Day 42: Granite Chief Wilderness

From PCT mile 1119.8 to 1139.0 Total: 19.3 miles 8/18

On the 42nd day of my PCT Sierra Section trek I decided to up my game to nineteen mile days, beginning at my camp at Richardson Lake, then hiking north to Barker Pass and onward to the high ridge within the Granite Chief Wilderness, traversing the ridge above Alpine Meadows Ski Area, then down into the Five Lakes Creek valley where I continued a bit further to a campsite along Whisky Creek.

I was excited to put my new near-twenty mile plan into effect, so I woke up before first light and started getting ready. Sadly, my tent had condensation issues, mostly on the inside. It was going to be a bit heavier than usual in my backpack. Mostly I’ve been lucky with a dry tent this Summer, but not today. Oh well. I continued my usual breakfast routine of hot oatmeal, and soon enough I was packed and ready to hike.

First light from my camp at Richardson Lake - I decided to try for a 19 mile day today! — First light from my camp at Richardson Lake – I decided to try for a 19 mile day today!

That morning, the inside of my tent was coated with condensation for the first time in quite a while

Top priority that morning was getting more water and rinsing out the water bladder that got contaminated by the silt from the lake yesterday. Miller Creek was about a mile and a half away, down in a valley. It wasn’t flowing all that great, but it was flowing, and there were good pools to scoop from. I filtered some water and used it to rinse out the other bags, the prefilter, and also the main filter itself, via backflushing it. I felt better after that. All told, I carried about three and a half liters, which should get me to the stream near camp later on. I would be hiking on a high, waterless ridge most of the day, so this was my big chance to “Camel-Up,” as we PCT hikers say.

I started hiking at 6am, just before sunrise, north from Richardson Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail — I started hiking at 6am, just before sunrise, north from Richardson Lake

The forest floor was lush as the PCT headed downhill to Miller Creek

I stopped to filter two liters of water from slow-flowing Miller Creek, at Pacific Crest Trail mile 1122 — I stopped to filter a few liters of water from slow-flowing Miller Creek, at PCT mile 1122

I knew that somewhere along here I would have to cross the fabled “Rubicon Trail” but I didn’t know where it was, as it wasn’t obvious on the Far Out app. Vicki and I visited the western terminus near Loon Lake last year, but my 4WD Rav4 couldn’t possibly survive that tough a road. So we just watched the modified trucks heading out. It wasn’t until I got home and started writing this page that I downloaded a GPS track, and this road next to Miller Creek was on the famous trail. So now I know. Too bad it was too early in the morning, because nobody drove by to give me a show.

I crossed Miller Creek Road (FR 3013.20) - This is part of the world-famous 4WD Rubicon Trail — I crossed Miller Creek Road – This is part of the world-famous 4WD Rubicon Trail

After that, it was uphill hiking for miles. I had about 600 feet to climb to reach Barker Pass, and another 700 to the ridge beyond that. But first things first. I started climbing to the pass, where there was a paved forest road and an official PCT trailhead. There were trees and meadows along the way, and the morning air was still cool, so it was a pleasant hike. And the trail was smooth. Good times.

Morning light in the forest as the Pacific Crest Trail climbed out of Miller Creek toward Barker Pass — Morning light in the forest as the trail climbed out of Miller Creek toward Barker Pass

Hiking through Barker Meadow on the way to Barker Pass Road, on the Pacific Crest Trail — Hiking through Barker Meadow on the way to Barker Pass Road

The final climb in the morning sunshine toward Barker Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail — The final climb in the morning sunshine toward Barker Pass

There were a couple of cars parked at the Barker Pass trailhead, but I didn’t stop for long. I had a lot of miles to hike today! Since I was feeling good on this climb, I kept on going. A mile or so later, I topped out on a ridge overlooking Lake Tahoe. I decided to take a break right there and eat some snack. It was 9:30am, and I already hiked seven miles and climbed over a thousand feet. I deserved this break. I was also more than a third done with today’s hike! That was a milestone worth celebrating. I took a bunch of pictures, and even read my Kindle for a while as my socks dried in the breeze.

I arrived at the Barker Pass Trailhead at Pacific Crest Trail mile 1126 by 9am - at a steady 2 mph pace — I arrived at the Barker Pass Trailhead at PCT mile 1126 by 9am – a steady 2 mph pace

Climbing through a high meadow full of Mules Ears north of Barker Pass on the PCT — Climbing through a high meadow full of Mules Ears north of the pass

As I climbed, Lake Tahoe appeared to the east, down the valley that Barker Pass Road goes through — Lake Tahoe appeared to the east, down the valley that Barker Pass Road goes through

I took a welcome boot-off break with a great view on the west ridge of Barker Peak, at PCT mile 1127 — I took a welcome boot-off break on the west ridge of Barker Peak, at PCT mile 1127

Just the same, I couldn’t take a break forever. I had more climbing to do on this, my first big climb of the day. The trail ran below a high ridge while cutting across a steep talus slope. Pretty typical PCT style. The rock was interesting as it was more of a solid igneous type, not the usual granite. I thought it might be andesite, but I’m no geologist. You’ll have to go there yourself if you doubt me. I was there, and even I doubt me.

