Day 01: Happy Isles to Clouds Rest Junction

From JMT mile 0.0 to 6.5 Total: 6.5 miles hiked 7/30

On the first day of my John Muir Trial trek I began in Yosemite Valley, at the iconic Happy Isles Trailhead, and hiked uphill along the Merced River to Clark’s Point and Nevada Falls, and eventually camped near the Clouds Rest Trail Junction.

After several days of driving and bus riding, I was finally at the beginning of the John Muir Trail! I was seriously feeling excited. It was time to have some High Sierra fun. In the past, I arrived here at Happy Isles two times, both heading downhill. The first visit was in the early 1980’s and the second in the early 2000’s. This time I was headed uphill, and I wasn’t going to take the Mist Trail like I did before. The Mist Trail is amazing, especially in early Summer, but on this day, in late July, the high-country snow was long since melted and there wasn’t any mist to be had. Plus, the trail was closed during the day right now, as there were trail crews repairing it. Which was fine by me. The John Muir Trail was not the Mist Trail. If I was going to properly hike the JMT then I wasn’t going to begin it by avoiding the official trail.

Selfie at the Happy Isles Trailhead, at 11am - it was time to begin my 211-mile John Muir Trail hike! — Selfie at the Happy Isles Trailhead, at 11am – it was time to begin my 211-mile John Muir Trail hike!

Even though I only planned to hike a bit over six miles, the trail still climbed an awful lot. According to the Far Out app, I would be ascending roughly 3400 feet. Now that’s getting right down to business! Here in the Valley, at 4000 feet elevation, the weather was hot. It often reached 100 degrees during heat waves. Today was better, in the upper 80’s, but it was still toasty. I couldn’t wait to get up higher where the air was cool. So up the trail I went.

The first mile of the John Muir Trail is very busy with day-hikers, is very wide, and much of it is paved — The first mile of the John Muir Trail was very busy with day-hikers, was very wide, and much of it was paved

It was roasting so I went into Shorts Mode for the initial climb toward Nevada Falls — It was roasting hot so I went into “Shorts Mode” for the initial climb toward Nevada Falls

There were tons of tourists and day-hikers on this trail. It was wide and well-maintained. With my heavy backpack, almost everybody passed me, but I didn’t care. Much. The trail paralleled the Merced River, all the way up beyond Nevada Falls. When the trail first crossed the river on a footbridge, there were signs warning that this was the Last Water until the falls. Apparently, many people hiked this trail without sufficient water. Easy to do on a 100 degree day! Meanwhile, not far away was the closed gate to the Mist Trail, plus a park ranger to make sure that no one ventured that way. By accident.

As the JMT gets past Sierra Point, the view of Yosemite Valley is gone and so is the cell signal — As the JMT passed Sierra Point, the view of Yosemite Valley was gone and so was the cell signal

This is the last water sign for tourists on their way to Nevada Falls on the John Muir Trail — This is the last water sign for tourists on their way to Nevada Falls

The mist Trail was closed but that's OK because I wanted to take the John Muir Trail to Nevada Falls — The mist Trail was closed but that was OK because I wanted to take the John Muir Trail anyway

The Mist Trail was closed for repairs but I didn't care as I wanted to hike the JMT to Nevada Falls — The Mist Trail was closed by trail crews for repairs during mid-day hours

After taking a break at the bridge, it was time to keep on climbing. I hiked one mile so far, and there were two to go to reach Nevada Falls, much of it on switchbacks, with steady climbing. I met some nice folks along the way, and we talked, mostly about my big trek, while resting at convenient spots that had both shade and views. But for the most part, I just maintained my pace, sweated profusely, and didn’t let my heart rate get too high. Older hikers like me have to think about that. He who slows his hike today, lives to hike another day.

There were plenty of tourists dayhiking to Nevada Falls — There were plenty of dayhikers – they were faster than me and my 35 pound backpack!

