Day 32: Northern Yosemite Washboard

From PCT mile 967.5 to 983.6 Total: 16.1 miles 8/8

It was the 32nd day of my PCT Sierra Section hike, and I began it on top of Benson Pass, the highest point in the center of the Yosemite Washboard region (where the trail heads west, crossing multiple valleys with creeks that drain south into the Tuolumne River), and on this day I hiked past Smedberg Lake and Benson Lake, up and over Seavey Pass, down through Kerrick Canyon, and finally up and over yet another ridge to camp in Stubblefield Canyon.

The morning was calm on Benson Pass as I got ready to leave at first light, as always. I had a very big day planned for today, a sixteen-miler, and even though it was more down than up, it was still longer than usual. I packed up everything and hiked out just after 5:30am.

Sunrise light on Benson Pass as I prepared to hike north, deeper into Yosemite National Park on the PCT — Sunrise light on Benson Pass as I prepared to hike north, deeper into Yosemite National Park

My humble tent spot on Benson Pass - just enough room for a one-person tent thanks to that boulder — My humble tent spot – just enough room for a one-person tent, thanks to that boulder

It was nice to begin my day hiking downhill. I had about two miles and 900 feet of descent to reach Smedberg Lake. My hiking buddy Metal Tim texted me that the lake was beautiful and that I should camp there, but yesterday’s hike had been long enough already. Oh well. I hiked on, in the cool of the morning, and simply enjoyed the mellow trail. It varied quite a bit in terms of steep runs through granite channels and easy walks through broad meadows. Volunteer Peak was nearby for most of my morning, as it towered over the valleys, both above and below the lake.

Heading north on the Pacific Crest Trail from Benson Pass, with alpenglow on Volunteer Peak, center — Heading north on the PCT from Benson Pass, with alpenglow on Volunteer Peak, center

Heading north on the PCT toward Smedberg Lake from Benson Pass

Sunrise light on Volunteer Peak, from the Pacific Crest Trail north of Benson Pass — Sunrise light on Volunteer Peak, from PCT mile 969

Soggy meadow along the PCT as I near Smedberg Lake — Soggy meadow along the trail

Lined-up boulders on the Pacific Crest Trail as it travels over smooth granite slabs near Smedberg Lake — Lined-up boulders on the trail as it traveled over smooth granite slabs near Smedberg Lake

About an hour after leaving camp, I arrived at Smedberg Lake. Sunrise had occurred by then so there wasn’t any color left in the clouds, but at least the surface of the lake was calm and the clouds were reflecting quite nicely. This is one of those times when clouds make a big difference in a photograph. OK, I admit that clouds almost always make a big difference, but at least I had something good to show in the surface reflections this time.

Calm reflections at Smedberg Lake from the Pacific Crest Trail at mile 970 — Calm morning reflections on Smedberg Lake, at PCT mile 970

Smedberg Lake was as beautiful as everyone told me it would be — The lake was as beautiful as Metal Tim told me it would be

Dawn light and cloud reflections at Smedberg Lake — Yet another example of dawn light and cloud reflections

After taking too many photos and panorama videos of the lovely lake (Metal Tim was right!) I decided to stop and do a bit of fly fishing with my ultralight carbon-fiber Tenkara fishing rod. According to my newly-created PCT Sierra Section Trout Fishing Guide, there were large Rainbows in this lake. I saw a few rings marring the calm surface so I knew that the fish were rising, looking for some tasty bugs for breakfast. Dawn and dusk are the best times to fish for trout. I cast and re-cast my fly. As always, it seemed that all the rings were just out of range of my short Tenkara line. Tenkara has no reel, just a line and fly, so it doesn’t reach very far. It saves weight, yes, but you miss out on the bigger fish that tend to lurk in deeper water. Since I wasn’t eating them, I was more interested in saving weight. Soon enough, I caught a good-sized Rainbow. Some other campers in some trees near shore were just getting up and saw me catch it. I held it up and asked if they wanted it for breakfast, but they declined. So I took a photo and let it go again, relatively unharmed thanks to my barbless hook.

I had to stop and try some fly fishing for trout with my Tenkara Rod at Smedberg Lake — I absolutely had to stop and try some fly fishing with my Tenkara Rod

I caught a fairly large (quite edible) Rainbow Trout at Smedberg Lake and returned it to the water — I caught a fairly large Rainbow Trout and returned it to the water

I put away my gear and hiked on. The trail swung south for no good reason that I could see, but this is the PCT and it often does things like that. I shrugged and continued on. Volunteer Peak was right in front of me, looking awesome with its granite face. Maybe that was why. I passed the side trail to Rodgers Lake, which was also reported to have large Rainbows. Maybe some other time, I thought.