There was a long climb ahead, with the PCT-TRT staying on the east side of the crest

Chunks of talus along the stony ridge - it looked like andesite rather than the usual Sierra granite — Chunks of talus along the stony ridge – it looked like andesite rather than the usual Sierra granite

The Pacific Crest Trail traversed along a steep talus slope, still climbing north of Barker Pass — The trail traversed along a steep talus slope, climbing steadily

I topped out near Point 8355, a volcanic knob on the end of a pointy ridge. There were fine views from there, looking south and east. I was able to see Dicks Peak and the Crystal Range, back in the Desolation Wilderness where I hiked yesterday and the day before. As always, I used my PeakFinder Earth app to check out the peaks around me. I love that app. It was one of the best five dollar bills I’ve ever spent. No lie.

After that, the trail went downhill. Of all the nerve! I had to lose about 500 feet of my hard-won gains. And then I had to climb 600 again. So PCT-ish! I would have complained to someone, but all the great views held my tongue. And kept my shutter-finger busy, as always.

The first summit of the day was that saddle west of Peak 8355, with Lake Tahoe visible on the right

Peakfinder Earth hybrid photo looking south from Peak 8355 toward Dicks Peak and the Crystal Range — Peakfinder Earth hybrid photo, south from Peak 8355 toward Dicks Peak and the Crystal Range

I was sad, but the PCT switchbacked its way downhill anyway at mile 1128 - it would climb again soon — I was sad, but the PCT switchbacked its way downhill at mile 1128

The Pacific Crest Trail was smooth and cruisey along here, and there were views of Lake Tahoe

Of course, I eventually discovered why it dropped. There’s almost always a reason. This time it was a very rocky ridge with cliffs up above. It didn’t look like a fun spot to build a trail. So I shelved the complaints. And started re-climbing the elevation I just lost. It was getting rather warm by this time, and I definitely sweated on my way up.

The rocky ridge above me to the west was the reason I had to drop down low, then climb again later — The rocky ridge above me was the reason I had to drop down low, then climb again later

Tall pines with interesting mossy rings on the Pacific Crest Trail near mile 1130 as I climbed up to the ridge — Tall pines with mossy rings as I climbed up to the ridge, at PCT mile 1130

I was happy be on the final switchback of the climb to the long ridge north starting near Twin Peaks — I was happy be on the final switchback of the climb to the long ridge near Twin Peaks

Once I reached the top, I took a lunch break. The hardest part of my day was done. After this, I had about five miles or more of walking along the top of this long, north-south ridgeline. There would be views and a breeze. Life was good. But first, I broke out my soggy tent. There was no need to carry extra water weight. I spread it out over some bushes and retired into the shade of some pines to eat my Pop-Tart lunch. I read my book and generally relaxed. I was feeling good, and I had confidence that I would hike all nineteen miles today.

I made it to the top of the climb and took a break near the Granite Chief Wilderness sign at PCT mile 1131 — I made it to the top and took a break near the Granite Chief Wilderness sign at PCT mile 1131

It was lunchtime, and breezy on the ridge, so I got out my soggy tent and dried it while I ate my pop-tart — It was lunchtime and breezy, so I got out my soggy tent and dried it while I ate my pop-tart

I put away the tent, which dried quite fast in this breeze, and started hiking again. It was super-cruisey. I was flying along, pausing every so often to take yet another photo or panorama video. Lake Tahoe was off to the east, looking like the monster it is, and other valleys were on the west, including the Five Lakes Valley where I would be getting water later on. As I neared Twin Peaks, the Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) headed downhill to the east. The TRT and PCT had been travelling together for the last fifty miles! And now I was free of it. Back on the good old PCT again, a solo hiker on a solo trail.

Lake Tahoe to the east as I continue along the easy ridge hike on the Pacific Crest Trail — Lake Tahoe to the east as I continued along the easy ridge hike

View west over the Five Lakes Creek Valley with Peak 8385, left of center, from the Pacific Crest Trail — View west over the Five Lakes Creek Valley with Peak 8385, left of center

The Tahoe Rim Trail left the Pacific Crest Trail and now I was hiking exclusively on the PCT - Yay! — The Tahoe Rim Trail left the Pacific Crest Trail and now I was hiking exclusively on the PCT – Yay!

