Day 18: Pinchot Pass to Upper Basin

From PCT mile 802.7 to 815.0 Total: 12.3 miles 7/10

I woke up early on my 18th day in the PCT Sierra Section, as I had to climb up and over Pinchot Pass, descend along Lake Marjorie to the South Fork Kings River, and climb yet again to Upper Basin, about halfway up to Mather Pass, tomorrow’s goal. My plan to ascend 3800 feet and descend 2000 feet made me glad that I changed my goals to do the High Sierra passes in twelve mile per day bursts, rather than the fifteen I imagined doing while at home sitting in my armchair. Reality is a stern teacher, indeed!

I woke up super-early as I had a big climb to Pinchot Pass that day, from my camp at PCT mile 803 — I woke up super-early as I had a big climb that day, from my camp at PCT mile 803

In fact, yesterday was less than twelve miles, thanks to me wimping out on that final climb in the sun. I wanted to get halfway to Pinchot Pass, but it wasn’t in the cards. Leaving extra early this morning in the cool weather would make up for it, I figured. And it did! I packed up in the dark and started hiking at first light, and I made good time. I was fully recharged, and the Sierra was beautiful. It doesn’t get much better than that!

View south down Woods Creek canyon with dawn alpenglow, on the Pacific Crest Trail — View south down Woods Creek canyon with dawn alpenglow

Yet another waterfall along Woods Creek as I climbed north toward Pinchot Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — Yet another waterfall along Woods Creek as I climbed north toward the pass

Looking east toward Sawmill Pass and Woods Peak (Peak 12805) at dawn, from PCT mile 805 — Looking east toward Sawmill Pass and Woods Peak (Peak 12805), from PCT mile 805

Within an hour, I was at the spot where I planned to camp yesterday, exactly where my son and I camped back in 2020, when we did a week-long trek from Onion Valley to South Lake. Just looking at the campsite brought back fond memories. 2020 was a very dry year, and California was on fire everywhere. But, other than some smoke, this section of the Sierra was still excellent.

I knew that the trail wouldn’t stay shady forever, and I was right. But the air heated slowly, and the hiking was easy. It was a good smooth trail, and I was hiking strong. The most interesting part of the Woods Creek Valley, photographically-speaking at least, was bright red Crater Mountain. It was obviously an old volcano which had blown its top, and it provided good color in the morning light. There were also several small ponds and lakes in this high basin, including the large Twin Lakes. They were down below the trail, and supposedly contained trout, according to my PCT Sierra Trout Fishing Guide, but I didn’t hike down there to test whether my internet sources were correct. Maybe some other trip, when I had more time.

Reflection of Crater Mountain in a small tarn on the Pacific Crest Trail while heading toward Pinchot Pass — Reflection of dawn-lit Crater Mountain in a small tarn

Shadow-selfie in the early morning as I climb north toward Pinchot Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — Ultra-long shadow-selfie in the early morning as the sun rose over the Sierra Crest

Colorful Crater Mountain (12874 ft) to the west from the Pacific Crest Trail at mile 805 — Colorful Crater Mountain (12874 ft) to the west from PCT mile 805

View east toward the Twin Lakes and Mount Cedric Wright (12362 ft)

Mount Wynne (13150 ft) reflecting in a small pond off the Pacific Crest Trail south of Pinchot Pass — Mount Wynne (13150 ft) reflecting in a small pond a few miles south of Pinchot Pass

Crater Mountain reflecting in a still pond near Pacific Crest Trail mile 806 — Crater Mountain reflecting in a still pond near PCT mile 806

Eventually, the trail curved left and rounded a high promontory. Pinchot Pass and Mount Wynn came into view. I had been hiking for several hours, so I paused for a short break to take photos. I was up above 11,000 feet by this time, and most of the trees were gone. There was even a bit of residual snow on the trail. There was quite a bit of running water in the tundra-like high-meadow vegetation, and I took a prolonged break to enjoy the view before the final climb. Meltwater also meant mosquitos, especially in the morning hours, and I applied some DEET to my face, neck, and hands. The rest of me was covered in light, tight-weave, proboscis-impermeable nylon, so I didn’t have to carry much DEET, and I wouldn’t run out, either..

