On the third day of our Ultimate Alaska Cruise we arrived in Alaska itself, at the port of Ketchikan. This town proudly states that it’s the first city in the state, as well as being the Salmon Capital of the World. Pretty bold claims! But then again, you have to be bold just to live up there in the icy north. Luckily, we arrived in May, in early Spring, and only the mountains had a trace of residual snow. This town was within the “Inside Passage” so that its weather was strongly influenced by the nearby Pacific Ocean and the Japanese Warm Current. This produced plenty of drizzly rain, which happened most days, according to the locals.
The ship was already tied up at the terminal when we woke up. After breakfast, we put on some warm clothes and our rain gear, then headed down the gangway into town.
When we booked the cruise, a few months ago, we were offered many choices as to Shore Excursions. Every port had a unique list of things to do and see and experience. Naturally, each one had its own price. Whale watching or whitewater rafting might cost some serious bucks, while walking around town was free. We discovered later on that we could have booked our own excursions at a discount. Live and learn.
Vicki, however, was most interested in Native Culture (i.e. First Nations, or Tlingit people). Therefore we were scheduled to visit the Saxman Native Village and Dance Performance. We found our bus and got on board. Soon enough, our group was dropped off at the village, and we were welcomed into the lodge.
We listened as the village elder told us about the dance, and what it represented. Then several of the younger tribal members came out and performed for us, clad in authentic native clothing. Another elder woman kept the beat on a handcrafted drum.
For the final dance, they invited the audience to join them. Most of us were reticent, but Vicki jumped right up. This was right up her alley. One other guest joined her. They placed a cape over her shoulders and she followed the dancers in their motions around the central fireplace. She did her best to replicate the dance, and enjoyed herself immensely.
Afterward, we all left the lodge and walked outside, where our native guide explained about several of the nearby Totem Poles. These poles all tell a story, engraved in symbols for those who know to read them. One pole had a man on top wearing a funnel hat, and his face was painted in gaudy colors. This represented William Seward, the man who helped the United States purchase the Alaska Territory from Russia. The garish colors meant that this was a Shame Pole, showing him in a negative light. Apparently, he visited Ketchikan, and promised to come back. But he never did. Words of wisdom: Don’t lie to the natives!
We walked through the village to the wood shop. Here, various items, including Totem Poles, oars, masks, and canoes were being created by native Formline artists. We learned about them from our guide. One of the artists, Michael Jasson Milne, was currently in residence. Various items created by him (and others) were on sale in a nearby gift shop, which we visited after the tour.
On the way back to the cruise ship terminal, the bus driver took us through town. He showed us several places where we might get some food, and other sights of interest. We decided to take his advice, and headed back into town after he dropped us off. By this time, the rain was ending, and it was a pleasant day for a walk. As well as a Salmon Crepe for lunch! We ate it while looking at Ketchikan Creek flowing by. Sadly, it wasn’t salmon season at the moment.
On the way back to the ship, we stopped to check out the Tongass Historical Museum. Inside, there were both native and non-native exhibits. Vicki spent most of her time in the native section, but I also checked out the Lumberjack and Fisherman exhibits. All of these are part of the history of Ketchikan.
When we arrived back at the dock, Vicki realized that she hadn’t packed sufficiently warm gloves. Not surprisingly, there was a store right next door. We went inside and she got the warm knit gloves she needed. Alaska is still cold in early Spring!
We made it back aboard the ship in plenty of time. Just the same, we were leaving the port relatively early, well before dinner. I was guessing that getting to Juneau was going to take all night, cruising through Alaska’s calm and peaceful Inland Passage region. We stayed up on deck to watch as the dock lines were cast off and we eased back from the pier. We noticed that two other cruise ships, from competing companies, were currently docked in port. I had a strong feeling that tourist dollars were a mainstay of the local economy.
We took a walk around the Promenade Deck as the ship cruised north through the Tongass Narrows. There was an airport along the route, capable of landing commercial jets, and we even saw a Bald Eagle perched on a pylon along the shore. Excellent! That’s the sort of thing we wanted to see in Alaska.
After that, it was off to dinner. Then I did a quick session on the treadmill, just to keep my hiking legs strong, followed by a shower. We were looking forward to our excursion to a gold mine in Juneau, tomorrow.
For a topographic map of the cruise see my CalTopo Page
For LOTS more photos of the voyage see my Flickr Page
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