Day 28: Devils Postpile to Garnet Lake

From PCT mile 907.9 to 922.0 Total: 13.4 miles 8/4

On Day 28 of my PCT Sierra Section Trek I actually left the PCT entirely, by taking local trails out of Reds Meadow leading directly to the Devils Postpile, then north on the JMT after the spot where the PCT splits off, and remained on the JMT all the way to Garnet Lake. This alternate route is much prettier, thanks to a profusion of lakes and creeks, and particularly the final one, Garnet Lake, with its awesome views of Banner, Ritter, and the Minarets. Totally worth the omission.

I woke up that morning in the PCT Hiker Cabin at Reds Meadow Resort. I had a good sleep on a comfy mattress, but I still woke up early, in the dark, as always. This time, my pack was mostly packed, so all I really had to do was get dressed and eat a pop-tart for breakfast.

Oops! I plugged in the heater in the Reds Meadow Hiker Cabin and it tripped the breaker! So sorry

Just for fun, I decided to try out the small oil-filled heater they provided in the cabin. It worked for about five minutes, and then the power went out! Great, I thought. So I got out my headlamp and looked around, both inside and out, but the circuit breaker was elsewhere. Oh well. I guess that meant that it was time to leave. I double-checked everywhere for missing stuff, then put on my backpack and headed out. This was truly when the second half of my trek began. Donner Pass, here I come!

I headed out at first light from the Reds Meadow PCT Hiker Cabin, north on the Pacific Crest Trail — I headed out at first light from the Reds Meadow PCT Hiker Cabin

Heading out of Reds Meadow Resort before dawn - taking the shortcut directly to the Devils Postpile — I ignored the PCT/JMT and took the shortcut trail, directly to the Devils Postpile

I was the only one up at that hour, hiking via headlamp with only the sky in the east visible. I already made a plan for getting to the Devils Postpile in the most direct manner possible. I didn’t bother going back to the PCT. I had already hiked it with Vicki, back in 2021, and I wasn’t all that impressed. The PCT and JMT both crossed the Middle Fork San Joaquin River two miles below the postpile, then traversed along the western side of the valley. You only got occasional views, mostly through trees, of the postpile to the east. Photos looking east don’t come out well in the morning. Also, I thought the postpile was pretty cool, geologically-speaking, so I wanted to see it up close and personal.

There was a much more direct trail to the Devils Postpile than taking the PCT itself from Reds Meadow — There was a much more direct route to the Devils Postpile, and the PCT doesn’t go there at all

I arrived at the Devils Postpile National Monument border by 6am — I made it to the Devils Postpile National Monument border by 6am

I arrived at the Devils Postpile and began taking photos immediately. I’m only showing two of them here, but there are plenty more at home on my hard drive. I’ve always wondered why a cooling blob of basaltic lava formed (mostly) hexagonal columns like these, and the National Park Service has a good explanation. Now I know why. Thanks, NPS! If you ask me, the scientific descriptions of natural phenomena only make the beauty better. If anything, my face in that selfie I took probably detracts from it! Ha ha!

There was the Devils Postpile towering above me - magnificent! — The basalt columns of the Devils Postpile were towering above me – magnificent!

Selfie taken at the Devils Postpile - the hexagonal basalt posts are up top and the pile is below them — Selfie at the Devils Postpile – the hexagonal basalt posts are up top and the pile is below them

After that, I headed for the arched footbridge over the river. This was the lowest elevation of my day’s hike, and was, at 7600 feet, the lowest spot on the PCT within the “High Sierra” portion of the Sierra Section. I was here so early because I knew I needed to climb higher for cooler air, but I also needed to climb now while the air was still cool. Sounds odd, but I knew that it would be hot down here very soon. So I crossed the river and got ready for a 2200 foot ascent over the next six miles. But that didn’t stop me from trying to catch a Brown Trout in the river with my fly rod. Trying was the operative word. I never even got a bite.

I crossed the footbridge over the Middle Fork San Joaquin River toward the JMT/PCT

View north into the Pumice Flat meadow from the bridge over the Middle Fork San Joaquin River — View north over Pumice Flat meadow from the bridge over the Middle Fork San Joaquin River

A half mile from the bridge, the trail intersected the PCT and JMT, which had been identical since Crabtree Meadow, near Mount Whitney. This junction here was where they split up for the next 14 miles north. I hiked this 28 mile “loop” with Vicki back in 2021, and I already knew that the JMT section was far more scenic than the PCT part. It had more lakes and waterfalls, and that was good enough for a fisherman like me. Just after this junction was the northern border of the rectangular Devils Postpile National Monument. Then the trail began climbing, up along the side of Minaret Creek.