Pinchot Pass came into view to the left of Mount Wynne

Crater Mountain still looking awesome as I climbed ever-higher to Pinchot Pass on the PCT at mile 807 — Crater Mountain was still looking awesome as I climbed ever-higher, at PCT mile 807

After three hours of hiking, I took a break below Pinchot Pass, and applied some DEET for the mosquitoes — After three hours of hiking, I took a break. I also applied some DEET for the mosquitos

By then, I’d already climbed about 2000 feet, and only had 700 feet left to go. I could see the trail leading onward to the pass. Or at least to the beginning of the final switchbacks to the pass. Which I ground on up, taking photos all the while, as views always get better the higher you climb. Interestingly, there was even a patch of melting snow on this, the southern face, of the pass, but it didn’t pose a problem, like it had for hikers a few weeks earlier.

This is the final climb to Pinchot Pass (12127 feet elevation) on the Pacific Crest Trail — This is the final steady climb to Pinchot Pass, high above the treeline

Looking southeast from the climb to Pinchot Pass, with Mount Cedric Wright and Crater Mountain — View south from the trail below the pass, with Mount Cedric Wright and Crater Mountain

The climb to Pinchot Pass went through a talus section with both gray granite and red volcanic rocks — The trail went through a talus section with both gray granite and red volcanic rocks

Naturally, there was one final patch of melting snow just before summitting Pinchot Pass — Naturally, there was one final patch of melting snow just before the top

Eventually, I arrived on the summit of Pinchot Pass. I was the first one there that morning, although I spied two other hikers toiling up the switchbacks behind me. I took my usual ton of photos and videos (luckily, you see only a few here) while I had the place to myself. After that, there was a regular party as others arrived. Passes tend to collect hikers because we all take breaks there, and then we hang out together, talking about the trail. Good times.

The top of Pinchot Pass, elevation 12,127 feet, at Pacific Crest Trail mile 808

View back south from Pinchot Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — View back south from the pass

View north toward Lake Marjorie from Pinchot Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — View north toward Lake Marjorie

Two more hikers arrived at Pinchot Pass, and I got a rare shot of me that wasn't a selfie — Two more hikers arrived at the pass, and I got a rare shot of me that wasn’t a selfie

Crater Mountain, Mount Ickes, and Lake Marjorie (right) from the summit of Pinchot Pass

Eventually, of course, I had to continue onward. Luckily, the drop between Pinchot Pass and Mather Pass was only about 2000 feet, which was much better than the brutal 4k slopes on the far sides of the two passes. So I was happy to know that it would be a pleasant downhill run this morning, and a fairly easy climb halfway up to Mather this afternoon. Just another beautiful day in the High Sierra!

GoPro shadow-selfie looking north from Pinchot Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — GoPro shadow-selfie looking north from the PCT below the pass as I hiked downhill

As I hiked north from Pinchot Pass, I saw an old glissade-path in a snowbank, but the trail was snow-free — Hiking north, I saw an old glissade-path in a snowbank, but the trail itself was snow-free

Zoomed-in shot of Metal Tim and Little Engine on top of Pinchot Pass from the creek to the north — Zoomed-in shot of Metal Tim and Little Engine on top of the pass from the creek to the north

There was no snow crossing the trail on the north side of Pinchot, so I made good time. I took a quick break at a small meltwater creek that crossed the trail and filtered a couple liters of water. I didn’t want to “Camel Up” with too much water weight, but I also didn’t want to stop too often. Just the same, there was water everywhere up here, and I could have hiked with less than one liter if I wanted to. In general, I wasn’t as pack-weight conscious as some of the faster thru-hikers. I knew my style, and if I carried a pound or two extra, well, it wouldn’t change my plans much anyway.

