinchot Pass, my goal for tomorrow. I hiked less than twelve miles, but it took me all day, probably due to climbing 1900 feet and descending 3600 feet. Lots of up and down in the High Sierra!

There was still some smoke off in the distant west beyond Charlotte Dome that morning

I woke up early, but not too early, largely due to my big resupply day yesterday. I ate a hot breakfast and packed up my gear, then hiked onward toward Glen Pass, which was only a mile or so away. I knew the ascent would be in the shade, which is why I didn’t bother rushing too much. Along the way I passed the campsite that Vicki and I stayed at back in 2019, plus two other lakes. The first one is in the middle of a talus pile, and it dries up some years, but the second one is in a solid granite bowl, and it has plenty of Brook Trout. So I stopped for a quick round of fly fishing, using my ultralight Tenkara rod. I caught a small one and let it go, then continued on.

It was only a mile to Glen Pass, and all of it was uphill - Vicki and I camped near this pond in 2019 — It was only a mile to Glen Pass, and all of it was uphill

This is the lowermost of the two large ponds south of Glen Pass on the PCT

I caught a Brook Trout in this pond - Glen Pass is the low spot across the way — I caught a Brook Trout in this pond – Glen Pass is the low spot across the way

The way up to Glen Pass was easy enough, as the snow had already melted on this, the southern side. The views of the lake got better as I climbed, and soon I saw other high peaks to the south and west. It’s always rewarding to climb higher.

I continued climbing toward Glen Pass on many switchbacks - this is a view back toward the pond — I continued climbing toward the pass on many switchbacks – this is a view back toward the pond

View southwest from the PCT near Glen Pass, with Mount Brewer and North Guard on the distant right

The sun arrived as I climbed the final switchback on the way to Glen Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — The sun arrived as I climbed the final switchback

I reached the summit of the pass and took a short break. There were a few other like-minded hikers up there, and we alternated taking photos of each other. I took quite a few photos and videos in every direction. Because that’s what I do! I was also here back in September 2020 with my son, and that time the view was ruined by smoke and ash from a wildfire a hundred miles south of here. It was much crisper today.

View looking back from Glen Pass, south and downward to the pond where I caught a Brook Trout earlier — View looking back from Glen Pass, south and downward to the pond where I caught a trout earlier

View north from Glen Pass - the Rae Lakes are in shadow below Diamond Peak and Black Mountain — View north from Glen Pass – the Rae Lakes are in shadow below Diamond Peak and Black Mountain

View northwest from Glen Pass, with high tarns below, and Mounts Cotter and Clarence King, far left — View northwest, with high tarns below, and Mounts Cotter and Clarence King, far left

Another hiker arrived at Glen Pass, just in time to take a rare non-selfie photo of me - thanks! — Another hiker arrived, just in time to take a rare non-selfie photo of me – thanks!

After my second break of the day, it was definitely time to get hiking. Those miles don’t hike themselves! Plus, the next item of business was the remains of the Glen Pass snow cornice. Even this early in the morning it was slushy and soft. My Microspikes would have been useless, so I left them in the pack and hiked onward, using my hiking stick for balance. The trail was like a deep trench in the snow, and there was almost no chance of sliding down into a pile of rocks. Just the way I like it.

Even in early July 2024, the snow at Glen Pass had already become a deep trench - totally safe — Even in early July 2024, the snow at Glen Pass had already become a deep trench – totally safe!

Even this early in the morning, the snow trench on Glen Pass was slushy and safe to hike — Exposed to the morning sun, the snow trench on Glen Pass was slushy and easy to hike

After that, the descent was straightforward, simply following the switchbacks into the basin. There were quite a few unnamed lakes in the high valley to the west, and the Rae Lakes were further down the trail to the northeast. All in all, it was an uneventful section of trail. But with plenty of excellent views and photo-ops.

