Day 15: Forester Pass to Kearsarge Lakes

From PCT mile 779.9 to 789.7 Total: 11.9 miles 7/7

On my 15th day hiking the Sierra Section, I climbed up and over Forester Pass, at 13,200 feet elevation, continued north through the Bubbs Creek valley, climbed yet again to the Bullfrog Lake Trail turnoff, and headed east to the Kearsarge Lakes area, as I was nearly out of food. I planned to slackpack over Kearsarge Pass the next day to retrieve my resupply cache in Onion Valley and be back on the PCT by nightfall.

I woke up that morning just after 3am and started my usual routine of eating, dressing, and packing. I wanted to reach the top of the pass early, so the snow on the north side would be icy, but not so early that there wouldn’t be any light for photos. This is a photojournal, after all, and “photo” is the prefix of the word. But I will admit that it was barely dawn when I left, and my headlamp wasn’t merely turned on; it was actively lighting the trail! So up the hill I climbed.

My campsite below Forester Pass at 5am, with alpenglow in the distant mountains to the south

Forester Pass is 700 feet above me as I start out on the one mile climb in the pre-dawn light — Forester Pass was 700 feet above me as I started out on the one mile climb

The hiking was slow and steady, with many switchbacks. This southern face of Forester Pass was particularly steep compared to the north side, where the land sloped away more gradually. This trail was really hacked right out of the near-vertical granite headwall of Tyndall Creek Canyon. The views of the high lakes below me got better as I climbed, and soon the light of sunrise began striking the eastern sides of Caltech Peak and the distant Kaweah Range. It was a great morning to be in the Sierra.

Dawn alpenglow on Caltech Peak with reflections in a high tarn as I climb up to Forester Pass — Dawn alpenglow on Caltech Peak with reflections in a high tarn

Dawn alpenglow on the mountains to the south from the Pacific Crest Trail near Forester Pass — Dawn light on the mountains to the south

There was still a bit of residual snow on the south side of Forester Pass, but it was no longer a problem — There was still a bit of residual snow, but it wasn’t a problem

There were plenty of switchbacks on the final approach to Forester Pass on the PCT — There were plenty of switchbacks on the way up

The first light of dawn was in the sky and I was still making the long climb to Forester Pass — The first light of dawn was in the sky and I was still making the long climb

I wasn’t exactly blazing a trail up that hill, but the air was cool and I was hiking steadily. I felt good. Soon, I was nearing the most interesting part of the climb, where the trail was truly hacked out of the cliff, possibly using dynamite in the olden days. It traveled west, crossing the scary chute of loose scree and residual snow, just below the pass itself.

Steep, short, stone switchbacks were needed to climb the south face of Forester Pass — Steep, short, stone switchbacks were needed to climb the more vertical wall of granite

Dawn light shining in through the gap at Forester Pass, while I hiked uphill on the long final switchback — Dawn light shining in through the gap at Forester Pass, from the long final switchback

I was still wearing my headlamp, hoping that the others down below might see me as I reached the pass — I was still wearing my headlamp, hoping that the others down below might see me up there

I came down this trail on my way to Mount Whitney back in 2018, and I knew that the long traversing switchback was the most exciting part. This time, I got out my GoPro camera and filmed the event as I hiked along. Luckily, I waited long enough this Summer that the snow was no longer a danger. Note that the wide-angle GoPro also makes it look more exposed than it really is. The trail was plenty wide enough to hike on safely. Not that you shouldn’t pay careful attention to avoid falling off the edge by accident! There are no handrails in the Wilderness, after all, and the risks are yours to dare.

A few short weeks ago, that snow tongue below Forester Pass still crossed the PCT, but not any longer — A few weeks ago, that snow tongue in the chute below the pass still crossed the PCT, but no longer

GoPro photo showing the final long switchback that crosses under the south side of Forester Pass

Interestingly, the trail builders decided that it would be easier to add a few extra shorty switchbacks on the western side of the pass. These led up and over a bump to reach the true pass, where the signs were placed which denote the boundary between Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. Once again, I whipped out the GoPro and videoed everything. I was also taking photos with my phone camera at the same time! No, I didn’t use hiking poles – there were too many awesome views to document!

