Day 41: Dicks Pass to Richardson Lake

From PCT mile 1104.4 to 1119.8 Total: 15.4 miles 8/17

It was the 41st day on my PCT Sierra Section trek and I hiked through the rest of the Desolation Wilderness, starting at Gilmore Lake, climbing up and over Dicks Pass, descending past multiple lakes such as Dicks, Fontanillis, and Middle Velma, then onward through the forest to arrive at Richardson Lake that afternoon.

I was getting excited, as I had less than sixty miles to go to reach Donner Pass (and my car), which the Pacific Crest Trail Association decided was the end of the Sierra Section. The Far Out app decided that the Sierra ended at Echo Lake, where I was yesterday, so on the phone app I was technically in Northern California. But I knew better. As an old-school PCT Hiker, this was actually California Section K and it was about 62 miles long.

Wherever I was, I woke up that morning in the dark, so it didn’t really matter. I was hungry, so I set about cooking my daily oatmeal. I got dressed and readied my snacks, then packed up the gear into individual bags and threw it outside the tent. I climbed out and took down the tent, then stuffed it in my backpack. The tent was biggest, so it went in first. Everything else had a specific order and habitual position by this time in the trek, and was no longer subject to change. The carbon bear canister went on top. I fired up the InReach satellite device and sent Vicki a morning text, and turned on the tracking feature, so she could follow me on her browser at home. Solo hikers should always do this, just in case of trouble.

Boiling water for my oatmeal breakfast on my Jetboil Flash stove at Gilmore Lake

I started hiking before 6:30am, and it was cool outside, so I was happy to begin the morning climb. I had about 900 feet and two miles of hiking to reach Dicks Pass, the highest point in Section K, at 9400 feet elevation. Vicki and I came over it from the opposite direction back in 2018, and I knew what to expect: Good views and a steady trail with minimal rocky steps. My kind of trail. So off I went.

Across the way, the sun was already rising, and it showed the Desolation Wilderness in all its glory under morning light. The Crystal Range was visible, although Lake Aloha was behind a ridge. And Susie Lake, which I passed yesterday, was also lit up already. I was glad that I was in the shade of the ridge to the east, at least initially. This would change later on.

I began the 900 foot climb to the top of Dicks Pass from camp at Gilmore Lake in the early morning — I began the 900 foot climb to the top of Dicks Pass in the early morning

I was in the shade but the Crystal Range was lit by morning light as I climbed to Dicks Pass on the PCT — I was in the shade but the Crystal Range to the west was lit by morning light

Zoomed-in view of Susie Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail on the way north to Dicks Pass — Zoomed-in view of Susie Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail at mile 1105

Climbing higher and rounding a bend, Jacks Peak, Dicks Peak, and Half Moon Lake all came into view. There was a side trail to Half Moon Lake which I didn’t take, and I wondered if I might have caught a trout there. Well, those fish were certainly safe from me now. As I hiked, the breeze began picking up, but it was welcome as I was beginning to sweat a bit due to all the climbing.

Dicks Peak in the sunlight as I climb up toward Dicks Pass in the shade — Dicks Peak in the sunlight as I climbed up toward Dicks Pass in the shade

Jacks Peak (9856 ft) and Dicks Peak (9974 ft) above Half Moon Lake on the long climb to Dicks Pass — Jacks Peak (9856 ft) and Dicks Peak (9974 ft) above Half Moon Lake, from PCT mile 1106

As the trail neared the pass, the grade softened, and soon I was casting a long shadow. The sun felt good on my legs, because the wind had been increasing steadily in its intensity. It was gusty, too, coming in great big swirling blasts that repeated every few minutes. It was mostly behind me, which helped. I stopped in the lee of a pine, put down my backpack, and got out my goretex windbreaker. I put it on, sun or no sun, as the breeze was really cutting through my clothing. Brrr!

I arrived at Dicks Pass and took some photos looking north. Dicks Lake was down below, plus other lakes in the vast basin. It was a great view, and I paused to enjoy it.