Looking toward the Rae Lakes basin from the switchbacks to the north of Glen Pass on the PCT — Looking toward the Rae Lakes basin from the switchbacks north of the pass

Looking west up the basin below Glen Pass, with high tarns and Peaks 12595 and 11975 on the left

It felt good to make it down to the bottom of the switchbacks north of Glen Pass — It felt good to make it down to the bottom of the switchbacks, at PCT mile 793

Once I reached the flatter area, there was a creek full of meltwater alongside the trail. I decided to filter two liters of water here. Yes, this was my third short break of the day. I seemed to be taking a lot of them. Maybe I wasn’t taking this twelve mile day seriously enough! But I didn’t care. I hung out in the shade of a pine, reading a book on my Kindle, while gravity did the work on my water filtering chore. There was still an unusually oppressive “Heat Dome” hovering over California, and it was hot, even up here at 11,000 feet elevation. It was even hotter further down, and that was exactly where I was headed. No need to rush into a sufferfest!

Snow melting and water flowing were everywhere on the way down to the Rae Lakes on the PCT — There was snow melting and water flowing everywhere on the way down to the Rae Lakes

View down into the Rae Lakes Basin, with Black Mountain on the left, from the PCT at mile 793 — View down into the Rae Lakes Basin, with Black Mountain on the left

Upper Rae Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail

The Rae Lakes were gorgeous, as always. There is a reason why the park only allows hikers to spend two nights in this basin. JMT and PCT Hikers don’t spend longer than one night, because they have places to go, but the “Rae Lakes Loop” hikers are otherwise. As for me, well, I wasn’t going to spend even one night here. In fact, I didn’t even stop to fish! I did it two years ago, in 2022, on my way back from the Sixty Lakes Basin, so I was satisfied that there were trout in there. The difference this time was that I had to cross the creek between Upper and Middle Rae Lake, and the water was high enough for me to wear my water sandals this year. I didn’t mind, as my feet really needed a wash, and the cold water felt good.

The trail to Sixty Lakes Basin branches off to the left near the water crossing at Rae Lakes — The trail to Sixty Lakes Basin branched off to the left near the water crossing at Rae Lakes

Suddenly, there were plenty of people hanging out at the Rae Lakes water crossing — Suddenly, there were plenty of people hanging out at the Rae Lakes creek crossing

A rocky island in Upper Rae Lake, with Painted Lady across the way, and Mount Rixford left of center — A rocky island in Upper Rae Lake, with Painted Lady across the way on the right

After enjoying the view of Painted Lady to the south over the upper lake, I continued north toward the middle and lower Rae Lakes. The primary peak dominating this part of the basin was Fin Dome, which really looked like a giant granite dorsal fin, still standing tall after the glaciers of the ice age finished their retreat. Vicki and I climbed up on the southern edge of the fin in 2019, so seeing it brought back fond memories. Too bad she wasn’t here right now! But it wasn’t meant to be, as even twelve miles a day was more than she cared to hike.

Reflections of Mount Clarence King and Fin Dome over the waters of middle Rae Lake

Looking south over Middle Rae Lake at Mount Rixford, Painted Lady, Glacial Spike, and Glen Pass

Fin Dome looking impressive over Lower Rae Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail — Fin Dome looking impressive over Lower Rae Lake from PCT mile 795

Zoomed-in view of the cleaved and faceted granite face of Fin Dome

After that, the Rae Lakes were history, but there were at least two more lakes to check out: Arrowhead Lake, which looked like an arrowhead on the map, and Dollar Lake, which was round like a silver dollar. At the northern end of Arrowhead, the trail crossed the South Fork of Woods Creek yet again. I was glad that the crossing was hoppable without putting on my sandals, as it sped things up considerably.

Looking at Arrowhead Lake (10292 ft) from the Pacific Crest Trail at mile 796

Arrowhead Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail — Arrowhead Lake only looks like an arrowhead on the map

Luckily, the water was low enough to rock-hop the South Fork Woods Creek below Arrowhead Lake — Luckily, the water was low enough to rock-hop the South Fork of Woods Creek below the lake

Along the way, I stopped to fish at both lakes, but only had luck in Dollar Lake. I caught a small Brookie, and let it go, as usual. This was part of my research, double-checking the internet sources that I used when compiling my Official List of Trout Types in various bodies of water along the PCT throughout the Sierra Section, cross-referenced to the mileage numbers on the Far Out mapping app on my phone. I thought that my fellow hikers who enjoy fishing would appreciate an easy-to-use reference. Thus far, the internet fishermen I consulted hadn’t failed me.