Wide angle view looking south from the Pacific Crest Trail just below Forester Pass — Wide angle view looking south as I neared the pass

I came into view of the official Forester Pass trail sign after climbing a few final switchbacks

View south, down the chute toward the Tyndall Creek Basin, from Forester Pass — View south, down the chute toward the Tyndall Creek Basin

The opposite side of the sign showed that Sequoia National Park lies to the south of Forester Pass — Sign showing that Sequoia National Park lies to the south of Forester Pass (Kern River watershed)

The sun hit me full blast as I arrived at the pass. It was exciting to know that I was at the highest point on the PCT. Of course, I was also on the JMT, whose highest point is Whitney’s summit, but that’s merely a detail. This was one of those places that is truly memorable, so I took off my pack for a quick break. I looked down toward my morning’s camp, and there was Felipe (and the others) still getting ready to start. Yes, I got the jump on them, but I knew they’d catch me soon enough, as they were younger and faster. I’m older and trickier, and I need less sleep than they do.

Kings Canyon National Park sign at Forester Pass, the highest point on the Pacific Crest Trail, at 13,200 ft — Kings Canyon National Park sign at Forester Pass, the highest point on the PCT, at 13,200 ft

View north into the Bubbs Creek Basin from Forester Pass at dawn — View north into the Bubbs Creek Basin (part of the Kings River watershed)

Life wouldn't be complete without taking a selfie on the highest point on the PCT — Life wouldn’t be complete without taking a selfie on the highest point on the PCT

Thanks to the bright sunlight, I knew that I couldn’t stay on the pass very long. I had been carrying a pound of MicroSpikes in my backpack, and I fully intended to put them to use! That, of course, was the real reason I woke up so early. MicroSpikes work best on crunchy, icy snow. Once it gets slushy via melting they are rendered essentially useless. I knew about the few remaining snow patches up here, and I knew that they would refreeze overnight. The trick was to arrive early enough to use the spikes, which are actually kind of fun.

I admit it - I woke up this early so that I could use my microspikes on properly frozen, crunchy snow! — I admit it – I woke up this early so that I could use my Microspikes on properly frozen, crunchy snow!

Looking back up at Forester Pass, showing the route through the mostly-melted snow — Looking back up at the pass, showing the route through the mostly-melted snow

Large sun-cupped snowfield below Forester Pass on the north side - luckily the PCT doesn't go there! — Large sun-cupped snowfield below the north side of the pass – luckily the PCT doesn’t go there!

After the excitement was over, I took off my pack, hung the spikes to dry on a strap, then continued onward down the trail. Soon, I came upon another melting snowbank, a cornice on a broad ridge. This time, like a fool, I decided that it was too short to bother putting the spikes back on. Wrong! It only looked short. I ended up balancing carefully in icy suncup depressions for far too long. It was a risk I shouldn’t have taken, in retrospect, although my balance was good and nothing went wrong. The snow was only starting to get slushy, but was still too icy in shady spots. Scary but true.

Switchbacks leading down from Forester Pass in the morning light

The PCT crossed a cornice of snow as it followed a ridgeline down from Forester Pass — The PCT crossed a cornice of snow as it followed a ridgeline

I should have put on my microspikes for this cornice of snow, but luckily I used the suncups to balance — I should have put on my Microspikes for this cornice of snow, but luckily I used the suncups to balance

After that, I paused for a few minutes, to get my attitude back into shape. I took a number of photos of the distant mountains to the north. This was the time to do it, while I was still up this high. You don’t hike at 13,000 feet very often, so use it while you’ve got it!

Looking down the Bubbs Creek Valley from the PCT, with University Peak (13595 ft) right of center — Looking down into the Bubbs Creek Valley, with University Peak (13595 ft) right of center

Peakfinder Earth overlay on the view north from Forester Pass — Peakfinder Earth overlay detailing the view north

I continued downhill into the valley. I had about 3600 feet to descend over the next eight miles, and it was going to take me at least four hours.

The final snowbank was much shorter, but this time I put on the spikes and was happier for it. Sliding down the hillside into rocks, without an ice axe to self arrest, would have been a bad idea. But the spikes and my walking stick did wonders. I passed by the large lake below the pass, and also another smaller tarn. It was very beautiful, and the air was still cool and fresh.

Clear post-glacial tarn below Forester Pass with the PCT-JMT heading down into Bubbs Creek — Clear post-glacial tarn below the pass with the PCT-JMT heading down into the valley

Icy tarn on the north side of Forester Pass with crystal clear water — Icy tarn with crystal clear water

The trail continued down through the above-treeline tundra vegetation, and it was smooth and cruisey. Easy hiking. There was still enough snowmelt to keep the creek running, although crossing it was trivial this high in the canyon. I remembered coming uphill on this trail, and I enjoyed climbing it. Descending was even better.

