From PCT mile 669.9 to 682.1 Total: 12.1 miles 5/26
On the 2nd day of my PCT Sierra Section trek, I hiked from my camp down near Spanish Needle Creek, up and over the ridge near Lamont Peak, then continued down into the Chimney Creek valley, where I saw a sign for Trail Magic just up the road at the Chimney Creek Campground, and the magic trapped me there for the night.
I didn’t set an alarm that morning, but I typically wake up early anyway. I really only need about six hours of sleep, even after yesterday’s long hike. It was dark when I woke up, and when I turned on my headlamp, I glanced down at my watch and misread it. The watch has hands, and I must’ve got the angle wrong. But, by the time I discovered the error, I decided that it was too late to change anything. Breakfast was already cooking. I was also happy that I felt better today and that my appetite was back. Life was looking good!
There were PCT thru-hikers sleeping all around me in that crowded campsite. Many of them were “Cowboy Camping” which meant that they were sleeping under the stars without a tent. Very romantic, and it made setting up and breaking camp much faster for them. I liked my tent, so I took my time packing everything. The most important part was doing it quietly. I tried not to let my aluminum tent poles and stakes clink together.
It was 5am when I started hiking. There was a tiny bit of light in the sky, but I still needed my headlamp. Especially under the trees along the creek bottom.
In a way, it was better that I did this climb in the cool of the morning, after experiencing yesterday’s afternoon heat. I was wary of a relapse, but soon I forgot all about wariness. I was climbing uphill under bright moonlight, and the world was a magical place. Soon, alpenglow appeared on the peaks to the west, and the air was calm and still. It was a beautiful morning.
I toiled on, but was a pleasant toil. Soon, I put my headlamp away as the nearby peaks were lit by direct sun. But it was shady down here on the west side of the valley. I crossed Spanish Needle Creek more than once, and it still had flowing water. My pack had enough to last me all day, so I didn’t stop. There were pretty flowers along the trail, lupines and desert dandelions. As I got higher, there were even some oak trees with fresh purple baby leaves. Spring was in full swing in the Southern Sierra.
It was 8am when I topped the ridge and left the valley behind. I looked back and waved goodbye. After last night’s exhaustion, I admit that I was happy to see it disappear behind me. New vistas were in front of me, and that’s what mattered now. I could see Lamont Peak standing in the sunlight. When I came through here the first time, back in 2022, heading southbound, there were blustery clouds with madly blowing mist all along the ridgetop up here. What a contrast it was to today’s perfect weather! I strode on with happy feet, taking photos with abandon, as always.
After trying, and failing, to get cell signal at the overlook to the east, I resigned myself to a long downhill hike. Chimney Creek was down at the bottom of this valley. If I needed water, I would filter some there. But my planned campsite was two miles further on, up the next canyon, at Fox Mill Spring, which had excellent water. So I wasn’t worried, and simply enjoyed the downhill cruising, which was almost as far down as the spot where I started! That’s the PCT for you. Up and down, forever.
There was a ranch house down near the road by Lamont Meadow. I guess they probably ran cows, as it didn’t look like a great spot for farming. The official wilderness ended as I neared the road. But first, I crossed Chimney Creek, which was flowing just fine. It was an easy jump across. Leaving early was turning out to be a good plan, as it was only 1pm when I got there, and I didn’t have much further to hike. I promised myself that I wouldn’t overdo it today, no matter how tempted I was to keep hiking, up and over the next big hill, rather than spending all afternoon resting in camp.
As I approached the road I saw a laminated sign stapled to a wooden post. It proudly announced the 9th annual Strider Memorial Trail Magic, just up the road at the Chimney Creek Campground. I thought about this. I didn’t really need any food, but it also said that there would be burritos! With both lunch and dinner menus! I was also rather early. Surely I had time to check out this wonderful opportunity. So up the road I hiked.
I received a hearty greeting when I arrived at their campsite. They had a shade awning and folding chairs for hikers. There was a table with hot dogs cooking, and a cooler full of icy sodas and beer. This was living! I plopped down my backpack next to my friend Turtle’s pack (she managed to pass me on the way, slowpoke that she claims to be) and pulled up a chair. Introductions were given and received. Hands were shaken. Offers of food and drink were made. Everyone was smiling and happy, as hikers almost always are.
It turned out that this was actually the tenth annual Strider Memorial. Greg “Strider” Hummel and two of our hosts had hiked the Sierra section of the PCT back in 1974! There was a photo of them on the sign, and the hosts shared a photo album with more. Strider has since passed on, ten years or so ago, and this was their way of keeping his spirit alive. Passing the torch to the next backpackers, who would pass it on again at the proper time. After the Memorial Day Weekend was over, they planned to head up north, trout fishing in the Owens River, and anywhere else that took their fancy.
The weather was hot, and I enjoyed being in the shade. I ate hotdogs but stayed away from the beer, because I had to keep hiking later on. More thru-hikers arrived, while others left. Turtle wanted to reach Kennedy Meadows tomorrow, and it was eighteen miles away, so she left early. Whenever I spoke about leaving, the hosts would distract me with more food. Their strategy was effective. Burritos were produced around dinnertime. More sodas were handed out. More hikers arrived at the party. By this time, there were about twenty of us there!
Pretty soon, I realized that I didn’t really have to hike anywhere today. With this food, and the promise of more food at the Kennedy Meadows grill two days from now, I realized that I could easily hike fewer miles per day, if I wanted to, and maybe even extend my hike to eight days rather than seven. I liked this idea. An extra day in the Sierra! Plus, it gave the snow up at 11,000 feet, near the car at Horseshoe Meadows, another day to melt.
I gave in and walked over to a nearby campsite with my backpack. I found a spot with a convenient picnic table and set up the tent. This was Glamping compared to the usual PCT fare. Then I went back down to the party for a while. There was no way to sleep with all that action going on! While there, when not yakking with the hosts, I re-planned my hike using the Far Out app on my phone, and changed the camping locations on my CalTopo Map. Later on, as it got dark, I returned to my tent and got ready for the night. I texted Vicki about the change in plans, and that I might be home a day later, depending on circumstances totally within my control. Like how far I felt like hiking each day. It was nice to have new choices. The Trail Magic worked its magic, as it always does.
For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page
For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page
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