Day 10: Chicken Spring Lake

From PCT mile 746.5 to 752.0 Total: 7.7 miles 7/2

It was early July, and I was ready to restart my Sierra Section where I left off, at Trail Pass, now that the high country snows were melted and the mosquitoes were out in full force. My car was 200 PCT miles away, in distant Yosemite, and it was up to me to hike all that way to reach it. After spending the past two days taking buses and shuttles, I was back in Horseshoe Meadows, at the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead, with a full load of food. It was already noon, and I was excited to have a short hiking day to reach Chicken Spring Lake.

Me at the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead, with clean clothes and no whiskers - that would soon change! — Me at the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead, with clean clothes and no whiskers – that would soon change!

Selfie with the Golden Trout Wilderness sign on the Cottonwood Pass Trail near Horseshoe Meadows — Selfie with the Golden Trout Wilderness sign on the Cottonwood Pass Trail

Of course, I could have made the hike even shorter, by heading directly for Cottonwood Pass, but that would be cheating. I left the PCT at Trail Pass last month, and I would restart it in the same spot. True, I had already hiked this short section between Trail and Cottonwood Passes, back in 2017, but that was a poor excuse for slacking off. In fact, I’d already hiked the entire Pacific Crest Trail through the High Sierra over the years, but I was more than happy to do it again. I admit it: I’ve become a Certified Sierra Lover. Join the club! The dues are paid with leg-power and rewarded with limitless beauty.

I decided to take a left and return to where I left off hiking last month due to snow, to Trail Pass — I decided to take a left and return to where I left off hiking last month (due to snow) at Trail Pass

Trail Pass is the low spot across the green grasses of Horseshoe Meadows

Crossing the South Fork Cottonwood Creek on the Trail Pass Trail in Horseshoe Meadows — Crossing the South Fork Cottonwood Creek on the Trail Pass Trail

I headed left and took the Trail Pass Trail across the sunny meadow. The creek was flowing much lower now, since much of the snow was melted, and was easier to hop. After that, there was a 600 foot climb through the rocky forest to the pass. It felt good to hike in the cool air after experiencing the roasting temperatures down in Lone Pine, 6000 feet below. I arrived at the pass after an enjoyable hour of hiking, even with my heavy backpack full of food. Now it was time to do the real miles, the ones that counted, on the PCT itself.

The Trail Pass Trail made its way up to the pass through granite boulders in a pine forest

After a two mile hike from Horseshoe Meadows to Trail Pass I arrived at the PCT, at mile 747 — After a two mile hike from the trailhead to the pass I arrived back on the PCT, at mile 747

PCT hikers often re-label trail signs because many make wrong turns due to dependence on phone apps

I was up at 10,500 feet elevation, and the sky was ultra-blue. Vicki and I call this color “10k Blue” and you have to see it to believe it. I had five miles to hike, and 600 feet more to climb, in order to reach Cottonwood Pass. At first the trail swung to the east, traversing around Trail Peak, and the views were fine, largely looking down on Horseshoe Meadows, or off to Mount Langley in the north.

Looking east toward lower Horseshoe Meadows from the Pacific Crest Trail near Trail Peak

Zoomed-in view of Mount Langley (14025 feet) from the PCT near Trail Peak — Zoomed-in view of Mount Langley (14025 feet) to the north

The PCT then crossed the Sierra Crest to the west, at a saddle above Poison Meadow. I wonder how it got that name. On that side, the views were still great, but this time I looked down at Mulkey Meadow and south to Olancha Peak, which I climbed over a few weeks back during Part One of my Summer Trek. I was as high or higher than that right now. And I would be quite a bit higher soon enough. On the way, I hiked through a forest of Foxtail Pines and across high meadows.

I was having a great day, with zero acclimation issues, and that’s always a plus. Spending the past two night above 8000 feet was paying off. For the first time ever, I asked my doctor for a prescription of acetazolamide (brand name Diamox) because I would be climbing Mount Whitney (14,505 ft) three days from now. I had yet to take any of the pills, however. If I was going to do it I should’ve started it by now, but I wasn’t feeling confident. When I read the drug’s side effects my confidence in the medicine dropped, as they were almost identical to the symptoms of Altitude Sickness! Sad but true. And the worst one was the skin’s sensitivity to light. Here I was, with nearly half the UV-absorbing atmosphere far below me! No, it wasn’t making me thrilled. Anyway, I was feeling good thus far, and I would probably be fine. After all, I had climbed Mount Whitney twice already! And I never did take it, so I can’t speak as to the side effects, but I still had to carry it in my heavy backpack. Not to worry: It was light, and merely another tiny straw on this overloaded camel’s back.

