Day 4: Old Army Pass to Horseshoe Meadows

On the final day of my trek I backpacked from Soldier Lake to Horseshoe Meadows via Old Army Pass and the Cottonwood Lakes Trail.  It was a very fast hike, as my plan was to get home as soon as possible.  And I did.

I woke up before my alarm (set for 3:30am) and started getting dressed for the day.  I packed up all of my gear under the light of my headlamp.  I put a strawberry pop-tart in my shirt pocket, so I could eat breakfast on the trail.  Even my tent was dry this time, unlike yesterday, so I was happy to have the lightest possible backpack.

I must've wanted to get back home because I was already packed up and ready to go by 4am at Soldier Lake
I must’ve wanted to get back home because I was already packed up and ready to go by 5am at Soldier Lake!

I snuck out of camp without waking any of my neighbors, and headed up the trail.  It was barely beginning to get light by the time I reached the New Army Pass Trail, after half a mile or so of hiking.  I hung a left and started cruising up the long slope.  I had about 1100 feet and three miles of climbing to reach Old Army Pass.  It was nice and cool that morning and I blasted right along.

Trail sign at the junction of the Upper Rock Creek Trail and the Army Pass Trail - I was heading for the pass
Trail sign at the junction of the Upper Rock Creek Trail and the Army Pass Trail – I was headed for the pass
Heading up the high, barren valley on the Army Pass Trail - there was no water in the creek this year
Heading up the high, barren valley on the New Army Pass Trail – there was no water in the creek this year

About halfway up, the sun began peeking over the Sierra Crest, lighting up the clouds to the west.  I was happy to stay down in the cool valley in the shade, as the second half of the climb was much steeper.  I could see the sun shining on Mount Langley to the north, and I remembered when my son and I climbed it back in 2016.  That had been a really fun time.  But no side trips for me today!  My primary goal was to get home, and I refused to get distracted.  I huffed and puffed and powered my way up the trail.

And my timing was perfect, because the sun hit me just as I arrived at the pass.

Looking west toward Mount Anna Mills with dawn color in the clouds above Sequoia Park, from the Army Pass Trail
Looking west toward Mount Anna Mills with dawn color in the clouds above Sequoia Park
Close-up of a marmot who was checking me out as I walked by on the Army Pass Trail
Close-up of a marmot who was checking me out as I walked by
The Mount Langley massif in the morning sunlight from the Army Pass Trail
The Mount Langley massif in the morning sunlight
I arrived at the top of the valley on the Army Pass Trail as the morning sun broke over the mountain behind me
I arrived at the top of the valley on the Army Pass Trail as the morning sun broke over the mountain behind me

Everything would be downhill from here.  I took a few photos on Old Army Pass, but the sun was too low in the sky and I knew that the lens would show nothing but glare.  Oh well.  We photographers can’t always get the perfect lighting on every shot.  Sometimes you have to take what you get, and simply make the most of it.  So I didn’t spend long on the pass.  I wasn’t tired, and I didn’t need a break.  I continued down the unmaintained trail over the old pass and soon enough was down below at Cottonwood Lake Number Four.  The total lack of snow this year made the route quite enjoyable.

The Entering Sequoia National Park sign at Old Army Pass in the blazing light, with Cottonwood Lake Number Five, below
The “Entering Sequoia National Park sign” at Old Army Pass in the blazing light, but I was leaving the park
Cottonwood Lake Number Four and Five shining in the morning light from the summit of Old Army Pass
Cottonwood Lake Number Four and Five shining in the morning light from the summit of Old Army Pass
Cottonwood Lake Number Four reflecting in the morning light as I continued down the Old Army Pass Trail
Cottonwood Lake Number Four from down near the northern shore
Looking back at Old Army Pass over Cottonwood Lake Number Four
Looking back at Old Army Pass

The next step in my plan to Get Home Fast:  Cross the Cottonwood Lakes Basin.  It was nice and flat, so this was an easy one.  I headed down past lake number three, then took the main trail to the southeast.  Along the way, I looked back at Mount Langley, saw a gigantic Sierra Jackrabbit, and viewed lake number one in the distance.  By the time I reached the edge of the basin, I was halfway to the car, and it only took me three and a half hours.  Not bad!

Cottonwood Lake Number Three from the Cottonwood Lakes Trail
Cottonwood Lake Number Three from the Cottonwood Lakes Trail
Looking north over a large meadow in the Cottonwood Lakes Basin, with Mount Langley, left of center
Looking north over a large meadow in the Cottonwood Lakes Basin, with Mount Langley, left of center
I came upon a rarely seen Sierra Jackrabbit along the Cottonwood Lakes Trail - these rabbits are long-legged and huge!
I came upon a rarely seen Sierra Jackrabbit – these rabbits are long-legged and huge!
View of Trailmaster Peak, far left, and Cirque Peak, far right, above Cottonwood Lake Number One
View of Trailmaster Peak, far left, and Cirque Peak, far right, above Cottonwood Lake Number One

It was about a thousand feet of elevation loss from the pass to the basin, and now I had to descend another thousand to reach the trailhead.  The first section was steep, but eventually the trail ended up in the valley next to Cottonwood Creek, and there were several meadows, so the hiking was relatively flat.  And very easy.  I met up with a large group of teens/young adults.  They were hiking slowly, and really hogging up the trail.  But I was a Man On A Mission, so I wasn’t going to put up with unnecessary slowdowns.  I spoke up: “Passing on the left!” and they were happy to get out of my way.  I said thanks and told them that I was like a horse heading for the stables, and that I could smell the hamburgers and pepperoni pizza down in Lone Pine from all the way up here!  They laughed and agreed, because they’d eaten too much trail food, too!  But their pace wasn’t as brisk as mine, and it wasn’t long before I left them far behind.

Looking southeast into the Cottonwood Creek Valley from the Cottonwood Lakes Trail - this was the final stretch
Looking southeast into the Cottonwood Creek Valley – this was the final stretch
This is part of the meadow near the Golden Trout Wilderness Camp on the Cottonwood Lakes Trail
This is part of the big meadow near the Golden Trout Wilderness Camp
Trail Peak is hidden in the trees on the left, as I near the trailhead of the Cottonwood Lakes Trail
Trail Peak was hidden in the trees on the left, as I neared the trailhead in the Horseshoe Meadows Basin

I arrived at the trailhead parking lot and it was still mid-morning.  I threw my pack into the car and got out a can of soda.  I chugged it down happily.  This was simply the first taste of civilization for me that day.  I changed out my sweaty shoes and socks, which made my feet much happier.  I decided not to bother with the rest of the clothes as no one would be smelling me anyway.  I started up the car and began driving right away, heading down the big hill on Horseshoe Meadows Road toward town.  I decided to use the drive-thru at Carl’s Jr so no one would have to smell my stinky hiker-ness.  I would shower when I got home.

It was only 9am and I was already back at the Cottonwood Lakes Trail trailhead parking lot - 10 miles in five hours!
It was only 10am and I was already back at the trailhead parking lot – 10 miles in five hours!

On the way back to San Diego, I thought about the trip.  It had been quite good, for such a slapped-together trek.  It would have been better had my son been along so that we could spent a full week together, but such is life.  Next year we’d give that longer trek a try.  Meanwhile, I had made it into the memorable and beautiful Miter Basin, and I wasn’t regretting a moment of it.  Great times in the High Sierra!

 

 

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

 

  << Back to Day 3

 

 

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