Selfie looking back down toward Yosemite Valley from the JMT on the way to Nevada Falls — Selfie looking back down the Merced River Valley toward Yosemite Valley

It took me some time, but eventually I reached Clark Point. There was a trail intersection there, and also the most excellent of views. A natural rest stop on the trail. I checked my map. Somewhere down below me on the Mist Trail was Vernal Falls, but I never got to see it. Sad but true. Meanwhile, Nevada Falls was on display off to the right. It was spectacular, but it was having a tough time competing with the views of Half Dome and Liberty Cap.

View of Half Dome from the JMT below Nevada Falls – I would be up there tomorrow morning!

Half Dome, Mount Broderick, and Liberty Cap (8836, 6706, and 7076 feet elevation) from the JMT — Half Dome, Mount Broderick, and Liberty Cap (8836, 6706, and 7076 feet elevation)

Zoomed-in view of Nevada Falls from JMT mile 2.0 at Clark Point — Zoomed-in view of Nevada Falls from JMT mile 2.0 near Clark Point

Rusty Yosemite Trail Sign on the John Muir Trail - next stop is Nevada Falls — Rusty Yosemite Trail Sign – they made these in the 1950’s!

I only took about a zillion photos and videos at Clark Point. Luckily for you, I only included a few of them here. These should be enough to make you want to hike up this excellent trail, even as a day hiker.

Clark Point was a natural rest stop on the way to Nevada Falls

View back down toward Yosemite Valley as I hiked uphill on the JMT — View back down toward Yosemite Valley while I took a short break

Liberty Cap and Nevada Falls from just beyond Clark Point on the JMT — Liberty Cap and Nevada Falls from just beyond Clark Point

I never put down my pack at Clark Point, as I wanted to keep hiking, to reach the next rest stop at the top of Nevada Falls. This final piece of trail didn’t climb very much, but it had been chopped into the side of a cliff long ago, probably using dynamite. They liked explosions back in the good old days. But I’m grateful, as it was a fun section of trail to hike, with fine views all the way.

The JMT hugs the edge of a cliff as it heads from Clark Point toward Nevada Falls — The trail hugged the edge of a cliff as it headed from Clark Point toward Nevada Falls

On this hot day having water drip down on the trail was a relief, from the JMT near Nevada Falls — On this hot day, having water drip down on me was a relief

I soon arrived at Nevada Falls. I set down my backpack in the shade, and got out my Pop-Tart for lunch. I was about halfway to camp, so it was a good spot for a break. I walked over to the rail and the footbridge. I took a ton of photos. Waterfalls are typically less fun to look at from the top, and Nevada Falls was no exception. The view from Clark Point was the best one of all. Except maybe for the one down below it, on the Mist Trail. Meanwhile, there were day hikers everywhere. Many of them were hanging out on the glaciated granite slabs along the river.

I arrived at Nevada Falls, which is just to the left of the footbridge

Everyone stopped for a long break near the footbridge above Nevada Falls — Everyone stopped for a long break near the footbridge above the falls

This late in the Summer the Merced River above Nevada Falls was much less dangerous to swimmers — This late in the Summer the Merced River above the falls was much less dangerous to swimmers

Looking back at the footbridge above Nevada Falls — Looking back at the footbridge and safety railing above Nevada Falls

There were metal railings all along the river and next to the cliff, embedded into the stone. The park really tried to help people avoid dying. And it wasn’t only because it was difficult to haul out the broken bodies down at the base of the falls. It seems like every year at least one person misjudges the current and gets swept away to their death. Sad but true. Today, not surprisingly, there were plenty of people on the wrong side of the railings, playing in the wide pool above the falls. Apparently, all the Warning Signs on earth weren’t enough to prevent Darwin’s Law from taking its toll.

Yes, the park had to put up a sign to warn hikers about the dangers of tall waterfalls - sad but true — Yes, the park had to put up a sign to warn hikers about the dangers of tall waterfalls – sad but true

Looking down at Nevada Falls, with hikers on the Mist Trail down below — Looking down at Nevada Falls, with hikers on the Mist Trail far below

In the Spring, snowmelt makes this calm pool a danger, but not now, above Nevada Falls — In the Spring, snowmelt makes this calm pool a danger, but not now

I put my pack on and continued up the trail. There was a trail sign saying that Mount Whitney was a mere 215 miles away! (The sign said 211 down at Happy Isles.) But more importantly, Tuolumne Meadows was seventeen miles from there, and that was the location of my next food resupply. Hikers tend to think with their stomachs. There was also a notice for Half Dome Hikers, reminding them that they’d better have a valid Half Dome Permit. Amazingly enough, two days ago I applied for a permit and scored one! Supposedly, there was only a fifteen percent chance of getting one, and I couldn’t believe my luck. So that became tomorrow morning’s primary destination.

