Day 03: Domeland Wilderness

From PCT mile 682.1 to 698.1 Total: 16.0 miles 5/27

On my third day of my trek, I hiked uphill through the Chimney Peak Wilderness, saw some old gold mines, and then descended into the Domeland Wilderness, where I found a campsite near the South Fork Kern River.

After spending yesterday pigging out on Trail Magic at the Chimney Creek Campground, I was ready to get back on the PCT. I woke up early and ate a hot bowl of oatmeal, then visited our hosts to thank them. They were already up by then, and the smell of coffee was tempting, but I couldn’t stay, as much as I wanted to. I had a longer than usual hiking day ahead of me, thanks to slacking off by two miles yesterday. I bid my hosts goodbye and hiked onward.

I woke up early and there was already coffee boiling in great-grandma's coffeepot - but I had to hike on — I woke up early and there was already coffee perking in great-grandma’s coffeepot – but I had to hike on

So away I went, back down the road to the PCT crossing, then uphill through the canyon. Soon, I was able to see the campground down below me, with the hikers eating breakfast pancakes. I sighed and hiked on. This was the two miles I didn’t bother with yesterday, and it needed to get done. Luckily, it was shady and wooded, and the miles went by pleasantly.

The PCT makes its way up the canyon, high above the Chimney Creek Campground

Morning light in the forest as I headed north out of Chimney Creek

Heading northwest up the canyon above the Chimney Creek Campground on the PCT — The PCT was really chopped out of the canyonside in this steeper section

I stopped off at Fox Mill Spring to top up my water, even though I didn’t really need to. I met several hikers that were present for Trail Magic yesterday, who camped up here last night, and were barely finished packing. This made me glad that I stayed where I did. As an early riser who doesn’t need more than six hours of sleep, folks who waste the beautiful dawn are a mystery to me. But to each his own, and the saying “Hike Your Own Hike” comes into play.

This is what's left of Fox Mill, a gold stamping mill from the old mining days, at PCT mile 684 — This is what’s left of Fox Mill, a gold stamping mill from the old mining days, at PCT mile 684

I decided to get my day's water supply at Fox Mill Spring, which comes directly out of the ground — I decided to get my day’s water supply at Fox Mill Spring, which comes directly out of the ground

The old Fox Mill mining camp had the remains of a truck from the early 1900's — The old Fox Mill mining camp had the remains of a truck from the early 1900’s

All told, I had about 2500 feet to climb that morning. It would have been a thousand feet less if I hadn’t been so lazy yesterday. Oh well. I don’t regret it at all. It was a fine morning to be in the mountains, and the breeze picked up as I climbed into a less forested zone, which offset the sun’s heat. And the views were fine.

As the PCT climbed higher, I got good views south toward Chimney Creek

View east from PCT mile 686 showing both forest and a burned region

I took a boot-off break in the shade of a pine near mile 686 - it felt good to dry my sweaty feet — I took a boot-off break in the shade of a pine near mile 686 – it felt good to dry my sweaty feet

A number of hikers passed me that morning. I was an old dude who hiked slow, it seemed. The last time I was here, back in April 2022, I was heading the other way, meeting up with the fastest of the thru hikers blasting north from the Mexican border. That was a very dry year, and it was nice to see more wildflowers blooming this time. This part of the Southern Sierra didn’t get much rain even in a wet year, as evidenced by the chaparral and lack of tree cover.

Only a few pines survived the fire, which obviously happened long ago, as I continued climbing — Only a few pines survived the fire, which obviously happened long ago

As I reached the top of the day's climb at 8000 feet elevation, I got a distant glimpse of Olancha Peak — As I reached the top of the day’s climb at 8000 feet elevation, I got a distant glimpse of Olancha Peak

I took a long break in the shade of a big boulder up at the top of the climb. I could see everywhere from there. Olancha Peak was in the north, and I knew that I’d be hiking on the western side of it in a few more days, because Vicki and I had section-hiked it SOBO (SOuthBOund) back in 2020, during the pandemic when there were very few Thru-Hikers on the PCT. I ate my trusty Pop-Tart for lunch and continued on. It was going to be downhill all the way from here. The Domeland Wilderness and Rockbound Basin were down below, in the South Fork Kern River valley. I started striding along, with a smooth trail and fine weather. Oh yeah!

There were a couple of open pit Gold Mines just off the trail as I headed downhill along Manter Creek

Zoomed-in view of distant granite domes in the Domeland Wilderness, north of the SF Kern River

There wasn't much shade and the air was hot as I headed downhill along Manter Creek — There wasn’t much shade and the air was hot as I headed downhill along Manter Creek

Yellow wildflowers and purple lupines along the PCT near mile 692

It was only noon but it seemed like I'd never get down to the valley floor along Manter Creek — It was only early afternoon but it seemed like I’d never get down to the valley floor

With perseverance (and a lack of choice) I made it down to the bottom of the canyon. It was time to cross Manter Creek. But first I stopped for a short break and took a look around. I had already hiked fourteen miles and this was where I planned to stop for the night.

I arrived at PCT mile 695 where the trail crosses Manter Creek - I camped there back in April 2022 — I arrived at PCT mile 695 where the trail crossed Manter Creek – I camped there back in April 2022

There was plenty of water in Manter Creek but I still had some left - I took a break but hiked on afterward — There was plenty of water in Manter Creek but I still had some left – I took a break but hiked on

But I remembered being here last time. It wasn’t all that pretty camping tucked away between clumps of willows. They blocked the wind (and views) but not the blasting sun. At least not right now, in mid-afternoon. I checked the Far Out app, and there was supposed to be a trickle of water two miles ahead, just before another campsite. This would get me closer to Kennedy Meadows tomorrow, where I planned to buy a burger. Burgers always win out when it comes to motivating PCT hikers, so off I went. “Onward through Rockhouse Basin!” I cried.

I decided that Manter Creek was too ugly, so I hiked onward up the valley to a better spot — I decided that Manter Creek was too ugly, so I hiked further up the valley to a better spot

Granite boulders in the wide valley of the South Fork Kern River that look like dinosaur vertebrae

Looking across the valley toward the glaciated granite of Rockhouse Basin in the Domeland Wilderness — Looking toward the glaciated granite of Rockhouse Basin in the Domeland Wilderness

I am happy to say that the hikers on the app didn’t lie. There was a lovely streamlet of water pouring through a small trough in a granite boulder. It was perfect for collecting in my gallon jug. I decided to purify it with my chlorine drops later on, in camp. Then I carried the jug by the handle the final quarter mile to the campsite. Easy. And the location was quite nice, with flat sandy spots tucked between a few small pines. They were perfect for afternoon shade and blocked a bit of the breeze. I decided that I liked it here.

There was a welcome trickle of fresh water just south of my campsite at PCT mile 698 so I tanked up — There was a welcome trickle of fresh water just south of my campsite, so I tanked up

My comfy campsite in the shade at Pacific Crest Trail mile 698

View northwest toward Rockhouse Basin in the Domeland Wilderness from my campsite on the PCT — View northwest toward Rockhouse Basin and Bald Mountain (9382 feet elevation)

I set up camp, purified the water, and cooked my ramen noodle dinner. Then I came out and enjoyed the expansive view over Rockhouse Basin while eating some salty chips. Tonight I was all alone, but after the last two crowded nights it was a bit of a relief. There’s something to be said about the Solitude of the Wilderness. But no one ever says it: They just listen to it instead.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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