Day 5: Marie Lake

We backpacked south on the John Muir Trail from Bear Creek to Marie Lake, and camped high above the lake, just below Selden Pass. All told, we climbed about 1600 feet over seven miles, making it a mellow, enjoyable hike through some beautiful High Sierra scenery.

We woke up relatively early, as always, but cooked up a good breakfast before our hike, on the JMT near Bear Creek — We woke up relatively early, as always, but cooked up a good breakfast before our hike

I didn’t bother setting an alarm that morning, as we knew the trail would climb steadily all day. There was no need to wake up and hike in the dark to overcome a huge climb, like yesterday. We’d simply be following along the valley floor next to Bear Creek. So we cooked a hearty meal like civilized campers, and enjoyed it thoroughly. Then we finished packing up our gear. After that, we continued hiking south, following the creek.

Vicki checking out the pools and rapids along Bear Creek, just off the John Muir Trail — Vicki checking out the pools and rapids along Bear Creek

Me checking out a deep pool full of trout on Bear Creek as we hiked south on the John Muir Trail — Me checking out a deep pool full of trout – maybe I’d get to do some fishing later on

Following Bear Creek was a fun experience. The water wasn’t roaring like it would be during Spring snowmelt, but it was doing pretty well for a dry year in late July. The streambed was also composed of glaciated granite, making it smooth and polished. This entire valley had been under hundreds of feet of ice not that long ago, geologically-speaking. There were plenty of glacial erratics littering the ground all around us. Personally, I liked it better without the ice.

It was still cool in the early morning as we headed upstream along Bear Creek on the John Muir Trail — It was still cool in the early morning as we continued upstream on a very mellow grade

We had to rock-hop across the Hilgard Branch of Bear Creek, on the John Muir Trail — We had to rock-hop across the Hilgard Branch of Bear Creek

After three miles or so, the trail headed across the main creek. Luckily, it was much smaller by then, but there wasn’t a convenient bridge over it, either. Earlier in the season, during the Spring snowmelt, hikers either headed up or down the creek, looking for a big fallen log, or else they braved the icy water and waded across. Luckily for us, the water level was low enough that it was just about possible to rock-hop across the creek. One rock was a half-inch or so below the water’s surface, so foot positioning was crucial. I made it over with dry socks. There was also one boulder that wobbling disconcertingly. Fun!

We were lucky the water level was low enough to rock-hop the ford over upper Bear Creek on the John Muir Trail — We were lucky the water level was low enough to rock-hop across

Looking east across Bear Creek at the ford where we crossed on the JMT - one rock wobbled and one was under water — Looking back across the ford – one rock wobbled and one was just barely under water

After the crossing, the trail continued upstream, then turned aside and followed the West Fork of Bear Creek. The slope remained gentle, and Vicki was hiking along just fine. We were really enjoying the wide open views within this canyon. Soon, we came alongside Seven Gables Peak, and met a young hiker getting ready to climb it. He was carrying an ice axe, but I didn’t think he’d need it. For him, travelling along the PCT was mainly a good excuse to bag plenty of extra peaks along the way. Sounded like fun to me! We passed the Sandpiper Lake Trail, and then the Rose Lake Trail, and the creek kept getting smaller with each crossing.

View of Seven Gables with two spots of melting snow, from the John Muir Trail near the West Fork Bear Creek — View of Seven Gables with two spots of melting snow, as we hiked up the West Fork Bear Creek

The West Fork Bear Creek was very small and mellow in Rosemarie Meadow on the John Muir Trail - and it had trout! — The West Fork was very small and mellow in Rosemarie Meadow – and it had trout!

View west over the West Fork Bear Creek Valley, from the John Muir Trail — View west over the creek toward Crazy Pass – Rose Lake is over there somewhere, nestled in the granite

Eventually, the trail headed left, rising up from the valley floor. We were nearing Marie Lake. This last uphill had no shade, so it was a bit tough, but we made it just fine. We were up near 10,500 feet elevation, and the pine trees were not only sparse, but stunted, so no shadows to hide in. We crested the rise and there was the lake spread out before us. It was huge! It also looked quite shallow to my eye, but that was OK.

We're almost at Marie Lake, and the climbing is over for now, on the John Muir Trail — We were almost at Marie Lake, and the climbing was over for now, which made Vicki very happy

Marie Lake comes into view as we continue south on the John Muir Trail — Marie Lake came into view – Hooray!

The outflow into the West Fork Bear Creek from Marie Lake was low in late July 2022 but we could hear the water — The outflow creek was low in late July 2022 but we could hear the water

We put down our packs and walked out onto the isthmus, looking for a campsite. It was just past noon, and everything we found looked like it would be roasting in the sun all day long. We weren’t impressed. Surely there was a good spot here somewhere? But no. We went back to our packs and hiked a bit further.

