On our second day exploring the Oregon Coast, we learned about the Lewis and Clark Expedition by visiting Cape Disappointment State Park, Fort Clatsop (at Lewis and Clark National Historical Park), and Fort Stevens State Park, all at the mouth of the Columbia River.
We woke up that morning eager to get on the road. We ate breakfast and headed south on Route 101, driving past the oyster beds of Willapa Bay, which were on full display during an ultra-low tide.
Although we wanted to get to Oregon right away, the Lewis and Clark story ended up capturing us for a full day, partly within Washington and partly in Oregon. Our first stop was to check out McKenzie Head, in Cape Disappointment State Park on the Washington side of the Columbia River. This was where Lewis and Clark arrived at the end of their westward journey of exploration. Being strangers in Indian Territory, they acted in a defensive manner, claiming the high ground by setting up camp on top of the low hill called McKenzie Head. They didn’t stay there long, eventually making a Winter home on the Oregon side of the river at Fort Clatsop, but the obvious military importance of this hill couldn’t be denied. When Vicki and I arrived, we discovered the remains of a World Way II gun battery on top! There were only a few monuments left to show that Lewis and Clark had ever been there.
Nonetheless, there was a great view from up on the hill, so it was hardly surprising that they wanted to camp there. We hiked around and took plenty of photos and videos. The mighty Columbia River flowed past us toward the Pacific Ocean, and we could see Oregon across the way. It was a lovely spot.
After that, it was time to head into Oregon. Finally! We drove south on 101 and crossed the Columbia on a huge bridge, large enough for commercial oceangoing ships to pass underneath. Impressive.
Our next stop was to visit Fort Clatsop, at the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. This was the spot where Lewis and Clark spent the Winter, after abandoning their temporary camp on McKenzie Head. They built an actual log cabin style fort as protection from potential raids by the local Indians. They also spent a lot of time making salt from sea water, which was used to preserve enough fish and meat to enable them to head back east the following Spring, but upstream on the Columbia River this time. It was quite an expedition, in other words.
Earlier, on our drive to the bridge, Vicki had picked up some fresh crab meat from a roadside vendor, so we stopped at a picnic table near the fort to cook it into lunch. She didn’t share it with me, but that was OK as I didn’t really like crab all that much. I stuck with a trusty Pop-Tart. Much more satisfying.
Not too far away was Fort Stevens State Park, located at the end of the Columbia River (on the Oregon side) so we headed over there. Large jetties had been constructed to keep the river mouth clear of sand bars, and there were several nice beaches along both the river and the ocean. Of course we had to check them out. We saw a Bald Eagle and an old shipwreck on the beach.
Back at the car, we checked Google Maps in vain, trying to find a campsite. Any campsite. Everything was full. We eventually got discouraged. At least we knew of one campground that wasn’t full. It was the one we stayed at last night! Sadly, it was back in Washington, not Oregon, but it really wasn’t all that far away. Maybe a half hour drive. We bit the bullet and headed north, leaving Oregon entirely. Yet another trip over the big bridge. Oh well. At least we’d have a place to stay.
Luckily, we found an even better campsite than last time, and ate our dinner with a (partial) view over Willapa Bay. We spent some extra time figuring out our plan for tomorrow. There would be no repeats at this campsite. We were committed to staying in Oregon this time! There were several campgrounds to choose from, so we felt confident in finding a proper spot. We had no reservations, sadly, but maybe we could get a place earlier in the afternoon, before they all filled up. This wasn’t the best strategy we’ve ever had, but it would have to do. We could always stay at a motel if nothing else. And that was that. Oregon or Bust!
Just the same, our first day on the coast had been a success, as far as fun and learning were concerned, and that was the important thing. And I predicted that tomorrow would be even better.
For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page
For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page
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