View south over Mulkey Meadow from the PCT near Trail Peak, with Olancha Peak (12132 ft) on the left — View south over Mulkey Meadow, with Olancha Peak (12132 ft) on the left

Typical Southern Sierra pines with sandy soil and granite boulders - life at 11,000 feet elevation — Typical Southern Sierra pines with sandy soil and granite boulders – life at 11,000 feet elevation

High meadow on the Pacific Crest Trail, at mile 750

Looking west from the PCT - this meadow is the headwaters of the South Fork Kern River — Looking west from the PCT – this meadow is the headwaters of the South Fork Kern River

After a couple more hours on the trail, I arrived at Cottonwood Pass, at 11,140 feet elevation. Last month there was a ton of snow here, with a large cornice, and Chicken Spring Lake was still mostly frozen! I was glad I waited longer at home. Hiking in snow might be character-building (I’d done it before) but I was already enough of a character as it was! Anyway, I took off my pack for a quick break, and walked over to the top to take some photos. This was my final view of Horseshoe Meadows, and from up there you could see both “horseshoes” if you knew what to look for.

My destination, Chicken Spring Lake, resides in that bowl below Trailmaster Peak (12336 ft)

The Pacific Crest Trail approaches Cottonwood Pass at mile 751 — The Pacific Crest Trail approached Cottonwood Pass at mile 751

Trail Signs at Cottonwood Pass (11140 feet elevation) - I would be heading on the northbound PCT — Trail Signs at Cottonwood Pass (11140 feet elevation) – I would be heading on the northbound PCT

View east over Horseshoe Meadows (which look like two horseshoes) from Cottonwood Pass — View east over Horseshoe Meadows (which look like two giant horseshoes) from Cottonwood Pass

It was only a half mile further to Chicken Spring Lake, situated in a granite bowl up at 11,242 feet elevation. I took the side trail off the PCT and looked around for a decent campsite. There were already plenty of hikers camping there. Entering at Cottonwood Pass was one of many possible ways of doing a northbound John Muir Trail trek, as it was easier to get a permit here than it was to get one at Whitney Portal. My own Wilderness Permit was for Cottonwood Pass, as a matter of fact. True, I hiked to Trail Pass first, but I started out at the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead. I think that’s legal. But I don’t care. I’m not a fan of quotas, or permits, although I understand the logic behind them. I feel that keeping citizens from camping on their own public land is going a bit too far, that’s all. OK, rant over. Anyway, I set up my tent a bit further from the main trail than all the other hikers, hoping for a bit of solitude during my first night on the trail. And it worked!

The Pacific Crest Trail continued to climb for the next half mile until the side trail to Chicken Spring Lake — The trail continued to climb for the next half mile until the side path to Chicken Spring Lake

It was late afternoon when I arrived at Chicken Spring Lake, at PCT mile 752, and I needed a campsite — It was late afternoon when I arrived at the lake, at PCT mile 752, and I needed a campsite

My tent and campsite at Chicken Spring Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail — My tent and campsite at Chicken Spring Lake, at 11242 feet elevation

I didn’t really need it, but I decided to filter two liters of water out of the lake. The next stretch of trail was a bit high and dry, if I remembered correctly, and I like the security of having plenty of water. Even if it meant carrying more weight. To each his own. This would be enough for dinner and breakfast, and leave a bit extra for tomorrow’s hike.

I decided to filter some lake water with my new Platypus Quickdraw filter - much faster than a Sawyer — I filtered lake water with my new Platypus Quickdraw filter – much faster!

The dark cloud to the north was probably generated by Mount Whitney, which makes its own weather — The dark cloud to the north was generated by Mount Whitney, which makes its own weather

As I cooked dinner I heard some distant thunder to the north, possibly near Mount Whitney. In the Sierra, any afternoon with puffy cumulus clouds could turn into a sudden thunderstorm. As I sat there, munching on my ramen noodles, a couple of tiny drops hit the tent, but it wasn’t enough to worry about. Soon afterward, the skies cleared up, the sun went down, and the stars came out. Or they would have if I hadn’t already been sleeping.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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