From PCT mile 706.5 to 717.2 Total: 11.2 miles 5/29
On my fifth day in the Sierra I hiked from Kennedy Meadows to the “Swallow Bridge” over the South Fork Kern River, where I spent the night with a fun group of PCT Thru-Hikers.
After yesterday’s easy day, plus going to sleep early, I woke up early as well. Today was also planned to be an easy day at 11 miles, but at least it was going to climb two thousand feet, so I wouldn’t feel too much like a wimp. The real reason my day was short was so that I could camp next to the arched bridge over the river. It was a popular spot for hikers after resupplying at Kennedy Meadows. I wanted to socialize a bit. That’s one of the best parts about hiking the PCT, after all. The Scenery, the Challenge, and the People. Not necessarily in that order.
The first two miles of my day were spent gradually climbing upstream along the South Fork Kern River. This was designated as a “Wild and Scenic River” due to the excellent trout fishing that it provided. Sadly, I left my fly rod at home, as I figured that the current would be too strong. But I was wrong. Live and learn. I wouldn’t make that mistake again!
Soon, I arrived at the sturdy bridge where the trail crossed to the western side. Vicki and I hiked here in the opposite direction back in 2020, on our final day of a 42 mile section hike. That was a dry year, and the flow was much lower then. It looked just fine now, as there was still a considerable amount of snow melting rapidly, up near its headwaters.
The river continued north into a deep gorge while the PCT went along an easier path. Oh, it still climbed, to the tune of a couple thousand feet, but making a trail along the riverside may have been too daunting a task for the original trail crews. Why blast through solid granite when you can hack out a smooth trail with shovels in dirt? And I wasn’t complaining, as this trail was smooth and cruisey. The first stop was Crag Creek, where I filtered several liters of water.
There was a really nice campsite just north of the creek crossing, and that was where I had planned to camp under my original plan, before the Trail Magic and Kennedy Meadows Grill filled my belly and left me with extra food. Now I was able to spend an additional night in the Sierra! But I didn’t get to camp right here. I remembered this place from last time. Oh well.
I waved to the folks still packing up in the campsite and continued onward, up the valley along Crag Creek. Up ahead on the left was Crag Peak (9484 feet elevation). The trail followed the creek all the way to a broad saddle. I decided that this saddle deserved a name. By the powers not vested in me, I hereby declare its name to be Crag Pass, at an elevation of 8084 feet. And it sure felt good to climb it!
North of Crag Pass, the trail descended into Beck Meadow, a wide expanse of low scrub. It was probably full of grass once upon a time, but not now. There were still a number of dried cow patties here and there along the trail. The forest service is known for renting out the grazing rights to local ranchers. In fact, there was a private inholding just across the meadow from the trail. There were a couple of trucks and buildings there, but I saw neither people nor cows.
The trail then headed uphill along the side of Deer Mountain, and crossed the ridge to the northeast. I got a great view of distant Mount Langley, a mighty fourteener which was totally coated in snow. My son and I climbed it back in 2015, but the PCT wouldn’t be getting close enough for me to try it again this year. Olancha Peak was also up ahead, and much closer. I would be hiking over its western shoulder tomorrow.
I continued hiking, and when I crested the ridge I saw Monache Meadow spread out before me, with the South Fork of the Kern winding along placidly down below. Beautiful. And now I’m about to subject you to a ridiculous number of photos and videos of the arched metal bridge over the river. I loved this last time I was here, and I still love it now. So if you hate bridges and birds and scenery, scroll by it as fast as possible!
Video of swallows flying. Their nests are made of dried mud, built underneath the bridge itself.
Of course, I also had to document crossing the bridge, using my new GoPro 11 camera. The wide angle view can be disconcerting, perspective-wise, but it certainly takes in everything.
It was just past noon when I arrived, so I decided to snag the best camping spot. I hardly ever get to do this. It was a good feeling as I walked around the hillside above the bridge, contemplating my myriad choices. In the end, I chose one of the higher spots, a flat platform beneath the trees. Countless happy campers had slept there. I left my pack to claim the site, and would set up my tent later on.
I grabbed some lunch and headed back down to the river. I loved watching the swallows flying in the breeze beneath the bridge. I also got to meet a number of thru-hikers. In the early afternoon, they mostly continued onward. But some even stopped to take a swim in the river. They swore that the water wasn’t cold, but I knew better. I decided to stay dry and warm instead.
Later in the afternoon, the hikers that left Kennedy Meadows later in the day arrived, intending to camp here. One hiker had some fishing line and a hook wrapped around his hiking stick. He caught a cricket in the grass and used it as bait. It didn’t take long before he caught a good sized trout. Supposedly, the trout in this river are Golden/Rainbow Hybrids, and his looked the part. When dinnertime arrived, he built a fire and got out some aluminum foil and olive oil for the gutted fish. There was an old metal grill at the fireplace and he set it on top to cook. Soon enough, he and his girlfriend were enjoying a proper Sierra Supper.
The fire brought everyone around to hang out and socialize. As a veteran Sierra backpacker, my advice was sought out in regard to the snow conditions and what to do when they reached the damaged/missing bridge over the San Joaquin River. The “official” approved way was to re-route around it, but that meant missing Muir Pass and Evolution Valley. I told them to take the unapproved up-and-over bypass route as this was too beautiful an area to miss. But I wasn’t worried. They would meet plenty more hikers heading southbound soon enough, replete with the latest Trail Gossip. Meanwhile, enjoying the High Sierra was the most important thing. I also told them that I was heading home for three weeks to let the snow finish melting, but they didn’t have that option as they were heading all the way to Canada. I was only hiking 500 miles total.
The thru-hikers settled into their sleeping bags, Cowboy-Style. That used to be called Sleeping Under the Stars, but Cowboy Camping was the latest term, so I will stick with it here. I wasn’t planning to DO it, of course. I’d rather stay inside a tent. Tents give you the illusion that you are safe from wild animals like bears and cougars, just like ducking under the blankets at home wards you from the Monster Under the Bed. But it certainly protects you from mosquitos. Those hadn’t really started yet, but I predicted that all of us would know far more about them than we wanted to in the weeks ahead. Meanwhile, I kept my screens zipped up tight, and slept soundly. I knew that the bears would eat the Cowboy Campers first.
For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page
For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page
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