Day 18: Sierra Pelona and Leona Divide

On my eighteenth day on the PCT, I climbed up and over the Sierra Pelona range, down into Bouquet Canyon as well as Spunky Canyon, then up again onto the Leona Divide, for a fifteen mile hiking day in the Angeles National Forest.

From PCT mile 459.6 to 474.2 Total: 14.6 miles 4/24

I woke up early, in the dark, as usual.  This happens when you fall asleep before sunset.  I cooked my oatmeal and ate it while sitting in the tent, wearing my goose down jacket and pants.  Very warm and comfy.  Then I started packing in earnest.  It always takes longer than you think to get ready when backpacking, but my timing was great.  I had quite a bit of climbing to do, and getting it done before the sun started roasting me was part of my plan.

I woke up early on the saddle and was thankful that it hadn't been windy overnight - time to hike!
I woke up early on the saddle and was thankful that it hadn’t been windy overnight – time to hike!

The Sierra Pelona Range was partially within the rain shadow of the San Gabriel Mountains, so it wasn’t heavily forested, and was predominantly covered in chaparral and grasses.  This year, 2023, was a happy year to be grassy.  The seedheads were exceptionally tall, and  they were still in the process of ripening.  They waved in the breeze and hung over the trail.  If I wasn’t wearing long pants they probably would have been tickling my thighs, they were so high.  Luckily for me, it wasn’t breezy where I camped, but as I climbed, the breeze grew stronger.  I passed by a couple of tents that were shaking in the gusts, and I was thankful that I didn’t have to put away my tent under windy conditions, which is always a challenge.

GoPro pic of the PCT near mile 461 as I climb upward through long Spring grass - easy hiking but uphill
GoPro pic of the PCT near mile 461 as I climbed upward through long Spring grass – easy hiking but uphill
Mount Gleason and Agua Dulce in the distance and long PCT switchbacks through green hills below me
Mount Gleason and Agua Dulce in the distance and long PCT switchbacks through green hills below me
Selfie with tall Grasses north of Agua Dulce as I continued my first long climb of the day
Selfie with tall Grasses as I continued my first long climb of the day

The sun was out with clear blue skies as I made it to the top of the Sierra Pelona.  There were dirt roads up there and obvious signs of motocross and ATV use.  It was a Monday morning when I arrived, and all was peaceful.  In fact, there was a tent pitched just off the road, and no sign of the occupant.  Was I the only early riser out here? Don’t these silly hikers realize that they were Burning Daylight?  I guess not.  They probably resort to hiking into the evening twilight every day before setting up camp.  Oh well.  To each his/her own.  Meanwhile, I continued onward, along and eventually over the top of the ridge.

I reached the top of the ridge at PCT mile 463 and crossed the Sierra Pelona Motorway, Forest Road 6N07
I reached the ridgetop and crossed the Sierra Pelona Motorway, Forest Road 6N07
No wheels or motors allowed on the PCT, but there were tracks where idiots bypassed these barriers
No wheels or motors allowed on the PCT, but there were tracks where idiots bypassed these barriers

Using the Far Out app, I chose “Piped Bear Spring” to be my primary water source for the day.  I figure that springs come out of the ground and therefore don’t really require filtering like surface water always does, because they don’t get contaminated with human and animal waste.   Sadly, piped Bear Spring had so much water in it that there were lots of small particulates coming out of the pipe.  Which I didn’t notice until they were in my gallon water jug, naturally.  What a mess!  I had to dump it out, rinse it with my remaining pure water, then use my filter.  Which immediately clogged, of course.  I won’t go on much longer, but it took me forever to clean the filter and clog it again, over and over and over, before I finally collected enough water.  I was even more annoyed when I passed a perfectly clear stream a quarter  of a mile later.  Arrggh!  I left a warning comment in the Far Out app to this effect.

The north side of the Sierra Pelona Ridge was very green and had pretty oaks and shade, at PCT mile 463
The north side of the Sierra Pelona Ridge was very green and had pretty oaks and shade,, at PCT mile 463
I filled up on water at Piped Bear Spring but there was crud in the water and it almost clogged my filter
I filled up on water at Piped Bear Spring but there was crud in the water and it repeatedly clogged my filter

After that fiasco, the trail continued pleasantly downward into Bouquet Canyon.  This part of the PCT seemed to consist of  crossing ridges, which always meant descending into valleys.  Up and Down.  This sounds worse than it is, because the PCT tended to have a very mellow grade, not more than ten percent, so my hiking speed stayed up.

