Day 3: Le Conte Canyon to Muir Pass

I hiked through Upper Le Conte Canyon to Muir Pass along the Middle Fork Kings River, passing many lakes (including Helen Lake) along the way, and explored the Muir Hut on top of the pass.

To begin my day, I woke up in the dark, at 4am. I kept my legs in the sleeping bag and cooked some oatmeal for breakfast. I ate, then began the ritual of changing into my day clothes and packing everything in its proper place. I was able to start hiking before dawn, while there was still enough light for photos. It was also quite cold, so I started hiking uphill quite vigorously to build up some body heat. I felt good, and was ready for an excellent day.

All packed and ready to go just before dawn, from my campsite in Le Conte Canyon

Getting ready to cross the Middle Fork Kings River in Le Conte Canyon on my way to Muir Pass on the JMT — Getting ready to cross the Middle Fork Kings River

Panorama shot of the Middle Fork Kings River as I near an unnamed lake just east of Helen Lake on the JMT — Panorama shot of the river as I neared an unnamed lake just east of Helen Lake

After passing a number of minor waterfalls, the canyon flattened and widened enough to host a couple of small ponds. The trail did most of its climbing in between these lakes, which made it fun. I had to climb about 1500 feet to reach the pass, over a distance of 3.5 miles, so it wasn’t overly steep along the way. A typical 10 percent Sierra Grade. I was getting used to this, and the cool air of morning made climbing desirable. It was chilly out there!

The unnamed lake east of Helen Lake, with Crumbly Spires (left) and Clyde Spires (12955 ft) right of center just showing — The unnamed lake east of Helen Lake, with Crumbly Spires (left) and Clyde Spires (12955 ft) right of center barely showing

Stone crossing on the Middle Fork Kings River on the JMT near Helen Lake - Lake 11428 is just above that ridge — Stone crossing on the river just before Helen Lake

Zoomed-in Split Mountain (distant, left), Giraud Peak (center) and Langille Peak (right) from the JMT east of Helen Lake — Zoomed-in shot of Split Mountain (distant, left), Giraud Peak (center) and Langille Peak (right)

I continued climbing into the upper canyon, passing yet another small lake, and finally came upon my first snowbank. The sun had climbed high enough to overtop the Sierra Crest in the east, and it felt good on my legs. The views of surrounding peaks had begin to improve, as well. This is really why we climb in this steep and difficult terrain: The awesome views!

Close-up of an American Pika (Ochotona princeps) (aka rock rabbit) in a boulder field along the JMT near Helen Lake — Close-up of an American Pika (Ochotona princeps) (aka rock rabbit) in a boulder field

Looking back down Le Conte Canyon at the unnamed lake east of Helen Lake - lots more climbing still to go! — Looking back down Le Conte Canyon at the unnamed lake – lots more climbing still to go!

Unnamed lake east of Helen Lake from the JMT, with Clyde Spires and Mount Powell on the distant right — Another unnamed lake, with Clyde Spires and Mount Powell on the distant right

I encountered my first pile of trailside snow at 11,400 feet elevation, as I climbed up toward Helen Lake on the JMT — I encountered my first pile of trailside snow at 11,400 feet elevation

Helen Lake, in the basin below the pass, was impressively large. At 11,617 feet elevation, there wasn’t much vegetation surrounding it. It was truly a High Sierra, granite-lovers kind of lake, one of the last to thaw in the Spring. And, no, on that cold morning, I didn’t bother to test the water temperature!

Panorama view of Helen Lake with Mounts Solomons, Warlow and Fiske (13034, 13206, and 13503 feet elev)

View over Helen Lake with Mounts Warlow and Fiske on the left, from the JMT-PCT — View over Helen Lake with Mounts Warlow and Fiske on the left,

After hiking along the lakeshore, the trail headed for the pass. Only 400 feet to go! It switchbacked its way out of the upper basin, and there were great views looking back down into Le Conte Canyon, which I would soon be leaving behind.

Muir Pass, with Mount Solomons on the left - this is the Goddard Divide between the Kings and San Joaquin Rivers — Muir Pass, with Mount Solomons on the left – this is the Goddard Divide between the Kings and San Joaquin Rivers

View south into the upper basin of Le Conte Canyon, with Helen Lake, left, and the north ridge of Black Giant, right

I had the pass to myself when I arrived. Yet another reason to wake up early and get hiking before dawn! And the views were tremendous, At 11,955 feet, it was about as close to 12k as Bishop Pass had been. There was a solidly steady breeze blowing south over the saddle, which made for quite a bit of wind chill. But that didn’t matter, as I was still warm from climbing. I got out my GoPro and Canon t5i and began a photo and video shooting frenzy. What a great spot! Here are just a few of the many shots I took:

It was still early morning, with a cold breeze, when I arrived at the Muir Hut on the summit of Muir Pass on the JMT — It was still early morning, with a cold breeze, when I arrived at the Muir Hut on the summit of Muir Pass on the John Muir Trail

SEKI sign and plaque commemorating the construction of the Muir Hut, dedicated to John Muir, on Muir Pass — SEKI sign and plaque commemorating the construction of the Muir Hut, built by the Sierra Club

GoPro video from Muir Pass as I explored the Muir Hut

View looking north toward Wanda Lake and the Evolution Basin out the window of the Muir Hut on Muir Pass — View looking north toward Wanda Lake and the Evolution Basin out the window of the hut

Wide-angle panorama shot of the inside of the Muir Hut on Muir Pass on the John Muir Trail — Wide-angle panorama shot of the inside of the Muir Hut – I’ve heard that this does not leak in the rain

Brass memorial in the Muir Hut by the Sierra Club on the NPS centennial, lauding both John Muir and William Colby

My body heat didn’t last. Taking photos wasn’t exactly hard work. I decided to take a long break inside the hut, and I put on a light windbreaker jacket. It was way too early for lunch so I ate some snacks, sitting on some wooden boards near the north-facing window. I alternated between reading my book and looking out at the view. Evolution Basin was down that way, and I’d heard only good things about the entire Evolution Valley, so I was eager to check it out. I looked at my map and studied the lakes and nearby peaks. I made a rough plan for the rest of the day’s hike.

Selfie-shot of me at the Muir Hut on Muir Pass, to eventually send to my friends and family to make them jealous — Selfie-shot of me and the Muir Hut, to eventually send to my friends and family to make them jealous

View southwest of the Muir Hut, with Mount Solomons behind it on the right - a cold, lonely, windswept spot — View southwest of the Muir Hut, with Mount Solomons behind it on the right – a cold, lonely, windswept spot

View north into the Evolution Basin from Muir Pass, with Wanda Lake in the distance and the Muir Hut, foreground — View north into the Evolution Basin from Muir Pass, with Wanda Lake in the distance

Eventually, of course, I went back outside and started in again, taking even more photos. I can’t seem to help myself. I just love being up high like this, where the air is thin, the sky is ultra-blue, and the mountains are sharp and clear on the horizon.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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Up to “Sierra Nevada”

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