Shadow-selfie in the morning light as I neared Dicks Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — Shadow-selfie in the morning light as I neared the pass

The final stretch of trail to Dicks Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — The final stretch of trail to Dicks Pass

View north toward Dicks Lake from Dicks Pass at Pacific Crest Trail mile 1107 — View north toward Dicks Lake from Dicks Pass at PCT mile 1107

Sadly, I remembered a minor detail about the trail: This wasn’t the actual pass as far as the PCT was concerned. The true “High Point” was several hundred feet above me, and off to the right along the ridge. Below me was a steep cliff, and no trail was heading down that way. No thanks!

So I turned right, and started the final climb. Unfortunately, the mellow breeze had become much stronger, and now it was coming from the side, trying to blow me off the ridge. I paused to put on the hood of my jacket, and cinched my hat tight under my chin. I was still wearing my fingertip gloves from camp, and hadn’t taken them off the whole way. It was positively cold up here! I started hiking as best as I could. It reminded me of the big breezes on the ridge south of Sonora Pass, but this time it was cold as well.

Both the breeze and the views were so impressive that I took a whole bunch of photos and videos as I climbed. Scroll on by if you don’t want to watch them, but here they are:

Sadly, Dicks Pass was on a cliff, so the PCT had to climb a lot higher before it reached the high point — Sadly, Dicks Pass was on a cliff, so the PCT had to climb a lot higher before the highest point

View south from the PCT near Dicks Pass, with Susie Lake down below me — View south from near the pass, with Susie Lake down below me

The PCT climbed a lot higher than I liked to the high point at Dicks Pass - the wind was strong and cold — The trail climbed a lot higher and the wind was strong and cold

Looking west toward Dicks Peak and the climber's trail that leads to the summit - no I didn't climb it — Looking west toward Dicks Peak and the climber’s trail that leads to the summit – no I didn’t try it

The final dash to the highpoint was utterly devoid of trees along the trail. Luckily, the wind was from the southeast, and it basically blew me up the hill to the summit. I took a photo of the wooden post and continued onward. On a calm day, this would have been a perfect spot for a break. I would have taken all kinds of photos and videos. But not today. If you want to see more, go visit my pages from 2018 when the weather was perfect.

One final grade to reach to the top of Dicks Pass - at least the wind was behind me now — One final grade to reach to the top of Dicks Pass – at least the wind was behind me now

Marker at the high point of Dicks Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail, 9400 feet elevation, at PCT mile 1107 — Marker at the high point of Dicks Pass, 9400 feet elevation

There was still a bit of unmelted snow on the north face of Dicks Peak

I began the descent, and the trail was now in the lee of the pass itself, plus it was within some low pines, which attenuated the gusts. I could still hear the wind whistling and roaring in the treetops, but it was hardly affecting me down on the trail. I began hiking along at a good clip. The path was smooth and the switchbacks were fun. Now that I wasn’t frozen, I was able to open my jacket and take off my hood. Life was good again.

After the windy climb, it was nice to enter a calmer forested area on the descent from Dicks Pass — After the cold and windy climb, it was nice to enter a calmer forested area on the descent

Dicks Lake and Fontanillis Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail north of Dicks Pass — Dicks Lake and Fontanillis Lake from the trail north of the pass

The PCT switchbacked downhill another 900 feet to the north of Dicks Pass on the way to Dicks Lake — The PCT switchbacked downhill another 900 feet on the way to Dicks Lake

As I neared Dicks Lake, I got a bonus view to the east, of mighty Lake Tahoe. The trail gave me relatively few views of Dicks Lake, because there were a lot of pines on the descent as well as around the northern shore. When I arrived at the bottom, I peeked down the side trail to the spot where Vicki and I camped, but I didn’t go down there for a visit. Or to go fishing. I just wanted to keep on hiking.

Dicks Peak on the left above Dicks Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail north of Dicks Pass — Dicks Peak on the left above Dicks Lake – the pass is out of frame on the left

Lake Tahoe appeared in the distance to the east, part way down the long grade north of Dicks Pass — Lake Tahoe appeared in the distance to the east, from a point on the long grade

This was the side trail to Dicks Lake from the PCT but there was a tent down there so I didn't visit this time — This was the side trail to the Dicks Lake campsites, but there was a tent down there so I didn’t go

I rounded another turn and the wind dropped. I decided that I could finally take a proper break. I hadn’t stopped all morning, what with the wind and the cold. I put away my jacket and gloves. It was still a bit breezy, but the air was warmer now.

