On the twelfth day of our Ultimate Alaska Cruise, we visited the town of Haines, and learned about Native Culture at the Jilkaat Kwaan Heritage Center. We also walked through town, ate some pizza, visited a museum, went to a brewery, bowed to a dog, and enjoyed a fine day with good weather.
The ship was already docked when we woke up, so we ate a quick breakfast and headed down the gangway and across the pier to shore. Our small tour bus was waiting nearby. It turned out that only five passengers chose to take this excursion, so we got on board and started driving right away.
We headed northwest up Haines Road, beside the Chilkat River. Along the way we entered the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Reserve, and the driver stopped at the highway pullout. We all got out and stretched our legs, read the informative displays at the kiosk, then went off-trail a bit to visit the river itself. The Chilkat Valley was very wide and flat in this region, as if the river had meandered all over it during past eons. We didn’t see any eagles, but that was OK. Just being out in nature, watching the river flow by, was more than enough for me. This is what Alaska really looked like!
We got back in the bus and drove onward, until we reached the Jilkaat Kwaan Heritage Center. We were a bit early yet, so we walked out toward the river. Sadly, the Jilkaat Tribe asked that we take no photos or videos during our visit to the center. This was because they created native art, and wanted to retain control over it. After their long mistreatment by government authorities, they no longer trusted in the good faith of others. I can’t say that I blame them: In the past, much of their culture and language was systematically destroyed by “well-meaning” strangers. If you want to see authorized photos, please check out their website.
Meanwhile, we were treated very well. We got to see plenty of artwork and also witnessed some native dancing. The Jilkaat (ie Chilkat) Tribe has a rich history, both figuratively and literally. Living on the river, they were renowned traders, dealing with many other tribes and profiting thereby. Vicki and I were both very glad that we went there.
On the long ride back to town, the driver stopped along the highway near the river. We had a bit of snack, and he told us about the region, and also about himself. He lived back in the states, and spent the Summer season up here as a guide. He wasn’t the first guide we met who “commuted” to Alaska seasonally. It was a whole new lifestyle that I never even knew existed. Live and learn.
We went back to Haines. He drove around town and showed us a few places worth visiting, and offered to drop us off wherever we wanted. One of the passengers was older, and she went directly to the ship. Another went to the middle of town, and another joined the two of us by getting dropped off a short distance north of town in order to walk along a Nature Trail. Vicki and I were happy to take a hike, albeit a short one. The trail was well-made, and had wooden walkways where it went over some swampy regions. There were lots of interesting plants to see. It was Spring, and there were flowers all over the place.
We walked past the National Forest building, and Vicki laughed at the “Low” Fire Danger sign. Being from California, which burns every year, we had never seen Smokey Bear’s arrow pointed into the green zone. We walked a bit further and saw where some free buses picked people up to get rides back to the ship. We decided, after looking at the map, that we would have no trouble walking the rest of the way. Haines was situated in a beautiful region, with green grass, flowers, and pine trees, ringed with still-snowy mountains.
We decided to have some pizza for lunch. The driver asked us to use his name when we ordered, so that he would be one pizza closer to the ten he needed in order to get a free pizza. Whatever works. And it was good pizza!
Sadly, we discovered that we arrived too late to visit the famous Haines Hammer Museum. We explored the outside of the museum, and peeked in the windows. There were hammers of all types and sizes, displayed absolutely everywhere! Even the sign on top of the roof was made out of welded hammers. There were giant ones outside, and even the wall along the street had hammers wedged in between the stones. Amazing but true.
As we neared the harbor, we saw another museum, the Haines Sheldon Museum. It was full of native exhibits, so this was right up Vicki’s alley. We gave them a generous donation and wandered through the exhibits. I liked the Formline Art.
Vicki heard about the local brewery and their famous “Spruce Tip” Beer while we were eating lunch, as the pizza place had some on tap. She decided that we were going to bring some home to our son, who brewed his own beer on occasion. The Haines Brewing Company was more than happy to fill two huge cans directly from the source. Vicki let me have the honor of carrying them back to the ship in my backpack.
We headed for the ship. Along the way, we passed the small boat harbor. It was well protected from the already-mellow waters of the Chilkoot Inlet. I was expecting to see mostly fishing boats, but there were a surprising number of sailboats in the slips. I also didn’t think the town was large enough to support so many boats, but then again, this is Alaska, where everything is different. It looked like a wonderful region for small boat cruising. If it was good enough for thousand-foot cruise ships, it ought to be good enough for 25 foot ones!
We continued on, along the shore. As we turned a corner, I spied a group of local teenage girls bowing repeatedly toward a welded dog sculpture. What on earth was this all about? They broke off doing it and went back to a picnic table. This was my cue. I walked up to the dog, got down on my knees, and began bowing, over and over again. Vicki started laughing, and the girls saw me there. Immediately, they rushed over and joined me! They began counting the bows, and broke off before twenty. Then we all laughed like crazy. Vicki and I continued on, and we never found out why the Haines Locals bow to a rebar canine. It remains a mystery to this day.
Video of me joining some local kids, bowing repeatedly to the dog sculpture
We walked back to the ship and headed up to the Sun Deck. There was a great view from up there. The town was wreathed in snowy mountains and the clouds were very picturesque. Don’t ask how many photos I took.
Later on, just before dinner, the ship cast off it’s mooring lines, and away we went, steaming down Chilkoot Inlet. Overnight, we would be heading only a short distance, entering the Icy Strait yet again.
Tomorrow was going to be a real treat, as we planned to visit Glacier Bay National Park, and check out some awesome Alaskan glaciers.
For a topographic map of the cruise see my CalTopo Page
For LOTS more photos of the voyage see my Flickr Page
<< Back to Day 11 Onward to Day 13 >> 
hikingtales.com 