The Pacific Crest Trail climbed steeply out of the Smedberg Lake Basin - it was not a fun trail to hike here — The PCT climbed steeply – it was not a fun trail to hike here

The northbound PCT climbed south toward Volunteer Peak (11499 ft) just to be annoying, it seemed

It was three more downhill miles to the low point near Benson Lake, from the Rodgers Lake Trail junction — It was three more miles to the low point near Benson Lake, from the Rodgers Lake Trail junction

The trail swung back north and headed down into the long valley leading to Benson Lake. I’m not going to lie when I say that this three mile stretch was one of the worst pieces of trail I’d hiked on in Yosemite thus far. It was steep, the footing was lousy, and it managed to make even a downhill hike miserable. I would surely hate to climb it! Sorry, Yosemite NP, but this was a Major Fail on your part. Please try to improve it by the next time I hike here. Interestingly, the results of the 2024 PCT Hiker Survey showed that the least favorite part of the Sierra Section was Yosemite, whereas the John Muir Trail (which enters Yosemite from the south) was the most favorite. This section here, and the nasty stacked rocks made for horse traction, are the main reasons for the hate, not the scenery, which is beautiful.

Looking down the canyon that the PCT would be descending - 2500 feet total from Benson Pass! — Looking down the canyon that the PCT would be descending – 2500 feet total from Benson Pass

Heading downhill on the PCT toward Benson Lake at mile 971 in the morning light — Heading downhill below Smedberg Lake in the morning light, at PCT mile 971

The switchbacks were short, steep, and unpleasant heading downhill from Smedberg Lake on the PCT — The switchbacks were short, steep, and unpleasant

Small pond at the bottom of the worst of the switchbacks below Smedberg Lake on the PCT — Small trailside pond at the bottom of the worst of the switchbacks

On the way down, I paused for a break at a viewpoint. Benson Lake was off in a valley to the left. It had its own side trail, and my fishing guide mentioned giant Rainbows up to twenty inches long! Sadly, they were to be found at the far western end of the very large lake. I really wanted to try my luck, but that big sixteen mile plan of mine kept getting in the way. Meanwhile, I also saw, up ahead in the distance, the long exposed valley that the PCT would be climbing all too soon. That was the biggest climb of the day, at 1500 feet, and it wasn’t going to climb itself. I decided to give Benson Lake a pass.

I got a glimpse of Benson Lake and Piute Mountain (10541 feet elevation)

The PCT climbed about 1500 feet up that canyon to Seavey Pass - much of it would be in the hot sun — The PCT climbed about 1500 feet up that canyon to Seavey Pass – much of it would be in the hot sun

Piute Creek crossed the trail down at the bottom of the valley. It was wide, and had many branches in this area, as I discovered while heading upstream in an attempt at finding a dry-foot crossing. I wasn’t in the mood to spend a lot of time changing footwear for no reason. Ok, cooling my feet might’ve felt good, but that wasn’t part of my plan at the moment.

Tall pines down in the valley near the Benson Lake Trail at PCT mile 974

Crossing Piute Creek (near Benson Lake) with dry feet was a challenge, but I found some logs upstream

Then it was time to begin the long climb to Seavey Pass. Now that I wasn’t interested, the PCT stubbornly insisted on bearing north, so that the entire canyon was south-facing. As often happens, this region melted out first in the Spring, and now there were fewer trees thanks to less remaining water. That meant more sun. A natural feedback loop. At least it mostly heated my backpack, but it was still hot.

I had about three miles to hike to the pass, but the first part was the hottest and steepest. Along the way I got some views of Benson Lake. I also stopped by the creek and filtered some additional water while taking a breather in the shade. The views looking back were quite fine, and I took photos whenever I stopped in a patch of shade, which was almost every time the trail intersected one. For a spot well below treeline, this valley sure didn’t have a whole lot of trees growing in it!

I didn't bother going on the side trail to Benson Lake - I hoped that I wouldn't regret it later — I didn’t bother going on the side trail to Benson Lake – I hoped that I wouldn’t regret it later

Another view of Benson Lake from the other side, as I climbed toward Seavey Pass on the PCT — Another view of Benson Lake from the other side, as I climbed toward Seavey Pass

I found a shady spot near the creek and took a break while filtering enough water to get me to camp later — I found a shady spot by the creek and took a break, filtering enough water to get me to camp

This canyon leading to Seavey Pass had a southern exposure and there weren't many trees for shade - HOT — This canyon had a southern exposure and there weren’t many trees for shade – HOT!