Down below me was another plateau of tundra-like plants, far above the treeline

Looking back up the trail, with Forester Pass on the far left

Shot of stepped granite cascades on Bubbs Creek at Pacific Crest Trail mile 783 — Shot of stepped granite cascades on Bubbs Creek at PCT mile 783

This pond would make a great spot to camp, if it happened at the end of a long day of hiking

Eventually, of course, I began to tire, even on a great trail. I stopped for an extended break, and let my socks dry out a bit. I read my Kindle and enjoyed the view. Soon, I would be entering the forested section of trail below 11,000 feet, but right now the sun was rising and I was getting warm. I was getting ready to start my mid-day shade-hopping hiking style, where I walk extra fast in the sun and pause for breath in shady patches.

I took my first break at 9am after four hours of hiking, and sat down directly on the trail in the shade

As the Pacific Crest Trail dropped down into the Bubbs Creek valley, I eventually made it below treeline — As the trail dropped down into the valley, I eventually made it below treeline

Felipe finally caught up to me along the way, thanks to my long rest in the shade

After Felipe passed me, I decided to take yet another extended break to do a bit of fly fishing in Bubbs Creek. I was only hiking twelve miles at most today, so I had time enough for fun. I spotted a big boulder next to a deep pool on the creek, and knew that this was the place. My new PCT Sierra Trout Guide indicated that there should be Golden-Rainbow hybrid trout living here. Time to put the hypothesis to the test!

GoPro shot of me on my wonderful fishing rock near a deep calm pool on Bubbs Creek — GoPro shot of me on my wonderful fishing rock near a deep calm pool

I caught a small Golden-Rainbow Hybrid Trout in Bubbs Creek, and let it go again unharmed — I caught a small Golden-Rainbow Hybrid Trout , and let it go again unharmed

I caught a fish within five minutes, then decided that this was enough. I wasn’t eating them, after all. That was Vicki’s job, but she was at home this trip. Twelve to fifteen mile days with lots of climbing weren’t her forte, so we parted ways for a time this Summer.

After that, it was time to continue downhill along the creek, which by this time had been growing larger with the cumulative sum of all the side-creeks tumbling down from the steep canyon walls and valleys. It was roaring, and I was glad that the trail didn’t have to cross it.

Cascading waterfall in Bubbs Creek along the Pacific Crest Trail — Cascading waterfall in Bubbs Creek

Bubbs Creek pouring over granite slabs near PCT mile 788

It was a bit past noon when I reached the campsites near Vidette Meadow, so I stopped for a lunchbreak in the shade. This was one of the old-time camps along the JMT, and still had a big steel bear box for food. Nowadays, all backpackers are required to carry their own bear canisters, so these boxes are redundant. I remembered meeting a short French hiker in the late 90’s who swore that he slept (curled up) in the bear boxes during thunderstorms! Crazy but true.

Near this camp, taped to the official trail sign was a note from the local backcountry ranger, about bears. Apparently there was a “nuisance bear” hanging out here and in in the Kearsarge Lakes area, which was where I was headed. “Great!” I thought. “Just what I needed!” The Ranger’s Words of Wisdom were as follows:

“If you see a bear, chase it like you are going to catch it and eat it. They will run away in terror. Loud noises can help, but only sorta work on their own.”

Well, at least I knew what to do. Loud noises used to be good enough, but no longer. It was time for us hikers to become the scary ones! Total role reversal. For some odd reason, I liked this idea.

I arrived at the large camping area above Vidette Meadow where the PCT meets the Rae Lakes Loop Trail — The large camping area above Vidette Meadow where the PCT meets the Rae Lakes Loop Trail

Trail signs where the Rae Lakes Loop trail heads down Bubbs Creek toward Roads End at PCT mile 789 — Where the Rae Lakes Loop trail heads toward Roads End at PCT mile 789

Ranger note about the bear causing trouble at the Kearsarge Lakes area - chase it like you want to eat it! — Ranger note about the bear at the Kearsarge Lakes – Chase it like you want to eat it!

After that, I continued beyond the trail junction, where my climb out of Bubbs Creek began. It was going to be a long hot climb in the afternoon sun. I knew that this would happen when I planned this hike, but it didn’t make it any easier. Along the way, I got better views up the Bubbs Creek Canyon that I just descended. I also met up with Felipe one last time. He was planning on hiking all the way out to Onion Valley today, in order to take a full Zero Day and meet his father, for a stay in Lone Pine. I was popping over Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley tomorrow morning and would be hiking back to the PCT the same day, after picking up my food resupply, so there was little likelihood that we would meet again on the trail. I said so long, and we promised to email each other afterward. (And we did!)