The next lake on today’s list was Fontanillis Lake, which was quite long. The trail was all granite in this region, as this land was under a glacier during the Ice Age. I stopped at one little cove which seemed to have fewer wind waves and got out my Tenkara Fly Rod. I knew that I really ought to make a token attempt at fishing, since I was planning to publish my PCT Sierra Trout Fishing Guide after I got home, and it would be nice if I did some double-checking of the internet sources I compiled it from. Supposedly, people have dared to lie on the internet, and fact-checkers are very important. This lake was supposed to contain Brookies and Rainbows. And I can proudly report that I caught zero fish! So I decided to let the internet data stand, as negative results don’t prove much of anything. But at least I tried.

Fontanillis Lake was the next lake on today's route, north on the PCT through the Desolation Wilderness — Fontanillis Lake was the next lake on today’s route, at PCT mile 1109

View south over Fontanillis Lake, with Dicks Pass, left of center, and Dicks Peak, right

The lake was about a mile long. As I rounded a corner near the northern end, I heard voices. Women’s voices, whooping out loud. What on earth? I cautiously hiked forward, and came upon a half-dozen women, roughly fifty years of age, swimming in the lake, clad only in their undergarments! I called out and waved, and told them that they were nuts! Weren’t they freezing? Yes, they said, but they didn’t care. Then they laughed and whooped some more. They already swam across to the other side and were currently swimming back. I took a quick photo, because I always do, but only because I knew that they would be reduced to a few pixels on the sensor at that zoom level, their identities anonymized by purposely poor photography. Then I got the heck out of there! I wasn’t about to be accused of creep-hood. Or, even worse, enticed into the icy water by seductive mermaids.

Down at the far end, at the outlet creek, I stopped for a short break to filter a couple more liters of water. That should be enough to get me to camp, as the trail was mostly dry during the final miles, according to the comments on the Far Out app.

The Pacific Crest Trail ran right along the eastern shore of Fontanillis Lake, which had two distinct halves — The trail ran right along the eastern shore of Fontanillis Lake, which had two distinct halves

I met up with a group of crazy women who swam across Fontanillis Lake, and back - it was cold! — I met up with a group of crazy women who swam across Fontanillis Lake, and back – it was cold!

I filtered two liters of water at the outflow creek of Fontanillis Lake, at PCT mile 1110

A mile or so later, I entered the basin containing the various Velma Lakes: Upper, Middle, and Lower. Middle Velma Lake was the one that met the trail. It was the one that Vicki and I camped at, twice, back in 2018. We both had fond memories of that lake. So of course I had to stop and take a long break there. Across the way was Phipps Peak and Phipps Pass, which we also hiked. That was the route of the Tahoe-Yosemite Trail (TYT), which never really took off as an important thru-hike after the PCT and TRT became popular.

I sat down next to the lake and took off my shoes. I ate some snack and watched a few ducklings swimming around in the quiet cove. I also got out my fly rod and tried again, unsuccessfully, to catch a trout. The only thing I could think of to blame for this was that the ducklings scared them away, as it was a fine spot to be a fish. I had no idea until then what fierce competitors tiny ducklings could be.

Selfie with Middle Velma Lake and Phipps Peak (9229 ft) from Pacific Crest Trail mile 1111

Phipps Peak and Phipps Pass above Middle Velma Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail — Phipps Peak and Phipps Pass above Middle Velma Lake

Peaceful cove on Middle Velma Lake - I tried fishing here but there were no trout rising that day — Peaceful cove on Middle Velma Lake – I tried fishing here but there were no trout rising that day

I took a long break at Middle Velma Lake and watched ducklings swimming while eating some snack — I took a long break and watched ducklings swimming while eating my snack

Me and my sweaty socks, taking a break with a pleasant view of Middle Velma Lake - this is the life! — Me and my sweaty socks, taking a break with a pleasant view – this is the life for me!

As I hiked north, I remembered that the Velma Lakes weren’t really three of a kind. Two of them drained into Lake Tahoe, while Middle Velma drained west, into the Rubicon River. On the map, I had inadvertently crossed over the Sierra Crest and was now in the Eldorado National Forest.

I crossed the outflow creek through a marshy area and then the trail began to climb again, heading up into a pleasant pine forest on the flank of Phipps Peak. Easy hiking in the shade. I soon arrived at the junction with the TYT, where Vicki and I hiked. After this, I would be hiking on new turf, previously unexplored by me. It was a good feeling. Something new! I hoped it would have great views, but I also knew that it would be a long walk in the forest for the next five miles, at least.

