Day 08: Horseshoe Meadows and Snow

From PCT mile 744.2 to 746.5 Total: 4.5 miles 6/01

My eighth day hiking the Sierra Section was also the final day of Part 1, when I left the trail temporarily (waiting at home for the snow to finish melting) by hiking from Dutch Meadow Spring to Trail Pass and down to my car at Horseshoe Meadows.

I only had about five miles or so to hike that day, but I still woke up in the dark to leave camp early.  I’m not sure why, but that’s just me.  And I discovered that it was seriously cold up there!  This made me glad that I hadn’t camped down below at Dutch Meadow Spring right next to the meadow.  There was probably ice and frost all over the meadow, at a much colder temperature.  I also decided not to bother cooking breakfast.  I ate my lunchtime Pop-Tart instead.  Then I changed clothing as quickly as possible, using my sleeping bag to pre-heat the clothes before donning them.  This works!  Keeps the bare skin to a minimum.

It was 31 degrees that morning at 10,000 feet elevation near Dutch Meadow Spring
It was 31 degrees that morning at 10,000 feet elevation
I had five miles to hike to reach my car at Horseshoe Meadows, so I left camp before dawn, as usual
I had five miles to hike to reach my car at Horseshoe Meadows, so I left camp before dawn

It was cold enough that I hiked with my jacket and gloves, and I was glad that the trail started climbing immediately.  Now that’s the way to warm up in the morning!  I only had 2.3 miles to hike on the PCT itself, and another 2.2 down to the car, so I wasn’t worried about making good time.  Plus, I had almost no food left in my backpack; it was about as light as it was going to get.  In other words, I was blasting up the trail.

The PCT climbed yet again on the way to Mulkey Pass, but it was cool that morning and I enjoyed it
The PCT climbed yet again on the way to Mulkey Pass, but it was cool that morning and I enjoyed it
Looking down at dawn light striking Mulkey Meadow from the PCT at mile 745
Looking down at dawn light striking Mulkey Meadow from the PCT at mile 745
I arrived at Mulkey Pass, PCT mile 746, but I wanted to hike a bit further, to Trail Pass
I arrived at Mulkey Pass, PCT mile 746, but I wanted to hike a bit further, to Trail Pass

Mostly I hiked within the forest, but the trail was often perched on the side of a slope, which afforded occasional views to the south and west.  Olancha Peak, where I was two days ago, was in the south, and Kern Peak was to the west.  Both are major summits in the Southern Sierra Nevada.

Olancha Peak in the distance, left, and Mulkey Meadow down below, from the PCT near Mulkey Pass
Olancha Peak in the distance, left, and Mulkey Meadow down below
Kern Peak and Mulkey Meadow as I made my way toward Trail Pass
Kern Peak was another Southern Sierra Peak I wanted to climb someday

Within an hour, I arrived at Trail Pass.  Vicki and I had been here before, back in 2020, when we did a section hike south to Kennedy Meadows.  Those were good times.  Just thinking about it made me want to get back home to see her.  It gets lonely at times, hiking solo, even though I met a lot of other backpackers along the way.  Too bad she isn’t up to hiking fifteen miles per day, or she would have been here with me.  It’s hard to hike through the Sierra unless you do more miles-per-day, because the resupply points are far apart and you can only carry so much food.  Sad but true.

Signs at Trail Pass, PCT mile 747, where I turned east to head for my car down in Horseshoe Meadows
Signs at Trail Pass, PCT mile 747, where I turned east to head for my car down in Horseshoe Meadows
Trail Pass was very broad, with no views, but plenty of spots to camp
Trail Pass was very broad, with no views, but plenty of spots to camp

Anyway, I was happy to be leaving the Pacific Crest Trail.  At least for now.  In a few weeks I planned to restart my hike right there at Trail Pass, to begin Part 2, but for now it was time to head downhill to the car.  At least it was easy to dodge a majority of the melting snow drifts on the way.  Most of them had refrozen in the night, and were slick like ice.  I didn’t have any microspikes with me, and I wasn’t waiting until they got soft and slushy later on in the afternoon.

The melting snowbanks had refrozen overnight, but I was able to walk around them easily
The melting snowbanks had refrozen overnight, but I was able to walk around them easily
Melting snowbanks on the Trail Pass Trail - I promised three hikers a ride to Lone Pine that morning
Melting snow on the Trail Pass Trail, with Horseshoe Meadows visible in the distance
Wide angle view of a very wet Trail Pass Trail as I hiked down toward Horseshoe Meadows
Wide angle view of a very wet trail as I hiked down toward the meadow

All told, the trail descended about 600 feet to the wide expanse that was Horseshoe Meadows.  The upper meadow was mostly deep soft sand rather than grasses, so hiking was a bit of a slog.  I also finally began to get warm in the sun, and removed my jacket.  Along the way, there was still a wide flat drift of melting snow, which surprised me.  It must have been very deep in that spot to withstand all that Spring sunshine.  The other good thing about hiking in the meadow was the views.  Mount Langley, which my son and I climbed back in 2015, was in the distance to the north.  It was the southernmost fourteener in California, and a fairly easy peak to summit.  It should be mentioned that, easy climb or not, once you summit a Fourteener, you ARE a Fourteener.  Forever.  That’s the rule.