I arrived at the split where the PCT and JMT diverge - I would be hiking the John Muir Trail today — I arrived at the split where the PCT and JMT diverge – I would be hiking the John Muir Trail

Sign showing the boundary between the Devils Postpile National Monument and Inyo National Forest — Boundary marker between the Devils Postpile National Monument and Inyo National Forest

The sun is about to strike me as I climb up above Minaret Falls on the John Muir Trail — The sun was about to strike me as I climbed up above Minaret Falls

When the sun hit me, I was near the junction with the Superior Lake Trail, which I hiked last year, in late Summer when the big snows were still melting, back in 2023. This was also near the spot where Vicki and I camped, next to Minaret Creek. Since I could see Mammoth Mountain to the east, I knew that I would have Verizon cell signal, thanks to their antenna on the summit. I decided to take a short break by calling Vicki, because I wasn’t sure when I might get signal again. We spoke for a while, and both of us felt better. Being a solo hiker isn’t easy when you’ve been married for forty years.

Hiking onward, the trail crossed Minaret Creek, but the old log bridge was broken. Thanks, Winter of 2023! The Far Out app mentioned a way across with dry feet, partly on a log and an island, so I followed the use path. Well, I almost made it. I dunked one foot very briefly in the creek as a rock rolled under me. No harm done.

When I got to Johnston Lake, I realized that fishing it would require me to wade out through a reed bed before I could safely cast a fly. Nah. Knowing my luck, I’d still end up snagging a reed and losing my fly. I hiked on.

Shadow-selfie at the junction with the Superior Lake Trail (which I hiked last year)

Old double-log bridge over Minaret Creek that broke last year during the heavy snows — Old double-log bridge over Minaret Creek that broke in 2023 after the heavy snows

Sunrise light over Johnston Lake on the John Muir Trail — Sunrise light over Johnston Lake – too many reeds along shore to fly fish successfully

I already climbed quite a bit by that time, but it was a mellow grade. After the lake, the JMT split off from the trail up to the Minarets, heading north and uphill in a more serious way. Time to get down to business!

View of the Minarets from below on the John Muir Trail near Minaret Creek — View of the Minarets from below on the JMT near Minaret Creek

Heading uphill out of Minaret Creek on my first big ascent of the day, 1500 feet to go over the next four miles — Heading uphill out of Minaret Creek on my first big ascent of the day

Three miles and 1000 feet later, I arrived up on a wide plateau containing the Trinity Lakes. There were a number of shallow ponds in this region. I looked, but I saw no trout rising, even though my prototype PCT Sierra Trout Fishing Guide plainly stated that there should be Rainbow Trout in there somewhere. Maybe I arrived too late for the morning rise. I even cast my line out, but got nothing in response. Well, you won’t find out unless you try.

Looking east over a very shallow lake along the John Muir Trail, just south of the Trinity Lakes — Looking east over a very shallow lake along the trail, just south of the Trinity Lakes

One of the Trinity Lakes from a nice campsite along the John Muir Trail — One of the Trinity Lakes from a nice campsite along the JMT

The first big climb of the day was over when I crested the saddle before Gladys Lake. I arrived at the lake and there were fine views across the way to the east, towards San Joaquin Mountain and Two Teats (which amazingly hasn’t had its name cancelled by politically correct activists). I heard neighing horses, and eventually discovered a hidden meadow where they were hanging out, plus lots of tracks in the mud around the lake. Then I continued up and over yet another low saddle before a larger descent toward Rosalie Lake.

I began descending toward Gladys Lake after my long 2000 foot ascent - my day was halfway done — I began descending toward Gladys Lake after my long 2000 foot ascent – my day was halfway done

View of Two Teats peak across Gladys Lake along the John Muir Trail north of Devils Postpile — View of Two Teats peak (11,384 ft) across Gladys Lake (9554 ft)

The grass was already brown on the small pass between Gladys and Rosalie Lakes on the JMT — The grass was already brown on the small pass between Gladys and Rosalie Lakes

There were many short switchbacks through a tall pine forest on the way downhill to Rosalie Lake — There were many short switchbacks on the way down to Rosalie Lake

I have to admit that I really liked Rosalie Lake. There was a nice campsite in the trees nearby, and the lake itself was very picturesque. It was also supposed to have Rainbow Trout. Since I was over halfway through today’s hike, I stopped to eat my Pop-Tart lunch as well as attempt some fishing. Well, at least the Pop-Tart got caught. I had one big hit on my fly, but I didn’t hook the fish, and after that there was nothing. I even tried again along the northern shore, where there was deep water below a granite outcropping, but I still got shut out. Oh well.