Volunteer Peak was now on the far left as I climbed north toward Seavey Pass — Volunteer Peak was now on the far left as I climbed toward Seavey Pass

This unnamed peak looked like cat ears to me

Nearing the top of the big hot climb north from Benson Lake to Seavey Pass — I paused in the shade as I neared the top of the big hot climb

The trail flattened out quite a bit during the final mile to the pass. There were lovely ponds and lakes up there. I was really enjoying this part of the day. My trout research on the internet didn’t even mention these lakes, as they had no names. I added them to my list, but also marked them down as probably fishless. I saw no trout rising, and even tried fishing in one of the deeper ponds, but no such luck. Fishless, indeed.

Before I knew it, I began descending, and realized that I never saw a marker for Seavey Pass. The only marker was on my phone’s Far Out app, which said that it was at 9129 feet elevation. But I liked it anyway, wherever it actually was.

Fishless pond on the way to Seavey Pass, at Pacific Crest Trail mile 976, elevation 9008 feet — Fishless pond on the way to Seavey Pass, at PCT mile 976, elevation 9008 feet

I tried to catch a fish in the pond but there was nothing rising, nothing visual, and nothing biting — I tried fishing in another pond but there was nothing rising, nothing visual, and nothing biting

Pretty country with lots of ponds on the plateau leading toward Seavey Pass on the PCT — Pretty country with a high soggy meadow on the plateau

Yet another high fishless pond (yet beautiful!) on the way to Seavey Pass — Yet another high fishless pond (yet beautiful!) on the way to the pass

I didn't realize it until the PCT began descending that I'd passed Seavey Pass (9058 ft) without noticing it — I didn’t realize it until the PCT began descending that I’d passed Seavey Pass (9129 ft) without noticing

I continued downhill to the Buckeye Pass Trail junction, where the PCT made a sharp left and headed down Kerrick Canyon. It was a four mile hike for a thousand feet, which was a mellow slope. Depending upon which map I look at now, here at home, this creek is called either Kerrick Creek or Rancheria Creek. Odd. And the official Yosemite trail signs made of old rusted steel kept calling this other lake Wilmer Lake when all of my maps clearly called it Wilma Lake. Maybe this is one of those mystery areas of the world, places where odd things happen, like Bigfoot sightings, as an example. But I didn’t know this at the time, or I would have kept my eyes open. Instead, I simply enjoyed hiking down an easy trail on a warm Summer afternoon.

Buckeye Pass trail junction at PCT mile 977 - oddly, Wilmer Lake is shown as Wilma Lake on the topo map — Buckeye Pass trail junction at PCT mile 977 – oddly, Wilmer Lake is shown as Wilma Lake on the topo map

The PCT headed down Kerrick Canyon, along Rancheria Creek or Kerrick Creek, map type depending

Rancheria Creek was down below me, and I saw trout swimming, but I was too lazy to climb down

Kerrick Canyon was about four miles of generally downhill PCT hiking until the crossing

The trail stayed pretty far from Kerrick Creek in typical PCT-fashion, but it was easy hiking

It was almost 4pm by the time I made it down the long valley to the crossing. It was definitely time for a break. I filtered a liter or so of water, just in case, then got out my fly rod and walked upstream. I found a slower, deeper pool and cast my fly. Fishing in creeks is always a bit iffy, because of the danger that my fly could easily get snagged under a rock while it drifted downstream. So I was more careful. Eventually, I caught a small Rainbow, and let him go after taking its portrait in the water. At least my list said it should be a rainbow, although the lack of red stripe and the spots were reminiscent of a Brown Trout. Still, I’ll call it a Rainbow for now. I’m not that great a judge of trout species, to be honest.

I arrived at the trail junction at Pacific Crest Trail mile 981, just before crossing Kerrick Creek — I arrived at the trail junction at PCT mile 981, just before crossing Kerrick Creek

The crossing at Kerrick Creek, an easy rock-hop - I decided to take a fly fishing break here — The crossing at Kerrick Creek, an easy rock-hop – I decided to take a fly fishing break here

I'd heard that there were Rainbows in Kerrick Creek, but this one looks more like a Brown Trout to me — I read that there were Rainbows in this creek, but this one looks more like a Brown Trout to me

After that was the final climb and descent of the day. Yet another rib on the Washboard, and I was feeling wrung out by now. I definitely wasn’t looking forward to it. Two and a half miles, with 700 feet up and 1000 feet down. At least there was more downhill. But whatever it was, it was certainly HOT. I sweated up that hill, pausing in whatever shade I could find. For a bonus, the park included some of those nasty stacked rocks. Free of charge! I was not amused.

I had one more climb of about 700 feet to do before getting to camp, and it was HOT

I took breaks when there were patches of deep shade, as I climbed out of Kerrick Canyon

Looking back down into Kerrick Canyon as I climb out of it to the north on the Pacific Crest Trail — Looking back down into Kerrick Canyon as I climbed out of it

There were more of those annoying stacked-rock trailbeds on the way up - Oh how I hate them! — There were more annoying stacked-rock trailbeds – Oh how I hate them!

