Day 3: Glen Pass to Rae Lakes

Day 3: Glen Pass to Rae Lakes

This was scheduled to be the easiest hiking day on our entire week-long trek. All we had to do was climb up and over Glen Pass (we were camped just below it) and descend a mile or three to the Rae Lakes Basin. 800 feet up and 1500 feet down. So it was no surprise that we took our time waking up that morning.

We're taking life easy today, with less than three miles to hike - up and over Glen Pass and down to Rae Lakes — We’re taking life easy today, with only three miles to hike – up and over Glen Pass and down to Rae Lakes

View south on the Pacific Crest Trail looking over a small tarn near our campsite below Glen Pass — View south on the Pacific Crest Trail looking over a small tarn near our campsite

We packed up everything and began hiking uphill in the sun.

We passed the lower of the two big ponds and checked out the small icebergs that were still melting out from last Winter’s snow. The Sierra had received double the normal snowfall, and the highest elevations were barely done melting out even now, in mid-August. No wonder there were so few plants up here above the treeline: Their growing season was incredibly short, being frozen solid nine months of the year. To some, the High Sierra may seem barren, but to us the towering rock made for its own kind of austere beauty. And the plants that lived here were a triumph of biological survival.

View of the lower lake south of Glen Pass

Ice melting in the small pond south of Glen Pass - the water has the pretty turquoise glacial color — Ice melting in the small pond south of Glen Pass – the water has the pretty turquoise glacial color

The Pacific Crest Trail keeps climbing higher as we head north toward Glen Pass

We arrived at the upper pond and took a short break. It was getting warm in the sun. From there, we could see the south-facing headwall of the canyon, and Glen Pass on top of the ridge. We spied a number of hikers, some climbing and others descending the switchbacks on the trail. We also noticed that the trail traversed large patches of snow. We asked one group about the snow, and they said that it was easy, that it was already slushy, so we wouldn’t need Microspikes. And the snow on the north side of the pass was no longer as dangerous as it had been earlier in the season. This was quite a relief to hear, so we put on our packs, got out our hiking poles (for balance on the snow), and began the final climb to the summit of the pass.

Glen Pass is that low section in the center - this is the view from the upper lake — Glen Pass is that low section in the center – this is the view from the upper lake

It was 9am and the snow was already soft and melting, as we made our way north on the PCT to Glen Pass — It was 9am and the snow was already soft and melting, so we didn’t need our Microspikes

Vicki is happy to find some snow to put inside her hat - she swears this is a great way to stay cool when climbing — Vicki was happy to find some snow to put inside her hat – she swears this is a great way to stay cool when climbing

There was still lots of snow on this south-facing slope but the PCT was only partly blocked, so we scrambled a bit

Sometimes the obvious trail went directly over a snow drift, and in other spots the slope was too steep to attempt it, so we climbed up the extra-steep “use” paths that stayed on the loose rocks and talus rather than the snow. You can trust a rock (most of the time), but snow and ice are always a bit dicey. It’s better to err on the side of caution than take an injury out in the middle of the wilderness.

Polemonium Eximium (aka Sky Pilot) Flowers blooming at Glen Pass - they only grow at the highest elevations — Polemonium Eximium (aka Sky Pilot) Flowers blooming at Glen Pass – they only grow at the highest elevations

As we neared Glen Pass, distant peaks began coming into view to the south

The final approach to Glen Pass on the northbound PCT — The final approach to Glen Pass

It took us about two hours to climb one mile on the steep trail to the pass, but we didn’t care about that. Especially once we got there. Because the views were truly magnificent. We posed for some photos with the Rae Lakes down below us, and then took off our packs for a short break.

Vicki and I on top of Glen Pass, 11926 feet elevation, with the Rae Lakes basin in the background

Vicki posing on top of Glen Pass - she was well acclimated to the elevation by this time — Vicki posing on top of Glen Pass – she was well acclimated to the elevation by this time

I took a bunch of photos and videos because that’s what I always do when there’s a view this fine, but I won’t show them all here. We also spent some time talking to other hikers, and helped them take their own group photos. It was a bit of a party going on up there. As a general rule, backpackers are great people, very friendly, and willing to lend a hand. And this was no exception. For the most part, we met up with northbound PCT hikers and southbound JMT hikers. There were only a few like us, who were heading to the Rae Lakes on a there-and-back trek. So we got to hear some entertaining stories of the trail when we wanted to, and had plenty of solitude in the wilderness when we didn’t. It’s all good, especially on a beautiful Summer day.