I arrived in Horseshoe Meadows with Cirque Peak (left) and Mount Langley (distant right)
I arrived in Horseshoe Meadows with Cirque Peak (left) and Mount Langley (distant right)
Zoomed-in view of Mount Langley above Horseshoe Meadows on the Trail Pass Trail
Zoomed-in view of Mount Langley – it looked cold up there at 14,025 feet elevation!
The sun was bright as I crossed Horseshoe Meadows on the Trail Pass Trail
The sun was bright as I crossed sandy Horseshoe Meadows
Up at 10,000 feet elevation, there was still residual snow out in the middle of Horseshoe Meadows
At 10,000 feet elevation, there was still residual snow out in the middle of the meadow in the sun!
It was time to cross the swollen creek in Horseshoe Meadows on the Trail Pass Trail
It was time to cross the swollen creek – I found a narrow spot to leap across

After the mile-long meadow crossing, the Trail Pass Trail joined up with the Cottonwood Pass Trail, and headed due east to the trailhead parking lot.  It was a flat and easy hike, and I was glad to arrive.

The Trail Pass Trail joined with Cottonwood Pass Trail and the signs pointed me to my car
The Trail Pass Trail joined with the Cottonwood Pass Trail and the sign pointed to my car
Selfie with the Golden Trout Wilderness sign as I neared the Horseshoe Meadows trailhead parking
Selfie with the Golden Trout Wilderness sign as I neared the backpacker parking lot
There were very few cars parked at the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead parking lot in Horseshoe Meadows
There were very few cars parked at the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead – still too much snow out there!

I got there about 7:30am, and proceeded to change into some less stinky clothing that I left in the trunk a week ago.  My body might be stinky and dirty, but at least my clothes would be clean when I shuttled fellow backpackers down to town on the way home.  Then I got out my book and hung out in the car, waiting for the three hikers I promised a ride to yesterday to show up.

My pack by Vicki's car - I had to wait to give hikers rides to and from Lone Pine - Trail Angel Time!
My pack by Vicki’s car – I had to wait to give hikers rides to and from Lone Pine – Trail Angel Time!
View of my filthy leg and tape-covered foot after 100 miles of hiking the PCT - pretty typical, really
View of my filthy leg and tape-covered foot after 100 miles of hiking – pretty typical, really

They got there a short time later.  We piled all their gear into the car and started heading down the long grade to the town of Lone Pine.  Two of the hikers were busy making YouTube Documentaries (vlogs?) about their PCT Thru-Hikes.  Lil’Chap Hikes and HammerHikes both made mention of me in their videos that day.  Fireball, the fun one of the trio, also came along for the ride.  We blasted down Horseshoe Meadows Road to Lone Pine, where I dropped them off in the center of town.  As soon as I arrived, three more hikers were standing there hitchhiking, hoping to get back up the hill to Horseshoe Meadows!  Sheesh!  So of course I gave them a ride.  It’s 23 miles up to the trailhead, and takes about an hour to drive.  Then when I dropped them off, three more hikers were there, hoping to get a ride into town!  So of course I took them down.  Once I dropped them off, I made my way south before any more showed up!  Ha ha.  But seriously, it’s a good feeling, helping out your fellow backpackers, who, though stinky, always appreciate a good ride.  In fact, they forced enough cash on me to pay my gas to San Diego.  Thanks!

View north from Horseshoe Meadows Road as I neared Lone Pine - time to head home!
View north from Horseshoe Meadows Road as I neared Lone Pine again – time to head home!

After that, it was time to leave the Sierra, on the five hour drive to San Diego across the lonely Mojave Desert and the overcrowded LA freeways.  All in all, I thought, the first 100 miles of my 2024 PCT Sierra Section trek was a total success.  My gear worked well, except maybe for my old backpack which had seen quite a bit of wear last year.  It was getting tears in the stretchy mesh pockets, and might be due for replacement.  But I had a few weeks to get ready for the next 200 mile portion.  Watching snow melt wasn’t much more exciting than watching paint dry, but it was better than hiking through it.  I’d be back on the trail soon enough.

 

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

 

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