Looking back up the Bubbs Creek Valley with East Vidette on the right and Center Peak, center — Looking back up the Bubbs Creek Valley with East Vidette on the right and Center Peak, distant center

I said goodbye to Felipe (and a Danish couple) as he was taking a zero day and I would be hiking onward — I said goodbye to Felipe as he was taking a zero day to meet his dad

View south from PCT mile 790 of Center Peak, East Vidette, Deerhorn Mountain, and West Vidette

I left the PCT, and had three miles to hike on the Bullfrog Lake Trail to the Kearsarge Lakes

I left the main trail at the top of the hill at PCT mile 790, and turned right (east) onto the Bullfrog Lake Trail, which stayed down in the Kearsarge Basin. The first stop was Bullfrog Lake itself. After years of overuse, camping was banned within a quarter mile of this lake. So now it was quite pristine, and perfect for tent-free photo-ops.

Small fishless pond between the PCT and Bullfrog Lake on the Bullfrog Lake Trail

Bullfrog Lake appeared as I topped a ridge, and Kearsarge Pass was visible on the left

Bullfrog Lake, Kearsarge Pinnacle Number 12, and the two Videttes from the Bullfrog Lake Trail

This time, I didn’t stop to fish in the lake, as I had already done that two years earlier, back in 2022. My primary goal at this point was to make it to a campsite at the Kearsarge Lakes. Naturally, after hiking around the lake, the trail was uphill all the way in the hot sun. I trudged along, pausing in the shade of the occasional pine tree, and eventually remembered to turn around and check out the fine view of Bullfrog Lake from further up the basin. Nice!

It was a long gradual climb to the Kearsarge Lakes on the Bullfrog Lake Trail — It was a long gradual climb to the Kearsarge Lakes through the basin

Looking back at Bullfrog Lake and Mount Bago (11834 ft) from the Bullfrog Lake Trail — Looking back at Bullfrog Lake and Mount Bago (11834 ft)

The final climb to Kearsarge Pass was tomorrow’s problem, so I headed downhill on the small side trail toward the nearest of the Kearsarge Lakes. I’ve camped there several times, and it was a popular spot. Not only is it a single-day destination for weekenders, it’s also a great spot for trout fishermen, as the lakes are full of Brookies. I wandered around the upper end of the lake looking for a campsite, rather than hike further, because I had to hike out early the next morning. I found a spot in the shade of a low pine and set up camp. I’m not gonna lie when I say that it was a relief to take off my backpack.

Peak 12423 towers above the first of the Kearsarge Lakes - this is a popular area with many campsites — Peak 12423 towers above one of the Kearsarge Lakes – It’s a popular area with many campsites

I set up my tent in the afternoon shade, filtered water from the lake, and got ready for a peaceful night

One of the lady hikers from last night’s camp ended up right near me, so we said hello and talked about resupplies. She had never been here before, so I told her how pretty the trail was over the pass to Onion Valley, with its chain of lakes and fine views. While I spoke, I saw movement out of the corner of my eye. It was the bear! It was sidling along near our sites, eyeballing our gear for a chance to steal some food. Bad bear! Its fur was all patchy, as if it was half-shedded, and it really was a sorry sight. It also seemed kind of sheepish, like it knew that what it was doing was wrong, but it couldn’t help itself. That was my impression. But that didn’t matter. I remembered the note from the Ranger, and I immediately implemented the advice. I raised my arms and waved them over my head, yelling “Yaaahhhh!!!” as I charged toward the bear, intent on eating it! And, amazingly enough, it ran away! This encouraged me greatly, as you might imagine. I decided that the best idea was to keep on chasing it until it was very far away. I knew that there were more campers elsewhere along the lake, but at a certain distance I felt that my work was done. The bear was somebody else’s problem now.

The Ranger's Note about the bear was correct - I chased it like I was going to eat it, and it left me alone — The Ranger’s Note about the bear was correct – I chased it like I was going to eat it, and it left me alone

My neighbor was still sitting in her tent when I returned. I guess she wasn’t interested in grilled bear meat. But she was still thankful that the bear was gone, and both of us made sure of our food storage that evening, by securely closing our bear-proof canisters.

Sunset light on the Kearsarge Lakes, with Peak 12423 across the way — Sunset light on the peaks above one of the Kearsarge Lakes

After that excitement, I was truly tired. I sat down in the tent and cooked up my last dinner of ramen noodles, and munched on some salty chips. Tomorrow I would get resupplied with another six days of food, so anything left in the can was fair game. I munched what I could and went to sleep with a full belly. Tomorrow I would wake up early, as it was going to be a very full day of hiking, and I was looking forward to visiting Kearsarge Pass and Onion Valley once again.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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