At this point I realized that I was not only on the PCT, but I was hiking directly on the Pacific Crest itself. This ridge was the crest. I love it when the trail does that. Much of the time the actual crest is off to one side, especially in steep and forbidding places like the High Sierra. But here I was, hiking for miles with views in every direction. There was even a good, solid breeze. Nothing as crazy as yesterday on Dicks Pass, or a week or so ago south of Sonora Pass. It was simply wonderful.

View east to Lake Tahoe, looking down the Ward Creek valley, at PCT mile 1132

Looking north along the high ridge toward the Alpine Meadows Ski Area

Zoomed-in view a few miles north to the Alpine Meadows Ski Area - the PCT would be on the left side — Zoomed-in view north to the Alpine Meadows Ski Area – the PCT would be on the left side

I had five miles of hiking along this ridge. It took me hours, and I enjoyed every minute of it. There were towers of some kind up ahead, and my map said that it was Ward Peak, where a ski lift ended, as part of the Alpine Meadows ski area. Tahoe is famed for its skiing, and this was one of the many spots that would be packed with non-hiking athletes, ones who got rides up to the tops of mountains, and exerted themselves on the way back down. Hey, it takes all kinds to make a world, as they say.

View north to twin crags near Peak 8142 along the PCT west of Lake Tahoe — View north to the twin crags near Peak 8142

Zoomed-in view of the twin crags along the Peak 8142 ridge near PCT mile 1133

Ward Peak (8602 ft) on the left, at the Alpine Meadows Ski Area, from the Pacific Crest Trail — Ward Peak (8602 ft) on the left, at the Alpine Meadows Ski Area

Yet another beautiful view of Lake Tahoe from the Pacific Crest Trail south of the Alpine Meadows Ski Area — Yet another beautiful view of Lake Tahoe from the long high ridge

Multi-colored volcanic talus on the mountainside at Pacific Crest Trail mile 1134 — Multi-colored volcanic talus on the mountainside

Bright yellow flowers along the Pacific Crest Trail west of Lake Tahoe near Alpine Meadows Ski Resort — Bright yellow flowers along the trail – there weren’t many up here in August

Eventually, I reached Ward Peak and traversed along the trail on its western flank. I met two day-hikers, but I had a feeling that they hiked up there. I didn’t think that the lift was operating for Summer fun, but I could be wrong. I said Hi and passed them by. I was still a Man on a Mission, a man with many miles left to hike that day.

I was nearing the Ward Peak ski lift on the PCT near mile 1134

The Pacific Crest Trail traversed below Ward Peak on the west side of the ski area — The trail traversed below Ward Peak on the west side of the ski area

Both views of an interesting volcanic outcropping near Ward Peak at PCT mile 1134 — Both views of an interesting volcanic outcropping

There was a cell tower on top of Ward Peak at the Alpine Meadows Ski Resort

After passing Ward Peak, I arrived on the saddle at mile 1134.5, the spot where I originally planned to spend the night. It was only 2pm, and breezy, and the spots were a bit rocky. Did I feel so tired that I couldn’t make four and half more miles? With most of them being downhill? Of course I wasn’t that tired! Plus, I really could use a bit more water. Sitting out there in the sun for six more hours might have been enjoyable, but it wasn’t that enjoyable.

Instead, I took a few photos and gave Vicki a call. I had cell signal up here! I told her about my double-nineteen-mile-day plan, and that I might get home sooner. She liked that. Then I checked my texts. Metal Tim said that he and Little Engine had changed their plans and wouldn’t be camping up in Tahoe in their RV. This freed me up to get a motel in Truckee tomorrow night! I did a bit of browsing, and soon I had a reservation at the Inn at Truckee. Oh yes, I would be clean and fresh tomorrow night! This was something to look forward to!

There was a snow fence at the top of Wolverine Bowl just north of Ward Peak on the Pacific Crest Trail — There was a snow fence at the top of Wolverine Bowl, just north of Ward Peak

My original plan was to camp here, but it was too windy, too early, and too hot so I was glad to hike on — My original plan was to camp here, but it was too windy, too early, and too hot so I was glad to keep going

After that, I put the phone on Airplane Mode and hiked on. There was another bit of ridge to walk after the saddle. Along it, there were official Boundary Signs marking the edge of the ski area. If you went off to the west you’d be out of bounds, and might not get back alive. I got one last view of Lake Tahoe, and then it was time to head into the Out of Bounds Zone. Sounded good to me!