Rosalie Lake was beautiful and there were some great campsites, too

I decided to try Tenkara fly fishing from these rocks on Rosalie Lake - I got one hit, but that was it — I decided to try Tenkara fly fishing from these rocks on Rosalie Lake – I got one hit, but that was it

I offered some hikers 100 bucks to jump off that cliff into Rosalie Lake, but no one took me up on it

I tried to fish on the northern shore of Rosalie Lake, but didn't even get a hit this time - oh well — I tried to fish on the northern shore of the lake, but didn’t even get a hit this time – oh well

The next bit of excitement was the descent to Shadow Lake. The trail did quite a few short switchbacks as it dropped 700 feet in about a mile, which is pretty steep for the JMT. Luckily, the trail was smooth and cruisey, and I was heading downhill. A big plus.

The JMT climbed up and out of the Rosalie Lake Basin, then began the big descent to Shadow Lake

View of Banner and Ritter from the John Muir Trail north of Rosalie Lake on the John Muir Trail — View of Banner and Ritter from the JMT on the way to Shadow Lake

There was a series of switchbacks leading to Shadow Lake on the John Muir Trail — There was a series of switchbacks leading to Shadow Lake down a steep hillside

Soon enough, I arrived at Shadow Lake (8437 feet elevation). There were camping restrictions all along the shore of this lake, as it was only a day’s hike to get here from local trailheads and had gotten overused in the past. The trail mostly stayed up above the shore in the forest, so it was hard to find a good spot to do some fishing without serious bushwhacking. When I finally found an unobstructed section of shoreline, the lake itself was so shallow that it was pointless to try fishing with a Tenkara rod, which has only a short line. So on I hiked.

Shadow Lake peeked through between the trees as I descended on the John Muir Trail — Shadow Lake peeked through between the trees as I descended

This might have been a spot to try trout fishing in Shadow Lake, but it was way too shallow

The JMT headed uphill once again, along the side of Shadow Creek. There was even a footbridge, as this creek really roars in Spring. In fact, it was roaring quite well, in spots, but there were calm regions, too. Just after the footbridge was one such pool. It didn’t take long before I caught a small Brookie, and then I let it go. Even if I ate trout, this one wouldn’t have been worth the trouble it would take to remove all the tiny bones.

As the John Muir Trail climbed up above Shadow Lake, it continued next to Shadow Creek — As the trail climbed up above Shadow Lake, it continued next to Shadow Creek

Shallow pool where small trout were hanging out - I decided to try catching one of them, and I did! — Shallow pool where small trout were hanging out – I decided to try catching one, and I did!

As the trail got steeper heading upstream, the stream got faster and wilder, as well. It was quite lovely, and I enjoyed hiking uphill even in the heat of the afternoon, thanks to its distracting beauty. Vicki and I are Waterfall Addicts, and I took some extra videos so that she could watch them when I got home.

As the John Muir Trail climbed higher, Shadow Creek became a rushing torrent — As the JMT climbed higher, Shadow Creek became a rushing torrent

Shadow Creek was very loud as it cascaded downhill toward Shadow Lake, along the JMT — Shadow Creek was very loud as it cascaded downhill toward Shadow Lake

Eventually, I realized that my water supply was getting a bit low. All told, I had 1400 feet to climb in the three miles starting at Shadow Lake, and it was getting rather hot. I decided to stop in the shade to filter a liter and a half of water, which I figured would get me to camp, up and over the pass leading to Garnet Lake. I noted that this area was where Vicki and I spent the night on our 2021 hike. Yes, it was true that I was hiking about twice as far per day as Vicki would hike. I already passed two of our campsites since this morning. But that’s just me. Plus, I was now a proper PCT Sierra Hiking Machine, and there was simply no stopping me now.

I stopped to filter a bit more water for the second climb of the day (1300 feet over three miles) — I filtered water for the second climb of the day (1400 feet in 3 miles)

Marshy area of Shadow Creek near where Vicki and I camped, back in 2021

The next incline went by a lot slower than this morning, Hiking Machine or No Hiking Machine. It took me about an hour and a half to hike a thousand feet in two miles, which was kinda sad. But I also wasn’t too worried, as my campsite wouldn’t be much further beyond the high saddle, down at the lake. So on I trudged. I met other hikers trudging along with me. We leap-frogged each other as we alternated rest breaks. Plus, it was one of those sections with False Summits, so right when we thought we were finished, another summit would appear just ahead. Very frustrating. But eventually we all made it to the true summit, of course.

