From PCT mile 729.3 to 744.2 Total: 14.9 miles 5/31
On my seventh day in the Sierra, I hiked north out of Gomez Meadow and climbed high into the melting snow of the crest before descending gradually through the Golden Trout Wilderness, hiking around Ash Meadow to the Spring at Dutch Meadow.
As always, I woke up too early and ate my hot oatmeal in the pre-dawn light. I was camped at about 9000 feet elevation, but even so, it wasn’t all that cold. After packing up and hiking a mile or so north, I discovered that I made the right decision last night not to camp in the low spot at Gomez Meadow. When I arrived, the air was frosty and there was ice in the waters near the meadow’s trail crossing. I really dodged an icy bullet! I saw a few tents out in the flatlands and waved at a hiker inside one of them, but kept my gloved hands in my jacket pockets and hustled on out of there. The only way to stay warm was to keep on hiking, so that’s what I did.
The sun finally arrived as I began the day’s big climb. It was an ascent of 1700 feet in about four miles, which is what I would call a fine bit of hiking. Naturally, the vistas grew more expansive as I increased my elevation. The views looking back at the meadow and Olancha Peak were superb, and the air was much warmer. Soon, I took off my jacket and gloves, and hiked along like normal, resting briefly in patches of shade when the occasion offered.
The other side effect of climbing above 10,000 feet was the presence of residual drifts of snow. Most of these were avoidable by finding a path around them. Meanwhile, there were great views out to the east, looking down to Owens Lake, a mile below me. The lake had partially refilled last year, in 2023, thanks to the 300% of normal snowfall in the Sierra. There was so much meltwater that even the ever-thirsty LADWP was unable to suck it all dry.
Not all of the snow was avoidable; there were plenty of drifts to hike on. Most of it was already dirty from hiker bootprints, with deep trenches and suncups to step in. By the time I got up there the snow was beginning yet another day of its Springtime melt cycle, with slush on top and a wet trickle of water draining out beneath each drift. All in all, I was glad to be heading home tomorrow, as the trail got even higher after Trail Pass. It seemed like I was making a good decision to wait a few extra weeks for most of it to melt. I would run into more mosquitoes by then, but at least my feet would stay dry while I ran away from them.
After the crest, the trail descended gradually over the next five miles or more. It traversed around Ash Meadow clockwise, staying along the crest, then curved back again in an S-shape, to go counter-clockwise around Mulkey Meadow. This was fine by me, as it avoided needlessly dropping down low and then climbing back up again. But it wasn’t great for views. Mostly the trail just made its way through a typical Southern Sierra forest, with plenty of sand and a few granite boulders for variety. I liked it, but it wasn’t great for taking photos.
As I hiked, I met three hikers taking a break. We spoke for a while. They were planning to get a resupply in Lone Pine tomorrow. Since I was driving down there in my car, I offered them a ride. They planned to hike a few more miles than me and come down via Cottonwood Pass, whereas I would be taking the Trail Pass trail. I told them that I was an early riser, but that I would wait for them in the parking lot at Horseshoe Meadows until 9am. That should give them plenty of time to get there. And if they did it right, they could resupply in town and hitch a ride back up in a single day. They wanted to maintain their body’s acclimation to high elevation, as Mount Whitney was only two day’s hike further north.
I hiked on. Soon I arrived above Dutch Meadow, where the trail looked down upon a very wet zone. Good, I thought. I was intending to spend the night at Dutch Meadow Spring, which was up at the head of the meadow.
When I arrived at the meadow, a couple was lying in the sun on their foam pads, holding hands. I immediately cried out “Give me your phone! I have to take a picture! This is the most romantic thing I’ve ever seen on the PCT!” They both laughed. It truly was an idyllic moment. I took a few shots with their phone and we spoke for a while. Then it was time for me to get my water. It wasn’t until afterward that I realized that I never took a picture of them with my own camera! Arghhh! But what’s done is done.
I set down my backpack in the campsite next to the meadow, and got out my gallon jug of water. I headed up to the spring intending to filter it right there, but was assaulted by hordes of hungry mosquitoes! This was not OK, as I hadn’t put on any DEET to repel them. Instead, I scooped up a gallon, then retreated to the campsite. I looked around. It was a gorgeous spot, but I already knew what would happen as evening arrived. The bugs by the stream would join with their fellows in the swampy meadow and descend upon my helpless carcass as I ate my dinner. No thanks! So I packed up my gear and carried the gallon of water back up the hill to the main trail.
I found a good sandy spot a short ways from the trail junction. I set up my tent and enjoyed a bug-free evening. I was camping up at 10,000 feet elevation for the first time, and I expected it to be a bit colder than previous nights. But I had a warm sleeping bag, so I wasn’t worried. I cooked my simple supper of noodles and ate my salty chips, then followed it with some Reese’s Pieces candy for dessert. Dinner of Champions.
I sent Vicki a text via my InReach satellite communicator and let her know that I would be home tomorrow. Then I got dressed in warmer layers to prepare for a cold night in the High Sierra.
For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page
For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page
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