After fishing, I stopped on the north side of the Dollar Lake for a lunch break. If you count fishing, this was my sixth break today! And this one was the longest yet. I found a great spot in the shade with a fine view of Dollar Lake and Fin Dome.

Dollar Lake appeared at Pacific Crest Trail mile 797 and it was time for a lunch break — Dollar Lake appeared at PCT mile 797 and it was time for a lunch break, after fly fishing, of course!

View south from my lunch spot toward my fishing spot, plus Fin Dome as a bonus — View over Dollar Lake from my lunch spot toward my fishing spot, plus Fin Dome as a bonus

After lunch was over, it was time to hike onward. There would be no more lakes until tomorrow, I’m afraid. What was in store for me was a long walk down a long valley. It was mostly easy hiking, with the occasional stream crossing the trail from the left. More snowmelt on its way to join with the main creek. It was pleasant, but you don’t get a lot of views down on a valley floor. Oh well.

Thanks to avalanches, there weren't many trees in this section of the South Fork Woods Creek Valley — Thanks to avalanches, there weren’t many trees in this section of the South Fork Woods Creek Valley

Easy hiking in the South Fork Woods Creek Valley, but I knew it wouldn't last for long — Easy hiking down the valley, but I heard that it wouldn’t last for long

The miles went by. Until they didn’t, that is. I had heard from several southbound JMT hikers that there was a long stretch of downed trees across the trail. They were damaged by avalanches last year, in the triple-normal snowfall of 2023. There was so much damage to everything in the Sierra that they were still working on a backlog of issues. A damaged forest out here in the backcountry was the least of their problems. The National Parks and National Forest crews had yet to finish working on getting the regular car-campgrounds open for business. Meanwhile, we hikers learned to make do with the conditions we found. By this time, in July 2024, there were already various routes and temporary trails established to avoid downed trees. But they weren’t great. In fact, they stank, and the going was very slow. Backpackers don’t carry saw blades. Extra time had to be taken to find the best side-trail to take, and a lot of it was guesswork. So that’s what I did. Besides taking lots of pictures, of course.

Avalanche debris across the Pacific Crest Trail near mile 800 - you can see the trees that got snapped off — Avalanche debris across the PCT near mile 800 – you can see how the trees got snapped off

There were many well-defined Use Trails winding around between the fallen trees

The avalanches knocked down trees from both sides of the valley, for over a quarter miles of slow going — The avalanches knocked down trees from both sides of the valley, for a half mile of slow going

Peaks 11421 and 12070 mark the confluence of the South Fork Woods Creek and Woods Creek itself

Eventually, the trail broke free and there were far fewer downed trees. The hiking got easy as the trail neared its lowest point of the day, at the confluence of Woods Creek and the South Fork Woods Creek. By this point, that amounted to an awful lot of flowing water, and the park had constructed a footbridge. But it wasn’t just a bridge. It was an extraordinarily light and wobbly suspension bridge made of a narrow steel catwalk and thin but strong cables. I had been looking forward to this all day, ever since my son and I crossed it back in 2020.

The Woods Creek Suspension Bridge is one of the marvels of the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails — The Woods Creek Suspension Bridge is one of the man-made marvels of both the JMT and PCT

The Woods Creek Suspension Bridge has signs warning hikers to cross it one at a time, for a reason! — There’s a sign warning hikers to cross it one at a time, for a reason!

If you don't like heights, don't look down through the catwalk on the Woods Creek Suspension Bridge — If you don’t like heights, don’t look down through the catwalk!

Woods Creek from the Woods Creek Suspension Bridge - it must've been amazing in the Spring melt — Woods Creek from the Suspension Bridge – it must’ve been amazing during the Spring melt

I crossed the bridge while taking photos with one hand and holding my GoPro video camera in the other. Then I went halfway back for a few more photos. Is it obvious that I love this bridge? Yes, I love this bridge.