Panorama view north toward Rae Lakes from Glen Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — Panorama view north toward Rae Lakes from Glen Pass

Once we stopped climbing for a while, we noticed that the pass was also a bit breezy and cool. So we put away our snacks and donned our packs. It was time to make the big snow traverse, the one that causes so many problems each Spring. Not only was the snow quite steep, it was also on the north side of the pass, so it didn’t melt rapidly, even on a normal snow year. We could see that there were several versions of paths that hikers had made over the last few months. Back in June, they never even bothered hiking where we were now, but instead stayed high on the main ridge to the north, then angled downward as best they could where there wasn’t a dangerous cornice. In July, they crossed along the top of the pass, but the cornice was still present, so they didn’t do the traverse until they found a safer spot. Now, in August, we were hiking much closer to the location of the actual trail.

It turned out just the way the other southbound hikers had reported: It was now a deep trench of melting slushy snow (with hard snow underneath the slushy layer) and it didn’t feel dangerous at all, considering. We still took it slow and used our hiking poles just in case, but we never really felt like we were at risk of sliding down to our doom on the rocks below.

Heading north from Glen Pass as we prepare for the snow traverse – July’s path is the upper track

So many people hike this trail over Glen Pass that the snow traverse was almost a snow trench! — So many people were hiking this trail over Glen Pass that the snow traverse was almost a snow trench!

GoPro video of hiking across the snow traverse

After that, we simply headed on down the many steep switchbacks. There were still a few spots with snow where we had to scramble on rocks (just like on the south side) but with a bit of care we made it all the way down to the basin full of unnamed lakes.

Looking west at the unnamed lakes in the basin below Glen Pass as we continue on the PCT — Looking west at the unnamed lakes in the basin below Glen Pass

Panorama shot looking north toward the Rae Lakes Basin from the PCT below Glen Pass — Panorama shot looking north toward the Rae Lakes Basin

Mount Cotter, Peak 12500, and Mount Clarence-King were visible in the distance, center — Mount Cotter, Peak 12500, and Mount Clarence-King were visible in the distance (center)

Purple Asters and Alpine Daisies growing along the PCT near Glen Pass — Purple Asters and Alpine Daisies growing along the trail – not many plants can survive up this high

Vicki decided to do a short glissade on the slushy snow below Glen Pass to save herself some tedious scrambling — Vicki decided to do a short glissade on the slushy snow to save her knees from some tedious downhill scrambling

Looking south toward Glen Pass on the JMT — Looking south toward Glen Pass after a snow-filled descent

Earlier that morning, while lazying around in camp, Vicki and I had taken out the map and tentatively planned out the next few days. We decided to make a few revisions to my original plan, which may have been overly ambitious. I tend to do that sort of thing. One of the items concerned the hike back out. Yesterday’s plan of camping just below Glen Pass was hailed as a great idea, since it made today so much easier. So Vicki wanted to do the same thing on the way back. This area we were in now, the basin of unnamed lakes, was the perfect spot to camp on the way out of the Rae Lakes environs. So, while we were here taking a break, we looked around for likely spots to pitch a tent. And we found a few. So we memorized what it looked like when facing the other way, and then continued down the trail. We were anxious to find a good spot for our “Base Camp” at lower Rae Lake, as we would be spending two nights there.

But first we had to hike on down the trail.

We stopped for some lunch on some granite slabs and listened to the water running under the snow — We stopped for some lunch on some granite slabs and listened to the water running underneath the snow

Video of the snowmelt creek from Glen Pass as it heads down into the Rae Lakes along the Pacific Crest Trail

Vicki attempted to cross this stream with dry feet, but gave up quickly and we found another route

We continued down along a noisy cascading creek and eventually turned a corner and the upper lake came into view. Painted Lady was the peak to the south, with veins of reddish rock, and I told Vicki how it tended to dominate the view from the lakes. Thousands of pictures of Painted Lady had been posted online. And I’m adding to them even now.