Trail signs just beyond Nevada Falls at JMT mile 3.4, leading to Half Dome and Mount Whitney (215 miles!) — Trail signs after the falls at JMT mile 3.4, leading to Half Dome

The next one mile of JMT was similarly paved in stone, on the way to Little Yosemite Valley — The next mile of JMT was paved with annoying stones

Looking east across the Merced River Valley after climbing past Nevada Falls on the JMT — Looking east across the Merced River Valley after climbing toward the Half Dome Trail

After another mile I neared the side trail to the Little Yosemite Valley hiker campground. I stayed here twice before on my way down to the valley. This was a known location for nuisance bears. They prowled the area every night, hoping to snag some food from hapless campers. I remember listening, late at night, as people yelled at the bears and banged pots to drive them from their campsites. You could tell where the bear was by the direction and intensity of the yelling. And that’s why I wasn’t camping there today. Too many people and too much bear-induced drama. I hiked onward, with my goal the next legal spot where I could camp, about a half mile beyond the side trail to Half Dome, at the Clouds Rest Trail Junction.

I didn't bother heading to the Backpackers Camp at Little Yosemite Valley - I hiked onward — I didn’t bother heading to the bear-infested Little Yosemite Valley campground – I hiked on

View of Half Dome and the subdome from the JMT near Little Yosemite Valley

Tall pines in the afternoon light as I climb the switchbacks toward the Half Dome Trail on the JMT — Tall pines in the afternoon light as I climbed the switchbacks toward the Half Dome Trail

At the Half Dome Trail junction, there were signs warning you not to leave your backpack here. Bears learned long ago that northbound JMT hikers left their packs here in order to slackpack up to the summit. Backpacks are often full of food, and the bears simply dragged the packs away into the forest, where they could destroy them at their leisure, in the quest for an easy meal.

Warning to Half Dome hikers about leaving backpacks here - Bears love backpacks! — Warning to Half Dome hikers about leaving backpacks here – Bears love backpacks!

View of Half Dome and the subdome from the JMT near the Clouds Rest Trail Junction

At JMT mile 6.5 I arrived at the Clouds Rest Trail Junction. I paused at the intersection to speak with another hiker who set up his tent nearby. His name was Bob, and was about my age. He, too, was doing the full JMT. And he, too, was going to be climbing Half Dome in the morning. We were both really stoked about that. We got to talking, and decided to hike up together, first thing in the morning, at 6am. After the big climb was done, we were both going to hike a few miles further up the JMT and find a campsite.

Then I wandered around the area for a while, searching for my own campsite. I chose one up on the flat ridge nearby. I had a neighbor not far away, a young guy named Chris. I was destined to meet him many times over the next three weeks. I didn’t know that, or I would have taken his photo right away. Along with Bob’s.

Filtering water from the small creek near my camp at the Clouds Rest Trail Junction — Gravity-filtering water from the small creek near camp

My Big Agnes Copper Spur UL1 tent in the evening sunshine along the JMT — My Big Agnes Copper Spur UL1 tent in the evening sunshine – I was happy to get inside!

After setting up my tent and filtering water, I got out my stove and cooked a bowl of ramen noodles. That’s my standard dinner these days. It only took a cup of hot water and a short wait for the noodles to swell. Easy and salty, exactly what I needed after a long hot day of hiking.

Once I was dressed for the night and in my sleeping bag, I took some notes on my phone and updated my Caltopo map with my exact location and daily hiking stats. I sent out a text using my Garmin InReach satellite transponder telling Vicki, my wife, that I was safe and tired and missed her already. All of which were true. I read my kindle until I got tired, which didn’t take long, and set my alarm for 4am. Half Dome was tomorrow, and I was seriously excited about it.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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