After crossing it, I sat down on the river rocks on the northern shore of the creek and took a break. I ate some snack and read my Kindle for a while. I watched other hikers wobbling across. Some jumped up and down for fun, while others were more timid and wary. But everyone liked it afterward.

There was a steel stairway on the northern end of the Woods Creek Suspension Bridge — There was a steel stairway on the northern end of the bridge

I decided to filter some more water and take a break underneath the Woods Creek Suspension Bridge — I decided to filter some more water and take a break underneath the bridge

I also checked the Far Out app for camping opportunities in the near future. I was rather tired, and I knew that the upcoming part of the trail climbed steadily for another 4000 feet over the next eight miles, all the way to the summit of Pinchot Pass. The pass was tomorrow’s problem, but I also knew that this eight miles was notorious for feeling like the longest eight miles in the Sierra Nevada on a hot Summer day. It would behoove me to climb at least half of it right now, if possible. I just wanted to use the app to check out my camping options along the way, in case I was feeling wimpy later on. I had a premonition that I was going to get very wimpy.

My break was over, so I put on my backpack and started slogging up the trail along Woods Creek. It was steep in spots. But the best part was that I was able to take yet another break near some incredible granite water slides. Did I slide on my butt? Oh no. No way. These slides were more the deadly sort. Or the type you’d throw a log into, in order to see what happened to it, and if it could survive in one piece.

The Rae Lakes Loop out of Roads End meets the Pacific Crest Trail here at the Woods Creek Bridge — The Rae Lakes Loop out of Roads End meets the trail near the bridge, at PCT mile 801

Looking downstream on Woods Creek at a long granite water slide, near PCT mile 802 — Looking downstream on Woods Creek at a long granite water slide, near mile 802

More water slides on Woods Creek, with a deep pool of clear cold water

Woods Creek continued to cascade steeply through its valley, as I climbed in the sun on the PCT — Woods Creek continued to cascade steeply through its valley, as I climbed in the hot sun

There were a few more waterslides as I climbed, but mostly Woods Creek was in a deep cleft below me. The sun was getting lower, thank goodness, but it was still quite hot below 9,000 feet elevation. One of the closer campsites I saw beckoned to me. I was feeling done for the day. I checked the app and there was a stream crossing the trail, the White Fork of Woods Creek. I decided that this would be perfect for collecting water, as my planned campsite was less than a half mile beyond it. I filled my gallon jug and carried it in my hand for the final distance.

The Far Out App said you could get water here, but climbing down didn't look like much fun at all — The Far Out App said you could get water here, but climbing down didn’t look like much fun at all

I decided to filter a gallon of water where the White Fork Woods Creek crossed the PCT — I filtered a gallon of water where the White Fork crossed the trail

As it turned out, the main creek was flowing right next to the campsite. It figured. But I didn’t care. My goal was to find a good spot for the tent. The first one I found had a great view downstream, and it was now in the shade as the sun was lower than the mountain to the west. I set up my tent right away. As I sat inside to blow up my air mattress I realized that the ground beneath me was still roasting hot. It had been in the sun all day long. I had enough experience (learned the hard way) to realize that I would be overheating all night long in my over-warm sleeping bag, even with the zipper open! Unacceptable. I took a walk around the area, and found a spot (without a view, sadly) that had been in the shade all day. Then I went back, unstaked the tent, and carried it, fully set up with its poles, all the way to the new spot. After that, everything was wonderful.

I found a nice spot to camp with a view, then discovered that the ground was still hot from the sun

I picked up the entire tent and carried it to a new, cool and shady spot just around a group of trees — I picked up the entire tent and carried it to a new, cool and shady spot beyond a group of trees

The rest of the evening was excellent. I cooked my ramen, ate it, and munched on some salty chips and Gatorade, as usual. I marked my map, made a few notes, and looked at tomorrow’s plan. Stopping a bit short of my goal today wouldn’t be a problem for me tomorrow. All was well, as it should be every night when out in the High Sierra.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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