Stagnant pond below the outlet of Middle Velma Lake where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses — Stagnant pond below the outlet of Middle Velma Lake where the trail crosses

Tall pine forest on the Pacific Crest Trail north of Middle Velma Lake in the Desolation Wilderness — Tall pine forest near the Phipps Pass Trail (TYT) junction, at mile 1112

Most of the pine trees along here had rings of bright green moss near the branch-points - interesting — Most of the pines here had rings of bright green moss near the branch-points – interesting

I was right about the lack of views, but that same breeze that plagued me on Dicks Pass had returned. It didn’t do much down here in the forest, but it was dragging puffy cumulus clouds along with it like mad. It seemed like they were racing along above me, and sometimes their shadows actually raced across the forest below me. It was quite cool to watch, really. The forecast held no rain, but up here in the mountains anything could happen. At the speed they were travelling it didn’t seem likely that they would have the time or the updraft needed to form a thunderhead. So I just watched them instead.

The next few miles north of Middle Velma Lake promised to be a boring forest walk with minimal views — The next few miles north of here promised to be a boring forest walk with minimal views

Phipps Creek at PCT mile 1114 was barely flowing - I was glad I got my water earlier that day — Phipps Creek at PCT mile 1114 was barely flowing – I was glad I got my water earlier that day

I neared the top of a very long uphill grade on the Pacific Crest Trail near mile 1116 — I neared the top of a very long uphill grade on the trail near mile 1116

Up at the top of the long grade, the trees got thinner and the views I was hoping for appeared. I was on a ridge above the Rubicon River valley, and I could see peaks to the south, west, and north. I saw the Crystal Range in the distance, and even Dicks Peak was visible. I wouldn’t have known it except that I fired up the PeakFinder Earth app on my phone (great app, totally worth the money) which provided names for all those mountains. The breeze was blowing in my face, but it was afternoon, and it was warm. Lovely day, and photos with clouds are always better. I took a lot of them along here.

I finally broke out of the endless forest walk and got some view of granite peaks to the west of the PCT — I finally broke out of the endless forest walk and got some view of granite peaks to the west

View back, southwest toward the cloud-covered Crystal Range from the Pacific Crest Trail — View back, southwest toward the cloud-covered Crystal Range

Another view southwest toward the Crystal Range with Dicks Peak, far left, at PCT mile 1117

I think that this might be Rockbound Lake, from the Pacific Crest Trail in the Desolation Wilderness — I think that this might be Rockbound Lake, off in the distance to the northwest

The trail continued north and descended gradually through the forest. Soon, I arrived at the northern boundary marker for the Desolation Wilderness. Hooray! I said to myself. I had an official wilderness permit for this part of my trek, but it also (technically) ended yesterday. It’s an “Entry” permit (for a particular day and location) not an Exit permit, so I was still legal, but I felt better anyway. Personally, I think that my permit to enter two weeks ago, back at Mammoth Lakes in the Inyo National Forest, should also be honored by the Eldorado National Forest rangers, but you never knew. Now I was safe from all of them. Avoiding Authorities is an American tradition that I was proud to uphold. Especially while obeying the rules.

I made it to the northern boundary of the Desolation Wilderness at Pacific Crest Trail mile 1118 — I made it to the northern boundary of the Desolation Wilderness at PCT mile 1118

Out of the wilderness, the PCT immediately crossed a dirt road - I was near the Rubicon Trail now — Out of the wilderness, the PCT immediately crossed a dirt road – I was near the Rubicon Trail now

Twenty short minutes later, and I was at Richardson Lake, my planned destination for the night. It was still early, about 3pm, but that was OK. Maybe I could try some fly fishing. But first I needed a campsite. The Far Out app didn’t show a campsite at the lake, which was odd. I had to find out about the sites by reading the comments at nearby locations. This happened far too often, based on my experience, but I suppose somebody utterly disconnected from the Reality On The Ground had the Power To Decide which spots count as campsites and which don’t. Like Petty Tyrants lording it over their tiny fiefdoms.