View northeast at Bouquet Canyon Road as I descended into the valley
View northeast at Bouquet Canyon Road as I descended into the valley
Trail sign at Bouquet Canyon Road, at Pacific Crest Trail mile 466, where I heard about some Trail Magic
Trail sign at Bouquet Canyon Road, at Pacific Crest Trail mile 466, where I heard about some Trail Magic

As I neared the valley floor, another hiker told me to keep an eye out for some trail magic just across the road, which was easy to miss with all the vigorous plant growth this year.  He was right, and I was happy.  There was an actual chair to rest on, in the shade of a huge oak tree.  Plus, there was a half bottle of soda and some granola bars in a chest.  Thanks, trail angel!  I took a break down there and read my book.  The day was warming up and I had another ridge to climb over.

It was hot, so sitting down in the chair and taking off my shoes was a relief, plus Trail Magic in the chest!
It was hot, so sitting down in the chair and taking off my shoes was a relief, plus Trail Magic in the chest!
Taking a break in the chair near Bouquet Canyon Road, PCT mile 466, and the Trail Magic was great, too!
I took a boot-off break in the chair near Bouquet Canyon Road

Then it was time to check out the Leona Divide, which was roughly a thousand foot climb.  Nothing terrible, in other words.  My map said that the PCT would meander along this divide for many miles, and I would be camping on the south side of it later on.  This was very dry country, and there were very few trees.  Naturally, this meant that there was also no shade.  Oh well.  I drank my hard-earned water and carried on.  The views improved along the way, and soon I was looking down on the Bouquet Reservoir, which was impressive this year.  This big pond is used by LA as a backup source in case something temporarily glitches upstream on the Los Angeles Aqueduct.  Yes, that aqueduct, the giant pipe that takes water from the Eastern Sierra Nevada and Owens Valley.  Tomorrow I would be hiking over Grass Mountain, and the aqueduct itself would be somewhere down below me in a dark tunnel, as the water headed south, bound for LA.

Powerlines crossed the Leona Divide near Pacific Crest Trail mile 468
Powerlines crossed the Leona Divide near PCT mile 468
View southwest toward the Bouquet Reservoir and Dam, from high on the Leona Divide
View southwest toward the Bouquet Reservoir and Dam, from high on the Leona Divide

Soon enough, I crested the ridge and Spunky Canyon was before me.  What a name!  I liked it already.  But there wasn’t much happening down there, just a road or two, and the PCT.  After crossing the road, the trail began to climb once again.  Luckily, by this time I was almost at my planned campsite.

I crossed the Leona Divide and looked down into Spunky Canyon, from Pacific Crest Trail mile 470
I crossed the Leona Divide and looked down into Spunky Canyon, from PCT mile 470
View back down into Spunky Canyon from PCT mile 474 as I neared my proposed campsite
View back down into Spunky Canyon from PCT mile 474 as I neared my proposed campsite

When I arrived, thru hiker Monk was there.  He had just acquired his new trail name.  I told him that it suited him perfectly, and he liked that very much.  He had read in the Far Out app that there were better campsites up on top of a nearby knob, so he said so long and climbed up top to check it out.  As for me, well, no need to invade his privacy, I figured, so I set up my tent next to a bush that might give me some late afternoon shade.  And it did.

It wasn't breezy, but it was still hot, so I tucked my tent next to a shady bush at Pacific Crest Trail mile 474
It wasn’t breezy, but it was still hot, so I tucked my tent next to a shady bush on a saddle north of Spunky Canyon

It was still early enough that I simply hung out in the tent for a while.  That’s the trouble with getting up early.  You get into camp early, too.  Or maybe that’s the good thing about getting up early.  Anyway, I read my book and almost dozed off.  That’s when I decided to cook up my ramen noodles.  If I was going to nod off, let it be for the entire night.  I read my Kindle while I ate, and sent out a text to Vicki using my InReach, as there was no cell signal here.  Spunky Canyon doesn’t get a lot of love from Verizon, I guess.  Meanwhile, Monk never came back down, so I figured he was happy up there.  And so was I.  Another day on the PCT, and another fifteen miles completed.

 

 

For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page

For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page

 

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