Looking out over the northern half of Marie Lake, just off the John Muir Trail, with Seven Gables on the far right — Looking out over the northern half of Marie Lake, with Seven Gables on the far right

Panorama view east over Marie Lake from the John Muir Trail, with Seven Gables Peak on the left — Panorama view east over the lake

View north over Marie Lake with Mount Senger (12286 feet elevation) in the distance, right of center, from the JMT — View east, with Mount Senger (12286 feet elevation) in the distance, right of center

We had spoken with a northbound couple who described some nice spots up on a ridge at the southern end of the lake, closer to Selden Pass, but we didn’t want to hike all that way and then have to retrace our steps if they were wrong. So Vicki sat by the shore and soaked her feet in the water while I combed the flat area where most everyone camps. All the spots were shadeless and exposed. It wasn’t looking good.

I went searching for a decent campsite (there were many hot, exposed spots) while Vicki cooled her feet in Marie Lake — I went searching for a decent campsite (there were many hot, exposed spots) while Vicki cooled her feet

We heard that there were good spots up on a knoll on the southern end of Marie Lake, so that's where we headed next — We heard that there were good spots up on a knoll on the southern end of the lake, so that’s where we headed

Selden Pass was on the right, on the southern end of Marie Lake, and that's where we headed for a campsite — Selden Pass on the far right, where we wanted to camp – I decided to fish on that big boulder later

The John Muir Trail began climbing toward Selden Pass and we began to seriously search for a good campsite — The trail began climbing toward the pass, and we began to seriously search for a good campsite

We could see Selden Pass in the distance, and Vicki was not happy about hiking any further, let alone climbing higher, but I convinced her to give it a try. So off we hiked. We ascended less than a hundred feet and discovered one spot not far from the trail. Everyone who hiked by would see us there. So, once again, we took off our packs and had a look. We ended up finding at least two other spots up there, hidden from the trail by some trees and boulders. One of them was still in the sun, but promised to get shady later on that afternoon. And it had an amazing view of the lake! We decided that we’d hiked far enough, and I went back for the packs. We set up the tent for shadiness, using a mylar space blanket under the top tarp to block the sun, and opened the doors for air. Vicki decided to take a well-deserved nap immediately.

Vicki posing high above Marie Lake from the southern end, just off the John Muir Trail where we found a campsite — Vicki posing high above Marie Lake from the southern end, where we found a campsite

We were happy to get a campsite with such a great view on the southern end of Marie Lake — We were happy to get a campsite with such a great view

View over Marie Lake looking north from our campsite — View looking north from our campsite

I admit that I took a nap, as well. It was a very mellow afternoon, and the air was a perfect temperature when lying in the shade. But eventually we got up. I went to get some drinking water from the inlet creek which flowed down from the pass. I liked this source of water much better than the lake itself.

Then it was time to go fishing. It was quite breezy that day, and I knew it might be a waste of time, but I tried it anyway. They call it “Fishing” and not “Catching” for a reason. We hiked back down to the big boulder on the western shore and I tried my darnedest. I walked here and there along the shore, all to no avail. And I never saw a single fish the entire time. Usually the fish are very visible, and that helps to catch them. But not that day. All the reports said that there were Golden Trout in that lake, but I can’t corroborate them. Eventually, we gave up and headed back to camp. Oh well. It had been a good excuse to take a walk.

That afternoon I tried to do some Tenkara fly fishing in Marie Lake - the breeze was strong and the fish weren't biting — That afternoon I tried to do some Tenkara fly fishing – the breeze was strong and the fish weren’t biting

I did a lot of fishing but no catching on Marie Lake that afternoon, but it was still fun — I did a lot of fishing but no catching that afternoon, and it was still fun

Panorama view over Marie Lake from the John Muir Trail — Yet another panorama view over Marie Lake – it was hard not to take too many photos

As the shadows grew longer the air got colder, and we put away the mylar sheet we’d used for shade. We closed the doors of the tent and sat inside, glad for the sun’s warmth as it heated up the interior. We used this final burst of solar power by getting dressed in our warmer night clothing. Then it was time to have dinner. Afterward, we decided that this was one of the prettiest dining rooms we’d ever eaten in.

Vicki cooking dinner in camp with a fantastic view over Marie Lake, as the shadows grew and the air began to cool — Vicki cooking dinner in camp with a fantastic view, as the shadows grew and the air began to cool

Panorama view of Marie Lake from our campsite, with our Big Agnes Copper Spur tent on the far left — View of our tent and campsite

We headed to bed after hanging out for a bit, as the air was getting even colder. I got out the map and showed Vicki what an easy day tomorrow would be. Do to water locations, we were only hiking about five miles, then seven the following day. Both of the days were mostly downhill, but I didn’t think that Vicki wanted to do all twelve miles in one shot. She agreed. Why have one miserable day when you could have two good ones? And this also meant that we could sleep late the next morning! Win win. That’s the way we like it.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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