I stopped to filter two liters of water from a convenient creek north of Pinchot Pass at PCT mile 809 — I stopped to filter two liters of water from a convenient creek at PCT mile 809

Crater Mountain and the highest lake above Lake Marjorie, from the PCT north of Pinchot Pass — Crater Mountain and the highest lake above Lake Marjorie

Looking back toward Crater Mountain and the high lake above Lake Marjorie — Another shot of the north face of Crater Mountain and the high lake

There were several unnamed ponds above Lake Marjorie, and it was obvious that they were icy cold. Snow along shore is always a good sign. These 11,000 foot lakes were still frozen solid a few short weeks ago. Of course, that is why I went home for those weeks, giving the high country time to melt out a bit. I wanted to go fly fishing up here, not Ice Fishing! The PCT stayed above the lakes as it descended, so I didn’t bother trying to fish until it approached Lake Marjorie. And it turned out that my trout info was correct once again: Skinny Brookies. They were hanging out near a small inlet stream, just waiting for some food to arrive. My fly looked enough like a bug to fool one of them, anyway. I let it go, and then I hiked on.

Lake Marjorie (11132 feet elevation) in the high basin north of Pinchot Pass at PCT mile 810 — Lake Marjorie (11132 feet elevation) in the high basin north of the pass, at PCT mile 809

View of the smaller pond just above Lake Marjorie from the Pacific Crest Trail — View of the smaller pond just above Lake Marjorie

I caught a skinny Brook Trout in Lake Marjorie with my Tenkara Fly Rod, and let it go again

The trail continued downhill in a mellow way below Lake Marjorie. There were several unnamed ponds and a few creek crossings. One of them was running a bit wider than I liked, and finding a spot to rock-hop across wasn’t easy. Usually, you can see faint paths where other hikers have walked, either upstream or downstream, in pursuit of a log or other dry-boot route. But this one wasn’t yielding to my inspection. I really didn’t want to take off my boots for such a small creek. Eventually, I found a spot with a large leap, with the landing spot below the starting point, and it was just about as far as I dared to jump with a full pack. There was no room for a running start; it was Leap it or Lump it. So I launched myself out, and I made it! I congratulated myself on my dry feet, until my next step. Ouch! My heelbone was not amused! I hoped nothing was seriously wrong and limped onward. What else could I do? It was too late to undo my leap now.

Up at 11,000 feet, there isn't much in the way of vegetation, as I arrive at the pond below Lake Marjorie — There wasn’t much vegetation at 11,000 feet, when I arrived at the pond below Lake Marjorie

Crossing the many streams below Lake Marjorie, with Peak 12812 on the right, at PCT mile 810

This crossing was much easier than some of the others, which took big leaps to cross with dry boots

I continued onward, and eventually the pain went away, thank goodness. Soon I passed the side trail to Bench Lake, a spot I’d always read about and hoped to visit some day. Then I passed the Taboose Pass Trail junction, which I hoped never to hike some day! I’d heard that it was quite long, and pleasant enough except for the fact that the eastern terminus was down at 5400 feet elevation, which in the Summer meant temperatures near 100 degrees! No thanks! I like my Sierra Trailheads above 9000 feet, in zones where the air doesn’t kill you.

Peak 12812 over a shallow pond next to the Pacific Crest Trail as I descended from Pinchot Pass — Peak 12812 above a shallow pond

Sign for the Bench Lake Trail - I always wanted to go there, but not today! — Sign for the Bench Lake Trail – I always wanted to go there, but not today!

Looking ahead at the next ascent, up the valley of the South Fork Kings River, toward Mather Pass

After some switchbacks through a forested region, I arrived at the South Fork Kings River, where the trail crossed to the western side. Metal Tim and Little Engine caught up to me there. We had met at the Kearsarge Lakes two days earlier, when I headed off for my resupply. They continued to the Rae Lakes that day, and we didn’t see each other the following day. I unknowingly passed them in the early morning today, and they finally caught up. We stopped for a chat at the crossing, and commented that the park’s trail sign was wrong – that it was much further to Mather Pass than four miles. It was more like six. The Far Out app said that there were two good campsites ahead of us, one at 2.4 miles and one at 4.2 miles. I said that if I felt strong I’d try for the farther one, but I enjoyed the nearer one last time I was here with my son, so it was my preference. Then they hiked on.