Trail signs showing where the trail to Ediza Lake meets the John Muir Trail

The Minarets, Ritter, and Banner from the JMT as it makes the big climb north of Shadow Creek — The Minarets, Ritter, and Banner from the JMT as it made the big climb north from Shadow Creek

The John Muir Trail climbed steadily out of Shadow Creek on the way to Garnet Lake — The trail climbed steadily out of the valley on the way to Garnet Lake

Somewhere up ahead was the saddle and high point before reaching Garnet Lake on the JMT — Somewhere up ahead was the saddle and high point before reaching the Garnet Lake basin

Distant mountains to the southeast as the northbound JMT climbs up and over to Garnet Lake — Distant mountains to the southeast as the JMT climbed up and over the saddle

Afterward, I decided that the climb was worth the effort, as the views were fantastic from up there. Both north and south. I stopped to take a bunch of photos and panorama videos, of course. Looking at the map, I decided that this pass needed a name. Therefore, with the Power Not Vested In Me, I hereby proclaim this spot be called Garnet Pass, in honor of both Garnet Lake and Garnet Peak (it was on the east ridge of Garnet Peak). Done this day, August 4, 2024. I updated my CalTopo Map to denote this fact.

And then it was time to make my way down to the level of Garnet Lake itself. My plan was to camp on the far side, so there was still some hiking to do. There was also a lot of breeze that afternoon, which was fine for sweaty hikers, but the waters of the lake were anything but smooth, which was sad for photographers. The calm of dawn was the best time, I told myself. And then I hiked down the final 400 feet to the lake. It felt good to go downhill.

There was a small shallow tarn at the top of the saddle just south of Garnet Lake on the JMT — There was a small shallow tarn full of tadpoles and frogs at the top of the saddle

View of Garnet Lake from the John Muir Trail as I arrive on the summit of a long climb — View of Garnet Lake as I arrived on the summit – one of the gems of the High Sierra

The long final switchback toward the Garnet Lake outlet stream on the northbound John Muir Trail — The long final switchback that descended toward the Garnet Lake outlet stream

Zoomed-in view of Ritter and Banner towering over Garnet Lake in afternoon sunshine from the JMT — Zoomed-in view of Ritter and Banner towering over Garnet Lake in the breezy afternoon sunshine

There was yet another “Camping Regulations” sign on the way to the bridge over the outlet stream. It looked like the spot I was hoping to camp in was somewhere near the edge of the Forbidden Zone, which was sad. But I wasn’t there yet. The trail was super-easy once I got to lake level, and it headed for the bridge. I took videos and photos from there, including a selfie, as this was one of the better viewpoints in the High Sierra. Banner and Ritter were towering over the western end of the lake, and it was truly a majestic sight.

There were camping restrictions near the mouths of both Garnet Lake and Thousand Island Lake

I finished descending to Garnet Lake on the John Muir Trail - now to find a proper campsite — I finished descending to Garnet Lake on the John Muir Trail – now to find a proper campsite

The log bridge over the outflow creek from Garnet Lake where the John Muir Trail crosses — The log bridge over the outflow creek from Garnet Lake where the JMT crosses

Selfie-shot of me, Garnet Lake, Mount Ritter, and Banner Peak on the John Muir Trail — Selfie-shot of me, Garnet Lake, Mount Ritter, and Banner Peak

Now it was time to find a campsite in earnest. I hiked along the shore until I reached a small, pointy peninsula. A family with two kids managed to sneak ahead of me earlier when I stopped to take pictures, and I was worried that they’d get the “good” spots. Even though mostly every spot with these views was far better than a mere “Good” rating.

It had been a very long hiking day, as I headed to find a legal campsite along Garnet Lake on the JMT — It had been a very long hiking day, as I headed to find a legal campsite along Garnet Lake

View back toward the outlet of Garnet Lake on the John Muir Trail — View back toward the outlet of Garnet Lake as I climbed over a small ridge

Peninsula near my campsite where I filtered water and did a bit of fly fishing on Garnet Lake — Peninsula near my campsite where I filtered water and did a bit of fly fishing

I was pretty sure that the peninsula itself was within (but near) the border of the naughty zone, so I found a campsite up above the shore within some low pines. This was a well-used spot, and it followed LNT principles, even if it wasn’t quite legal. Regardless, my feet had had more than enough hiking for one day! After filtering a gallon of water, and trying some fishing in a much-too-windy lake, I retired to the air mattress in my tent.

My tent nestled out of the wind in some pines at Garnet Lake on the John Muir Trail — My tent nestled out of the wind in some pines above the lake near the edge of the forbidden zone

Cooking my usual Ramen Noodle dinner in the vestibule of my tent while sitting on my air mattress

I ate my noodle dinner, drank some Gatorade, and munched on some salty chips while reading a book on my Kindle. Then I updated my notes and sent a satellite text to Vicki. I ended up going to sleep before sunset as tomorrow was planned to be a full fifteen mile day, and I would be climbing over Donohue Pass in Yosemite National Park. I set my alarm for 3am and headed off to sleep. It had been a long day with lots of climbing, and I was ready for some serious rest.

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

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