I backpacked from Barrel Spring near Highway S-22 across the cow meadows of Warner Springs to the trail’s second crossing of Highway 79, at which point Vicki met me and we drove to the Los Coyotes Indian Reservation and spent the night in their campground.
From PCT mile 101.1 to 111.4 Total: 10.3 miles 4/10
Thanks to yesterday’s Mission of Mercy to Ramona, I only hiked four miles, so today I had to make up for it. I also had to get it done soon, since Vicki would be arriving around noon. So I set my alarm and woke in the dark. It always takes longer than you think to pack up, but I managed to leave Barrel Spring just after sunrise. I said farewell to Ian and Sandy, then began the hike north to Warner Springs.
I remembered that this next section of trail was mainly across grassy meadows full of happy cows. Vicki and I day-hiked this back in 2013, and it was a very cruisey trail. On a hot day it would be tough due to the lack of tree cover, but that wasn’t a problem today. The only thing I had to watch out for were errant cows.
Originally, I had planned to spend the night at San Ysidro Creek, so it was good that I arrived there early. I was making up the extra mileage already. I wanted to be the one to wait for Vicki, not have Vicki wait for me, because she was being good enough to drive out here to see me.
After hiking through some rolling hills with oaks and chaparral, the trail resumed its course through cow pastures. Up ahead I could see the granite outcropping known as Eagle Rock. This is a must-see detour on the PCT. It’s huge, and looks so much like an Eagle that it’s difficult to believe that it wasn’t man made. I took a nice break up on the hilltop, and I was the only one there, amazingly enough. It is also a popular day-hiking destination. I took a selfie to send back home, then continued on.
Shortly afterward, I came upon a roving herd of Attack Cows. They were strategically positioned directly across the trail, like trolls underneath a bridge. They were all lying down, aggressively chewing their cuds, poised to spring at a moment’s notice. This is precisely what city boys think when they come upon harmless domesticated livestock. Just the same, I decided not to bother their repose, and cut a wide path around them, across the turf. They looked like happy cows, but all of them eyeballed me cautiously, just in case I was a notorious Attack Hiker.
Eventually, the sunny pastures were left behind as the trail neared Warner Springs. Large oak trees lined the path, and a creek called Cañada Verde paralleled the route, which tended downhill toward the highway. I was making good time, and it was easy hiking.
Technically, PCT CA Section A ended at its first intersection with Highway 79. One full section finished! Woo hoo! Only 28 more to go! These “section” divisions designate manageable portions that can be backpacked in a week or so before needing a resupply of food, and are roughly 100 miles in length, some longer and others shorter. Usually there is a town or highway that the trail intersects to make this easier. Most of the thru hikers send themselves a box to the post office in Warner Springs, which was a mile or so up the road. As for me, Vicki was delivering my resupply in the car, so I had it easy. But I still had a few miles to go. I was meeting her at the second crossing of Highway 79, on the far side of town. It wasn’t far, with easy hiking through meadows filled with wildflowers.
I spent the crossing hiking along with a seriously fit hiker named Lone Wolf. She had begun her thru hike with a boyfriend but he turned out to be a real jerk so she was a true Lone Wolf once again. I met her yesterday at Barrel Spring, and again today as she returned to the trail after getting her resupply box. She planned to do a HERO Day, which in PCT-speak means that you go into town to resupply yet still manage to hike a solid number of miles in the same day. Yes, Lone Wolf was a true hero. I was sad that she would be hiking so fast that I would never meet her again on the trail, but I was proud of her just the same. We parted ways at the highway, when I headed over to a parking area to wait for Vicki.
It wasn’t long before she arrived. We drove back to Barrel Spring to fetch my Rav4, then headed to Warner Springs and the Los Coyotes Indian Reservation. We were going to camp at their campground. We knew about it because we once came there, back in 2017, in order to dayhike to the summit of Hot Springs Mountain, the highest point in San Diego County. It was a really great hike, with huge trees and an old fire tower up on top.
We checked in with the Tribal Security office, then continued on into the reservation to the campground. It was still very early in the season, so we were the only campers present. It was odd, but quite nice to have the entire place to ourselves. Plus, it was quiet at night, unlike the raucous frogs at Barrel Spring. And the best part was that Vicki and I were able to snuggle each other all night long. Sleeping solo has been the most difficult aspect of this thru hike for me thus far. I can do it, of course, but that doesn’t mean that I have to like it. Oh well. There was no point in asking Vicki to hike along with me, so I simply decided to enjoy our time together whenever an opportunity presented itself. And this was one of those times.
For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page
For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page
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