I headed down the trail, which stayed high above the lake initially. Some folks had tents near the shore. When I got closer, I met a couple of very sad backpackers. They wanted to know how to get back to Highway 89 at Lake Tahoe. Their water filter had clogged. I looked down at the lake, whose surface was distorted by large waves, thanks to the big breeze that day. The water looked very cloudy. Apparently, the waves were churning up silt from the muddy bottom, and as the lake was shallow near shore, any water collected there would also be silty. Guaranteed to clog a water filter. For this couple, it spelled the end of their hike. They needed a new filter, and the only ones available were at a store in South Lake Tahoe. I saw a few Four Wheel Drive trucks parked at the end of the lake, and told them to ask those folks for a ride. Which they did, eventually.

I arrived at Richardson Lake fairly early, at 3pm, but this was 15 miles total and my planned campsite — I arrived at Richardson Lake early, at 3pm, but I hiked 15 miles total and it was my planned camp

View looking over the west end of Richardson Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail — View looking over the west end of Richardson Lake

View west over breezy Richardson Lake at PCT mile 1120 - it was too windy to bother fishing here today — View west over breezy Richardson Lake at PCT mile 1120 – it was too windy to bother fishing

Armed with the knowledge of bad water, I tried to find a solution, as I needed water myself. This was the only water for a mile or two. I stood near the shore and looked around. The far side of the lake was upwind, and still calm, but it was bordered by brush and reeds. There was, however, a small cove on the left which might serve. I headed directly there before looking for a campsite. If I couldn’t get water I was hiking onward, because I didn’t have enough for the night. I met a young lady camping there and asked her about the silt, but she couldn’t say for sure. So I took off my pack and scooped up two liters of what turned out to be somewhat cloudy water. Hmmm… I decided to use my special homemade prefilter, which had an ultrafine stainless steel screen inside. It clogged almost immediately as I tried to transfer some dirty water through it into another container. But I got a cup of water through it before the flow stopped. Better than nothing, I thought. I had to repeatedly blow out the crud from my prefilter, over and over, but eventually I had a bagful of what looked like clear water. I then sent this better water through my Real filter. And it worked! I had enough for the night. I decided to rinse out the main filter and the interim water bag tomorrow using a non-silty source. Crisis averted! This is the second time that this prefilter saved my main filter from destruction. Hooray for me, and hooray for my prefilter!

There were a few 4WD vehicles parked at Richardson Lake that day - I admit that I wished I owned one — There were a few 4WD vehicles parked at the lake – I admit that I wished I owned one

I hiked around to the southern shore where there were fewer waves and collected some silty water

The wind waves along shore were stirring up silt from the lake's bottom, so I only filtered two liters — The wind waves along shore were stirring up silt from the lake’s bottom, so I only filtered two liters

On the way back, I met the folks with the 4WD trucks. We talked motors for a while. Apparently the world-famous Rubicon Trail was nearby. I would love to do that trail someday, but I knew you needed a seriously modified vehicle to survive it without damage. There’s a reason they named that Jeep model the Rubicon. They were carrying fishing rods, but also gave up on fly fishing due to the wind. Good folks. I mentioned the two hapless hikers with the clogged filter, but they were gone already. I never found out what happened to them.

Then I stood near shore, down at the windy end of the lake, and examined the potential campsites. All of them suffered from too much wind. I gave up and continued a bit further on the trail and found a small spot just over a low hill. It was much less breezy here. A little breeze is fine, but gusts that flatten the tent poles are not. Not only would I have more privacy, but if I wanted to see the lake I could walk a few feet. Good enough for me.

The breeze was too strong near the shore of Richardson Lake so I found a quieter spot just over a rise — The breeze was too strong near the shore of the lake so I found a quieter spot just over a rise

After that, it was business as usual. I ate dinner and watched the puffy clouds scud by. I texted Vicki and updated my trail notes. Then I got out the Far Out app and examined tomorrow’s plan. It turned out that I only had 38 miles left to hike! My current plan was to hike two fifteen mile days followed by an easy eight mile day. But maybe I could modify that. I was a Certified Hiking Machine now, and the elevation profile looked pretty easy over those 38 miles. If I did it in two nineteen mile days I would be finished a day sooner! This was worth contemplating. I found a likely campsite at the nineteen mile mark. It had water nearby, but no killer view like the original plan. I decided to sleep on it for now. And that’s exactly what I did.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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