We arrive at Upper Rae Lake on the PCT, with Black Mountain (left) and Painted Lady — We arrived at Upper Rae Lake, with Black Mountain (left) and Painted Lady (right)

View north from upper to lower Rae Lake from the PCT — View north from the upper to lower Rae Lake

Near the division between the upper and lower lake was the junction between the PCT/JMT and the Sixty Lakes Trail. My plan was to take the Sixty Lakes Trail part of the way around the west side of Lower Rae Lake, then leave the trail and strike out cross-country along the western shore. Almost all of the through-hikers would be camping on the eastern side of the lake, or somewhere near the trail. I figured that we’d have plenty of great views without any of the annoyances of crowded camping spots. Peace and Solitude is part of the Wilderness Experience, at least for us. And we weren’t afraid to do a little extra work to get it.

Trail junction sign where the Pacific Crest Trail - John Muir Trail meets the 60 Lakes Trail — Trail junction sign where the Pacific Crest Trail / John Muir Trail meets the 60 Lakes Trail

The 60 Lakes Trail travels along one of the smaller of the Rae Lakes — The 60 Lakes Trail starts by traveling along one of the smaller of the Rae Lakes

A small Rae Lake with Dragon Peak (left) and Painted Lady (right) reflecting on its surface

Black Mountain, Dragon Peak, Falcor Peak, and Painted Lady from the 60 Lakes Trail

Once the 60 Lakes Trail began climbing, it was time to leave it and follow the shore. I kept checking my GPS, to make sure we were nearing the spot I’d picked back at home, using satellite imagery and the topo maps. Soon we came to the peninsula that stuck out into the middle of Lower Rae Lake. This was the spot! Or so I hoped. Last night’s spot had been covered in snow, so we had to improvise, and today’s might not be any better. We set down our packs near a potential spot, then walked around looking for a better one. And we found it, but we had to climb up and over a granite outcropping to get there. And it turned out to be directly on the peninsula, so I was happy.

View north over lower Rae Lake from the peninsula on the western shore - we were looking for a camping spot — View north over lower Rae Lake from the peninsula on the western shore – we were looking for a camping spot

We had to climb up and over a granite promontory to get onto the main peninsula where we found a spot

Dragon Peak with the red streak from the top of the promontory on the western peninsula of lower Rae Lake — Dragon Peak (with the red streak, center) from the promontory on the western peninsula of lower Rae Lake

Fin Dome was above us - we'd be heading up that way tomorrow — Fin Dome was above us – we’d be heading up that way tomorrow

So we went back and grabbed the big packs, then carried them down into our new home. We set up camp right away. It was still early in the afternoon, so Vicki declared that it was time to get some laundry done. We did it together, soaping and rinsing and wringing out the clothes just like it was done in the bad old days. It was hard work! Then we hung them in the sun on a piece of light rope and let the breeze do its job.

I took some photos, and Vicki took another nap. I joined her in the tent and read my book for awhile, until I, too, fell asleep. It was a very mellow afternoon.

Diamond Peak and lower Rae Lake with our clean laundry hanging out to dry in the afternoon sun and breeze

Vicki cooking some dinner at 5pm - it gets cool quickly up here at 10500 feet elevation, even in midsummer — Vicki cooking some dinner at 5pm – it gets cool quickly up here at 10500 feet elevation, even in midsummer

The sun hid behind the mountains quite early on this side of the lake, and we put on some extra layers. We thought about swimming in the lake, and it would sure feel great to have cleaner bodies, but we knew that it wasn’t going to happen. Clean clothing would have to do.

Our tent and campsite in the afternoon shade at Rae Lakes, with Painted Lady overexposed in the sun (left)

We took some short walks around the peninsula after dinner, and I took a few sunset photos. We sat and gazed across the lake, both north and south, and marveled at its beauty. We were truly visiting one of the gems of the High Sierra.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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