The big descent went by in a haze of exhaustion. I didn’t take anywhere near as many photos as usual, and that is a sure sign of an overheated hiker. There was more of the same nasty trailbed, and a bunch of short steep switchbacks, but at least it was downhill. It was the final stretch, and I began to perk up as the slope mellowed at the bottom of the canyon. The end was near.

It felt good to reach the top of my late afternoon climb - now to descend a thousand feet or so — It felt good to reach the top of my late afternoon climb – now to descend a thousand feet or so

Looking down into Stubblefield Canyon - I planned to camp down there near the creek — Looking down into Stubblefield Canyon – I planned to camp down there near the creek

The switchbacks leading down into Stubblefield Canyon seemed endless at the close of a 16 mile day — The switchbacks leading down into the canyon seemed endless at the close of a 16 mile day

Stubblefield Canyon was wide and flat, with plenty of tall pine trees. There was just a bit of green grass growing on the forest floor, and that was about it. There weren’t even any rocks around, which is amazing for the Sierra. Luckily, my tent was free standing, and didn’t need rocks to hold it in place like many of the ultralight models. I walked over to the river crossing and checked out the creek. Yes, there were trout in it.

There was enough flat space to camp an army under the pines in Stubblefield Canyon on the PCT — There was enough flat space to camp an army under the pines in Stubblefield Canyon

Stubblefield Creek was flowing mellow - this is the Pacific Crest Trail crossing at mile 984 — Stubblefield Creek was flowing mellow – this is the Pacific Crest Trail crossing at mile 984

Now, in retrospect, I realize that I wasn’t thinking very well that evening, because I should have camped on the far side of the creek. Instead, I doomed myself to a wet-foot crossing in the cold pre-dawn darkness. Ah well, live and learn. At the time, all I cared about was taking a nap on my air mattress inside my cozy tent. And that’s precisely what I did. It wasn’t until afterward that I got up, filtered a gallon of water, and returned to cook my ramen noodle dinner. The powdered Gatorade mix was like dessert, as was the candy corn I munched on.

I set up my tent and filtered some water, then cooked some ramen for dinner, at Stubblefield Canyon — I set up my tent, filtered some water, and cooked some ramen for dinner

Refreshed from the food and rest, I decided that I’d better try fishing now, because it wasn’t going to happen in the morning. Most of the creek was surrounded by hook-snagging bushes, so the fishing would have been “tragic” as Hemingway would say. I found a big downed log and walked out onto it. I held on to one of the leftover branches and cast my fly a few times. It was a bit precarious up there. But eventually I caught the tiniest of Rainbow Trout. It was silly how small it was, but it was a trout, and it counted. I let it spit out the hook by itself, and headed back to the tent.

There was a big log across the river, which I decided to fish from, hopefully without falling off

Small Rainbow Trout that I hooked (and released) in Stubblefield Creek at Pacific Crest Trail mile 984 — Very small Rainbow Trout that I hooked (and released)

I lay down in my sleeping bag and updated my CalTopo Map and my notes. I got out the InReach and texted Vicki about my long day, and then I lay down to read my book as the sun went down.

As the light faded, I continued to hear voices. Too many of them, laughing, and their headlamps flickered on my tent. A group of folks, two dads and three teenage kids, had been hiking just behind me for the last few hours. They were on a weeklong trek from the Twin Lakes in the east, and were heading down to Yosemite Valley. They weren’t PCT hikers, in other words. We passed each other once or twice, but I got here first. Sadly, they pitched their tents less than a hundred feet away, even though there was tons of space. And here it was, fully dark, yet they showed no signs of going to bed. They may have been playing cards, I don’t know. But I needed my sleep. Eventually, I decided that something had to be done. I put on some clothes over my base layer and got out of the tent. I turned on my headlamp, on medium power, and aimed it directly at them. This got their attention. I turned it back to a low red light as I got near. I told them that I had shopped around for a soundproof ultralight tent, but had no luck finding one. The only soundproof models had four walls and double-glazed windows. They laughed at this, but they understood my meaning. I asked them when they would be going to sleep. One of the dads said “Nine o’clock,” to which I replied “Good. Nine o’clock is Hiker Midnight on the PCT. And you’re on the PCT right now. Oh, and if you’d like, I could wake you guys up at Four AM when I get up. I have a very long day tomorrow. Would you like me to do that?” Nobody seemed fond of that idea, veiled threat that it was. I said goodnight, and all was well. I read my Kindle until nine and then it got quiet. I updated my notes to add “ultralight soundproof tent” onto my gear Wish List, and then I fell asleep.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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