Looking northeast, down into the bowl at the Alpine Meadows Lodge, from PCT mile 1135

Alpine Meadows Ski area Boundary signs along the Pacific Crest Trail north of Ward Peak — Alpine Meadows Ski area Boundary signs along the PCT north of Ward Peak

One last view of Lake Tahoe before the PCT began switchbacking downhill to Five Lakes Creek

The descent was about 1300 feet over four miles of hiking, but the first part to the creek was about two thirds of that. There were plenty of short switchbacks, and I was hiking in the sun the entire way, but the trail was smooth and the miles went by in short order.

Squaw Peak (8878 ft) on the left, part of the Squaw Valley Ski Area, as the PCT headed down into the valley — Squaw Peak (8878 ft) on the left, part of the Squaw Valley Ski Area as I headed downhill

Plenty of easy, cruisey switchbacks leading down to Five Lakes Creek on the Pacific Crest Trail — Plenty of easy, cruisey switchbacks leading down to Five Lakes Creek

The PCT flattened out down in the valley near Five Lakes Creek, with Squaw Peak high on the left — The PCT flattened out down in the valley near the creek, with Squaw Peak high on the left

When the trail looks like this, with lots of wild growth, keep your eyes peeled for hidden mud patches

By 3:30pm I arrived at Five Lakes Creek, and it was time for a short break. I had to filter a gallon or so of water. I wanted to be carrying enough for dinner, breakfast, and as far as I could make it tomorrow. There weren’t a lot of spots for water on the final run to Donner Pass, or most of them had already dried up. Seasonal water sources, they call them, and every season is a different length, depending on the Winter snowpack.

I stopped to take a break at Five Lakes Creek, at Pacific Crest Trail mile 1137 — I stopped to take a break at Five Lakes Creek, at PCT mile 1137

I filtered enough water to make it through the night and most of tomorrow, with two miles until camp — I filtered enough water to last the night and most of tomorrow, with two miles until camp

It was 4pm by the time I left the creek, and my backpack was very heavy. I even had my extra liter bag stuffed in the stretchy pocket on the outside. Oof. I could feel it swaying behind me as I continued downhill along the creek. Once again, I cursed the trailbuilders, as the trail first dropped, then turned right and went up another creek, rather than traversing around without losing elevation. Annoying but true. So I lugged all that water up yet another slope. By this time I was getting a bit tired. I kept checking the Far Out app to see how far I had to go. There was even a closer camping spot that tempted me along the way. Sadly, there was already a tent set up there. So on I trudged. A quarter mile later and I saw some trees up ahead, and it turned out that my campsite was under them in the shade.

Hiking downhill along Five Lakes Creek on the Pacific Crest Trail — Hiking downhill along Five Lakes Creek with a pack full of water weight

The Pacific Crest Trail turned right and began climbing uphill along Whisky Creek at mile 1138 — The trail turned right and began climbing uphill along Whisky Creek at mile 1138

Pretty meadow with white flowers along Whisky Creek as I neared my campsite

After hiking almost 20 miles, I was really hoping my campsite was in this grove of pines at PCT mile 1139 — After hiking19 miles, I was really hoping my campsite was in this grove of pines at PCT mile 1139

I put down my backpack with a thud. Yes! I told myself. I am a True Hiking Machine! But I didn’t rest. Not yet. I set up the tent and inflated the air mattress. I spread out my sleeping bag and let it get fluffy. I tossed my gear where it needed to be. And then I realized that this was going to be my Final Night on the Trail. Really! My journey was almost over. Too bad I didn’t have much to celebrate with. Just ramen noodles and chips and Gatorade. It would have to do.

My tent set up not far from Whisky Creek along the Pacific Crest Trail - my feet were seriously tired! — My tent set up not far from Whisky Creek – my feet were seriously tired!

After dinner, I got out and walked around a bit. There was a lot of light shining in from the west. I pushed through the pine branches and discovered a beautiful meadow. There was water gurgling not far away. It was Whisky Creek. Yes, Whiskey spelled Whisky. Kind of Risky. Hearing the water was somewhat annoying after carrying all that water the last two miles, but I still enjoyed it. The sound of running water is always welcome in the wilderness, after all. If it’s loud enough, you can’t hear the bears when they prowl through your camp at night. Just what the doctor ordered.

There was a meadow and flowing water behind my campsite, so I carried all that weight for nothing

After that, it was time to take a load off my feet. I put on my night layers for the last time, and I texted Vicki with my phone, as I had a bit of cell signal there. I updated all my notes and double-checked that it was really nineteen miles to my car at Donner Pass. It was. Tomorrow I would be finished with the PCT Sierra Section, all 505 glorious miles. I also decided to wake up early as I had two big climbs to do tomorrow. And then I lay down to sleep, and it wasn’t even sunset yet. But I didn’t care. It had been a very long day.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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