At the low point of the day's hike, between Pinchot and Mather Pass, at the Muro Blanco trail junction — At the low point of the day’s hike, between the two passes, at the Muro Blanco trail junction

Metal Tim and Little Engine caught up to me at the South Fork Kings River - this is Tim crossing on a log — Metal Tim and Little Engine caught up to me at the South Fork Kings River crossing

With only 2.4 miles left to hike, I wasn’t in a big rush. Sure, it was all uphill, but that didn’t matter. I got out my trusty Trout Guide and noted that there were supposed to be small Golden Trout in this river. I also remembered that I really enjoyed hiking next to it last time, so I ambled along in a mellow way, looking for a good pool that might hold some trout. Mostly it was flowing straight and fast, and it didn’t look like fun fishing. Or at least not my style of fishing. Eventually, I found a spot and caught one, and I was satisfied. Time to hike on!

The Pacific Crest Trail ascends gently alongside the South Fork Kings River through an airy valley — The PCT ascends gently alongside the South Fork Kings River through an airy valley

View of the South Fork Kings River, where I looked for a likely pool to catch a Golden Trout — I looked for a likely pool to catch a Golden Trout, as long as I was here

I caught a small Golden Trout in the South Fork Kings River with my Tenkara Fly Rod, and let it go again — I successfully caught a small Golden Trout with my fly rod, and let it go again

If it weren't a national park, the South Fork Kings River would be a lovely spot for a Summer Cabin — If it weren’t a national park, this would be a lovely spot for a Summer Cabin

When I arrived in Upper Basin, the trees grew small and thinned out, as did the river, which broke into many smaller branches that drained the wide valley. There were fine views all around. Split Mountain, a fourteener, was on the canyon wall to the east. I met one hiker who ventured out here just to bag it, and he was coming back down from the summit. He said the view was awesome, and I believed him. I hiked on, and soon I neared the campsite at PCT mile 815. I stopped to cross the river, which was now more like a small creek, and filtered my typical four liters of water. This would be enough to make dinner, breakfast, and power me up and over Mather Pass tomorrow.

The PCT ascended along the South Fork Kings River into Upper Basin, where I planned to camp — The trail ascended into Upper Basin, close to the treeline, where I planned to camp

White Mountain, Pinchot Pass, Crater Mountain, and Mount Ickes, from Upper Basin at PCT mile 815

The South Fork Kings River was much smaller at the trail crossing in Upper Basin, where I filtered water — The river was much smaller at the trail crossing in Upper Basin, where I filtered water

It was only 5pm when I arrived, but I started hiking that morning at 5am, so I decided that this was far enough. My plan for tomorrow was to hike longer, nearly 14 miles, but most of that was downhill, so I decided that this was far enough. If I hiked two more miles now then tomorrow would be too easy at 12 miles, and I was dead set on the next night’s camping spot. So here I was, back where I camped four years ago. And it hadn’t changed a bit. It had a great view and a few low pines to break the afternoon breeze and provide some shade. I liked it.

My camp in a shady, wind-protected spot at Pacific Crest Trail mile 815 in Upper Basin, near Mather Pass — My camp in a shady, wind-protected spot at PCT mile 815 in Upper Basin, below Mather Pass

View looking down the South Fork Kings River Valley out of my tent door, camped in Upper Basin — View looking down the South Fork Kings River Valley out of my tent door

I was camped at almost 11,000 feet, so I expected it to get cool that night, which I why I picked a protected spot. Even with the “Heat Dome” that had been over California recently, it was cool up here. Last time, in early September 2020, there was ice in the morning, but I knew it wouldn’t happen tonight. So I said “Hi” to two neighboring campers from Germany, then sat down to eat some ramen noodles for dinner. It was simple fare, but I liked it. I updated my notes and map while I ate some chips and washed them down with Gatorade. Since I hadn’t seen Tim and his wife, I decided to wake up early and see if I could make up the missing 2.2 miles, and reach Mather Pass before they did! I set my alarm, then read my Kindle until I was sleepy. It had been a good solid day of hiking, and yet another High Sierra Pass was over and done with.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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